Ascents in Sarajevská stěna

VIIc/VIIIa SX

My fingers were freezing. Well protected.

At 7th bolt a rain arrived

Einstieg über Dolní varianta

Bouldery start, then easier; with two additional slings for the crack perfectly protected.

My first route in the Saxon grading system. ;-) Wall climbing with good moves in the lower part, followed by an easy crack to a big ledge (1st pitch). The upper part is then dominated by a diagonal offwidth crack, hard for novices in the area. Protection is good. The anchor sits too far to the right, though. Lower-off ring on the opposite side of the plateau.

Ein Traum, bombenfester Sandstein, da rollt nichts. Trotz der Haken ab und zu ein bischen scary. Steht im neuen Topoführer als VIIIb, die Wahrheit liegt wohl irgendwo in der Mitte...