Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Aquila Placca dei Maleducati | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Max — 3 attempts - with Chris Stephens, Markus | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Unintuitive slab crux sequence and afterwards, like Alice to the right, a flowy second half
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6a ~6a+ | Grazie lo stesso - with Chris Stephens, Markus | 20m | Average | |||
Meant for this to be a warmup but felt really run out and rather hard
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6b | ★★ Maga magù - with Chris Stephens, Markus | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 31st Mar 2023 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Terminal | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Pook - with Chris Stephens | 35m, 12 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ O'HARE - with Chris Stephens | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Das Plus kommt zum Schluss
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5c | ★★ LOGAN - with Chris Stephens | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a+ | ★ ARLANDA - with Chris Stephens | 17m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Probably the most popular and therefore most polished of the routes in this part of the wall. Still OK.
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6b | ★★ TEMPELHOF - with Chris Stephens | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 29th Mar 2023 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Rocca Carpanea Monte Sordo settore centrale | ||||||
6a+ Hard | ★★ Absidal - with Chris Stephens, Markus | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
6a Hard |
★★ Via Della Marcia P1
- with
Chris Stephens, Markus
1
6a
30m
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | ★★★ Kiki - with Chris Stephens, Markus | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Endurance marathon. Beautiful new route, sharp holds, goes on forever and ever.
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Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle di Rian Cornei Tempio del vento Settore Destro | ||||||
5b | ★★ Via di Marco e Riccardo - with Markus, Chris Stephens | 12m | ||||
5c+ Easy | ★★ Avanporco - with Markus, Chris Stephens | 15m | ||||
Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle di Rian Cornei Tempio del vento Settore Sinistro | ||||||
6a+ ~6b | ★ Neverending dream - with Markus, Chris Stephens | 15m | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ Leben stat ego - with Markus, Chris Stephens | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 19th Mar 2023 - Oberösterreichisches Ennstal | ||||||
Burgfels Untere Wand | ||||||
7 ~7+ | ★★ Karl — 3 attempts - with Chris Stephens | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Should be 7+ when compared to the other 7s here. Crux at the end.
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6 | ★★★ Ramazotti - with Chris Stephens | 24m | ||||
Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Traunsee | ||||||
Rindbachtal Weiße Platte | ||||||
6b | ★★ Much Money - with Markus | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
6a | ★★ Steinbruch - with Markus | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Champ Elysse - with Markus | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Sciusa Bric Reseghe Meraviglia | ||||||
6a | ★★ Sotto la pioggia - with Chris Stephens | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5b+ | ★ Un papavero per Ema - with Chris Stephens | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Sciusa Bric Reseghe Eden | ||||||
6b+ Easy | ★★ Chronologie — 2 attempts - with Chris Stephens | 23m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Very inhomogeneous: Short crux at the beginning that is hard to onsight, then 5a slab.
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Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Sciusa Bric Reseghe Simon & Elias | ||||||
6c ~6b+ | ★★ Le mogli di chi arrampica - with Chris Stephens | 21m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 27th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Aquila Placca dei Maleducati | ||||||
6a | ★★ Il falchetto picchietto e il mangiatore di mosche - with Chris Stephens | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic route that is fair for the grade compared to e.g. the nearby Fuga. Recommended warmup in this crag!
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6a+ | ★★ Materia grigia - with Chris Stephens | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Exit is hard to onsight for the grade! Took too long at non obvious move at end. When I found it, the move was easy so I didn't bother going for the rp...
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6c | ★★★ A cà de Alice - with Chris Stephens | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Overhang confusion
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6c | ★★★ A cà de Alice - with Chris Stephens | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Strenuous, long and very interesting. RP crux at the overhang, then endurance and focus along the upper wall. Maybe my favourite route in the finale area.
