Ascents in Croatia having Beta

Fun day out, some dude gave us cold beers at the top of the mountain. Nice

Easy to get lost if you try to follow the 2017-19 topo with only photos. 5-6 has no bolts but can be done together with a 60m rope. The chimney is very nice at the end.

On the first 5 pitches, if you need trad gear, you are lost.

Till 5th length found only 2 belay stations. Many bolts along the route. We didn’t belay, just climbed tied with rope 6-7m to each other. At 5th station we left the route and descent to Bjela rampa (after going down you have to walk up a little bit)

bitte Friends mitnehmen. 1. SL eher etwas schwieriger

only climbed the first pitch as there was only a single bolt as first anchor. Didn't want to belay off of that... But the lady from the park administration explained me afterwards that this bolt is drilled much deeper and just as safe as an anchor with chain... anyway the first pitch was fun!

The first pitch is at least a 5c. Super runout by the end of it which might be ok for an experienced and advanced climber but for a 5c climber can be extremely scary. The topo marks it as a sports climb but at certain parts which are relatively hard for the assigned grade the runout is too much to call this a sport climb. I agree with thecrag.com marking this as mixed trad. The Bellamy anchor locations do not match the topo. Take nuts and slings at least. Nevertheless, do not allow these extra challenges to stop you. A great climb. I recommend 😊

First full trad route!

Sehr schöne Verschneidung in der ersten Länge.

First pitch got a very nice slab. After that its mainly ridge climbing.

Second pitch its easy to get lost. Head left and climb till the vertical wall and then traverse right.

Graded French 3 but was an interesting corner crack. Had one bolt on it. Needed to lead first trad pitch on this ridgeline climb.

My partner got sick after the first pitch so we rappeled down but the first pitch was mega classic

i fell because i am retarded

There is one bolt in the first pitch a bit further to the left on the steepest part. We used it, but it caused a lot of unnecessary rope drag. I think it is better to skip it.

Brilliant lay-away moves up a crack =]

Damals 1987 im kommunistischen Jugoslawien noch keine eingebohrte u. benannte Kletterroute, sondern in westlichen Kletterführern lediglich als Nordwestgrat bezeichnet.

Easy climb but with a beautiful view of Anika Kuk and the other side of the valley.👍

Friendly route. many cracks/ fins for gear placement. a lot of bushes and vegetation on the route. decend by small and easy downclimb route at the top behind the bolts (east side), than easy walk around.

#Excellent

Zadnja dužina jako je dobro osigurana,lijepa za penjanje,oprez kod prečke u lijevo,kršljivo.Moguća ocijena 6c/c+

Amazing route if done in a single push all 45m are amazing. Starts with a hard technical slab and than tranfers into a nice crack all the way to the top

Treba 23 kompleta

Amazing route on nice crimps with a good rest in the middle

Meh, not the best car in the lot. I had my backwards hands on big time for this. Only the first section as the top two were 5c doodle.

Continued from Halfmoon.

Nice and long. Two long routes for breakfast and I was feeling worked already. This wall has so many routes all squished in It can be a little tricky to spot where your line goes.... Up

Uporan!

Chiodatura ok

This was one of the first really lines I spotted when I arrived yesterday. Climbs a long red pocked water groove. Sadly it's a little sharp but the climbing is good. Really sustained route with my whole body getting a pump.

I though this was going to be easy.... Nope. Long and sustained pocket pulling. The wall is vert with a few undulations so you have to work on the steeper places.

This looked ard from the ground so a questioned the 7a price tag but signed up for the ride anyway. Yep hard, closer to 7a+ but brilliant pocket pulling with the odd jug so you can compose yourself. One of my favourite routes.

Pitch 1 only - 5b

Traje i traje

SL 1 + SL2

Lijepi smjer

Tricky fingery

long route, beautiful view from the top

Great to climb the local test piece. Didn't find it that bad as its a bolted crack, lots of fun. The layback crux keeps you on your toes.

Mmm warm up... Not quite. The first half is 5b then the extension kicks up straight off the belay. You have to work pretty hard in some of the thin spots but with good foot work and its not to hard.

Pitch 1 only - 5a

nur 1. SL

Last route of the day and last route in Europe Was hoping for a nice warm down but was served a unrelenting pocket groove with many balance moves and hard pulling on shallow pockets. I feel sorry for any 6b leader attempting this beasts.