Ascents in Europe by Michael Lehmann

Bouldery

Flash pumped, felt much more mellow second go

A couple laps EOD to get pumped

Preplaced gear, 2 fiddly microwires on a 15m route is bloody bold.

Proud of this send! Pretty bloody dangerous route even with the gear in. We happened to be in the area and the strong boys wanted to sesh it, so we had a few more burns. Got a bucket full of beta and a day to wait for perfect condi's. Actually felt easy in the end, was much more relaxed having had another day on it.

FFA. I spent a couple of days cleaning and working this, trundled lots of teetering blocks that ended up becoming crucial fingerlocks and sidepulls. The moment I finished the prep cloud came with heavy rain. I felt so ready and committed for the route I cracked on anyway. Fortunately the crux holds and gear where dry, second half of the route was a waterfall. 😂 10m of insecure stemming on dripping lichen was tenuous work, what an adventure! Had lots of ground support from the fellas.

Couple of rest days on a rope sussing moves and gear and it went! Rad! Definitely not 6c unless perhaps on the onsight.

Couple of working sessions, it definitely goes! Linked from the ground rope soloing placing gear. Keen to tie in for the redpoint.

Seconding Sev after I down climb retreated from mid height in the roof. Contending with loose rock rattly gear and seep on the lower headwall felt too risky for me. Sev led on the nest of gear I placed low down, cruised the movement lower down finding an easier sequence than I did. He pulled off a microwave size magic block from the roof and trundled several kilos of moss off the top. Otherwise smooth, 15m off good climbing with 10m of sketchy unprotected moss soloing to the top.

Warm up, great!

Very cool problem, improbably perfect pockets with some bold balancey dead points. Easily the highlight of the day!

So many aretes on the torridonian sandstone, not sure which one I did but Sev reckons it's around V5. Hard!

Blew the onsight miss reading the moves over the lip, second go. 😊

Mike's first trad second, great funky, pumpy movement. An easy one to punt off in the sun. Sev soloed it to try find his shirt on the top, which turned up in my bag. 😂

Alternate leads onsight, sev took the harder pitch which ended up being soft for 6b and well protected. I led the 6a pitch which turned out to be quite runout and dangerous. Classic alpine granite, funky movement with spectacular exposure in wild positions! The crux was reading movement with the gardens of moss and lichen on the holds. A stellar day in the mountains!

Blew the onsight after clipping the insitu nut lower down, second go. Probably the most enjoyable climb of the day!

Top is great, bottom is average. Came in from a jug on the left, felt easy at the grade.

Climbed on sev's gear, had a fiddly time replacing the top runner protecting the slab. Crux is getting the gear in, moves weren't too bad.

Seconding Sev, lovely flowy moves with good holds where you need them. Had a bit of assistance from the rope on the lower boulder problem that was balanced out by an unintended crux of the rope almost yarding me out of the next two roofs and traverse

4 more goes falling at the same spot, lacking the compression power endurance I think.

Following sevs proud onsight, crux felt much easier with good beta!

Blew the onsight faffing on the boulder problem down the bottom. Second go, absolutely sensatonal line.

Warm up, dope! Felt like a solo for the first 10m.

Flash go leading on sevs gear, one rest. Promising!

Had a slip going for the first knee bar, got straight back on and finished it. Definitely should have onsighted this.

Warm up, pretty cruisy with the right beta.

Climbed this into the full route, solidifies the grade.

So surprised this went, turns out climbing the bottom direct was V8. The route is basically 3 boulder problems stacked on each other. Very memorable crux at the top.

Laps for fitness.

Burly but a bit soft.

Had a foot slip on the red point, basically one long boulder problem with a decent rest in the middle.

Another session on this, linked more moves and found some spicy beta for the V7 boulder problem at the bottom. Feel pretty unsure about the run out start without a mat, might pre-clip first piece of gear on the red point so i don't cook my ankles if i slip.

Glad I cracked on with this, very intimidating lead. Didnt have the right cam for the break after the crux, felt very run out at the top.

Linked all the moves except boulder problem, not too bad, disconcerting reach in the crux at the top but overall safe route.

Got pumped trying to pull through the crux, post lockdown endurance didn't cut it. got back on after the lead for a couple of laps to build the stamina back up.

Trying to get pumped to keep the endurance up.

First Ascent, didn't bother cleaning. Should have bothered.

Very happy with this send, took a lob off the last move furst time on lead when a foot slipped. Unreal climbing.

This thing is terrifying, first 10m of sustained cruxy climbing is entirely unprotected.

Not sure if I did this correctly, snatchy at the top and quite soft.

Worked all the moves on this, dont have the right cam for protection after the crux. Might die if I tried to lead it.

Had a dry fire off the last mono catching the ledge, glad it's done.

Mates first lead since summer in the uk.

Warm up, love this route.

Friendly E5 tick, saw holds on the way up gnome. Definitely run out and exposed but quite safe for the grade

Mates first E1 in a long time. Great movement through the crux with a bit of exposure.

2nd go, reachy but not bad at all if your long.