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Wed 26th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Rocca Carpanea Parete Dimenticata | ||||||
6a | ★★ Friends | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 26th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Rocca Carpanea Grotta dell'Edera | ||||||
6b | ★★★ Bombolo | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
6b+ | ★★ Shokada | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 25th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia della coccinella | ||||||
6b | ★ Marco - with Chris Stephens | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | ★ Marco - with Chris Stephens | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | ★ Marco - with Chris Stephens | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | ★ Marco - with Chris Stephens | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bouldery. Hard grade, even for finale. At least 6b+ I think.
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6a+ | ★ Il pensatore - with Chris Stephens | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5c | ★★ Vogue - with Chris Stephens | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 24th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Rocca Carpanea Le Tecchie | ||||||
5c | ★★ Bomber for president - with Chris Stephens | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | ★★ Isallo city - with Chris Stephens | 15m | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ A Star in the Night - with Chris Stephens | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 22nd Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Arene Candide Falesia delle cento corde | ||||||
5a | ★★ I marguapapà - with Chris Stephens | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
6b | ★★ Krubera - with Chris Stephens | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
6a | ★ Supermanzo - with Chris Stephens | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5b | ★ Acceleratore di sacramenti - with Chris Stephens | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 21st Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Aquila Placca dei Maleducati | ||||||
6a | ★★ Fuga di mezzogiorno - with Chris Stephens | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6b | Dimensione panza - with Chris Stephens | 18m | ||||
Technically an onsight but went so far to the left that it made the crux a lot easier. Beautiful route until the crux.
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Thu 20th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Boragni Skarafonia | ||||||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Il Salto dell'Acciuga - with Chris Stephens | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Couldn't quite solve sequence on two-finger pockets
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Thu 20th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Boragni Falesia della Luna | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lost - with Chris Stephens | 14m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5c | ★★ Ugo petuso - with Chris Stephens | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | ★★ Delphinus - with Chris Stephens | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 19th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Rocca Carpanea Bric Scimarco Settore Superiore | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Il brutto anatroccolo - with Chris Stephens | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
6b+ | ★★★ Il brutto anatroccolo - with Chris Stephens | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
6a | ★★ L'inviata speciale - with Chris Stephens | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5c | ★★ Petit four - with Chris Stephens | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 17th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia Gorilla | ||||||
5c+ | ★ Maramao | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5c | Genesi | 12m, 7 | Average | |||
Hard for an easy warmup
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6a+ | ★★ Tasmania - with Chris Stephens | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Could be the most interesting route in the crag
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6a+ | ★★ Cyclops - with Chris Stephens | 22m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
I checked 3 topos that list this as 6a+ or 6b, the sketches all match, but it feels like a 5b. Probably the softest grade I've ever experienced.
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Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Oberösterreichisches Ennstal | ||||||
Burgfels Obere Wand | ||||||
6- | ★★ Na schau - with Chris Stephens, Markus | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Used the left top
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7- | ★★ Taschendieb - with Chris Stephens, Markus | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
8- | ★★ Burgspiele - with Chris Stephens, Markus | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Used far-left beta at the upper slab crux (Nico Braun hold for resting), not fully sure if that's intended, but probably didn't make the route a lot easier.
