Showing all 11 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 10th Nov 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ The Reckoning-half 终审判决第一段 (The Reckoning) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Relatively short. Managed to get a kneebar rest before the 0.5 section and then punched it through the final finger crack.
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Sun 10th Nov 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Through the Looking Glass | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Found it hard to warm up on. Was fun to it again to practice 0.75s
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Sat 9th Nov 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Was good to get back on it. Noticed I moved more efficiently on the jams.
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5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice warm up
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Wed 6th Nov 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.11+ | ★★★ Back to the Primitive | 180m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pitch 1 was short warm up, it was pretty average climbing. At the top of the pitch you reach a terrace where you can walk to the right for 5m for the start of the 2nd pitch. The 2nd pitch was awesome. Started balancy with small gear then a ledge for a rest before the hard fingers. There was no easing into it, it was straight in there and got harder the higher you get. You reach a "jug" but still have some hard moves before you are home. I ended up falling after pumping out on the jug. Got it 2nd try. Abby lead pitch 3 & 4 which I thought was harder than 5.10. The 5th pitch was awesome fun, cool balancy traverse after a chimney that you can't fall into. The last section of the pitch ends with a sting with a short section of fingers. The 6th pitch was the aid pitch. The bolts are spaced far apart. I found that I used a 60cm sling for foot loop, went it hard to the bolt with a quick draw and then stood up high like you would high stepping when aid climbing worked well. The 7th pitch was harder than it looks. The flakes were a mixture of lay backing and jamming. The final pitch was exciting, slabby. We got lost trying to follow the descent in the guide. Ended up just following a track all the way right to the end of the wall and down the gully at the end via a track with switchbacks. The gear beta in the guidebook was spot on!
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Mon 28th Oct 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Morass | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice warm up
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5.10 | ★★ Dancing with Dragons | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky sections where the crack narrows down to 0.75
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5.10+ | ★★ Faraway Corner | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
So so good! Bouldery traverse to establish the crack and then rest half way.
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Mon 21st Oct 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 | 25m | ||||
Forgot how painful crack climbing is on the feet =P
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5.11 | ★★★ Gore | |||||
This was short but super fun! Steep moves on solid jams
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Mon 21st Oct 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Screaming at the Moon | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty cool first pitch but loved the second pitch with sections of secure offwidthing!
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Showing all 11 ascents.