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Trojúhelník

  • Grade context: UIAA
7
UIAA

Access issues inherited from Czechia

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

Ethic inherited from Czechia

Rules, principles and standards

Rock climbing in the Czech Republic is regulated by the rules, principles and set of standards for individual areas and crags. Please respect local traditions and rules.

Accept and make yourself familiar with:

  • principles of sport climbing (climb with the help of your own strength only, don't use artificial aids, etc.)
  • principles of first ascents and installing fixed protection
  • competence of regional climbing commissions of Czech Mountaineering Association (list)
  • prohibition of creating and chopping holds
  • which type of removable climbing gear is allowed and don't damaging rock (roped knots, slings, ufos vs. friends, wires, hexes, nuts and cams)
  • possibilities of using chalk (strictly prohibited vs. tolerated)
  • restrictions resulting from weather conditions (e.g. prohibition of climbing on wet rock (eventually hours or days after rain or during winter)

Rules:

  1. Rules of climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia (czech)

  2. Rules of climbing in rock areas of the Czech republic (czech)

  3. Rules of climbing in Jizerské hory area (czech)

Routes

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Grade Route

Vlevo na trojúhelníkovém pilíři stěnou přes skobu a dva Bh na vrchol pilíře, libovolně ke slaňáku.

FA: Ladislav Šafránek & Ivoš Lyžbicki, 31 Jan 2015

Nástup přes prstovou spárku k borháku, stěnou přes skobu k druhému bh cesty 'Vracák'. Ten může být slaňovací.

FA: Ivoš Lyžbicky & Ladislav Šafránek, 31 Jan 2015

Jako 'Háček' do výše skoby, zde na pravou horní hranu pilíře, překrok do stěny vpravo a stěnou a spárkou na velkou polici. Jako 'Kontra' ke slanění.

FA: Ladislav Šafránek & Ivoš Lyžbicki, 31 Jan 2015

Historický výstup. Koutem za pravou hranou trojúhelníkového pilíře (skoba), z pilíře dalším koutem doprava.

Mělkým koutem vlevo za hranou od cesty 'Jsou to jen cákalové' asi 5m, krátce vlevo a stěnou v níž je malá koutový výlom na velkou polici. Zleva kolem pařezu ke slanění.

FA: Ladislav Šafránek & Ivoš Lyžbicki, 31 Jan 2015

Vpravo výrazným koutem na polici s akátem a levým koutem na velkou polici. Zprava kolem pařezu ke slanění.

FA: Ladislav Šafránek & Martin Tučka, 26 Dec 2014

Mezi koutem cesty 'Jsou to jen cákalové' a pravou údolní hranou stěnou s úzkou spárou na polici s akátem a stěnou přímo k vlastnímu slaňovacímu Bh.

FA: Ladislav Šafránek & Ivoš Lyžbicki, 31 Jan 2015

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