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Sat 24th Sep 2022 - Oberösterreichisches Ennstal | ||||||
Burgfels Obere Wand | ||||||
8- | ★★ Burgspiele - with Chris Stephens | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 24th Sep 2022 - Oberösterreichisches Ennstal | ||||||
Burgfels Untere Wand | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Schnappt Shorty - with Chris Stephens | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
7 | ★★ Leon - with Chris Stephens | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 24th Sep 2022 - Oberösterreichisches Ennstal | ||||||
Burgfels Obere Wand | ||||||
7- | ★ Schottischer Blues - with Chris Stephens | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 3rd Sep 2022 - Dörnbach | ||||||
Linker Sektor | ||||||
8- | ★★★ Griff in Sicht | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 3rd Sep 2022 - Dörnbach | ||||||
Rechter Sektor | ||||||
7- | ★★ Stehaufmanderl | 10m, 5 | ||||
7- | ★★ Stehaufmanderl | 10m, 5 | ||||
6- | ★ Die alte Route | 7m | ||||
6- 5- | ★ Ohne Moos ist was los | 7m | ||||
5 4+ | ★★ Der heisse Draht | 10m | ||||
Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Steinplatte | ||||||
Waidringer Steinplatte St. Johanner Minipalven | ||||||
5c | ★★★ Track - with Markus | 14m | ||||
5c+ | ★ Lila Power - with Markus | 15m | ||||
6c 6b | ★★ shaky-time - with Markus | 15m | ||||
Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Steinplatte | ||||||
Waidringer Steinplatte Wintergarten | ||||||
6 5c | Teamwork - with Markus | 25m | ||||
6a | Wadlbeisser - with Markus | 12m | ||||
6a+ | ??? - with Markus | 12m | ||||
Ca. 4 grades tougher than the 6a next to it...
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6b+ | ★★ Böses Krokodil - with Markus | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b+ | ★★ Böses Krokodil - with Markus | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 13th Aug 2022 - Steinplatte | ||||||
Waidringer Steinplatte St. Johanner Palven | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Bienenstich - with Markus | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Mönch | ||||||
Parlament | ||||||
5 | Head & Shoulder - with Markus | Average | ||||
4+ | Rot - with Markus | 12m | Average | |||
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Mönch | ||||||
Nord-Wand | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Nordpfeiler - with Markus | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Mönch | ||||||
Puchbergers Klassenzimmer | ||||||
5+ 5+/6- | ★★ Da Masta und seine Gsön - with Markus | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6+ | ★★★ Sommerferien - with Markus | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 25th Jun 2022 - Waxenberg | ||||||
Traumpfeiler | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Kraftprobe - with Markus | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Hard to tell how far left/right one should climb the overhang. I'm not sure I didn't make it easier but I'm not really interested in trying again...
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Sat 25th Jun 2022 - Waxenberg | ||||||
Münchhausen | ||||||
7 | ★ RGK - with Markus | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One hang, have all the moves now
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5 | ★★ Zwerglein Variante - with Markus | 20m, 6 | ||||
6+ | ★★ Nur net schummeln - with Markus | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
7 | ★ RGK - with Markus | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 19th Jun 2022 - Oberösterreichisches Ennstal | ||||||
Schieferstein Hacker Nordwand | ||||||
6- | ★ Django - with Markus | 20m | Average | |||
Strange, inconstistent
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6 | Steinzeit Junior - with Markus | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Really nice warmup
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7+ | ★★★ Best Family - with Markus | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
7+ | ★★★ Best Family - with Markus | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful, but the crux target hold is hard to find, difficult to work out (well above the last bolt) and requires a lot of commitment. 2nd go was close but couldn't stick it. Will come back when it's less than 33 degrees heat...
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7 | Orangenhaut - with Markus | 20m | ||||
I find it hard to describe how much I hate this type of low-angle slab. Did I mention it's a traverse? Hard to clean? So much fun...
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Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Oberösterreichisches Ennstal | ||||||
Sauzahn SO-Seite unterer Teil | ||||||
7- | ★★ Im Biergarten ist's schöner | 20m | ||||
Too tired. Crossed into luftikus and called it a day
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Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Oberösterreichisches Ennstal | ||||||
Sauzahn SO-Seite oberer Teil | ||||||
7- 7-/7 | ★ Last but not least | 15m | Average | |||
Bouldery. Top is far left of the route, not ideal.
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Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Oberösterreichisches Ennstal | ||||||
Sauzahn Transvertikal | ||||||
7- | ★★ Transvertikal | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7- | ★★ Transvertikal | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very tough for the grade...
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6 | ★★ Falkenweg | 20m | ★★ Very Good |