Ascents in Europe by Kai

Fun little iron ladder. Vertical to slightly overhanging at the end. Secured the kids with a rope from a bolt on top of the rock.

Free climbed all easy parts that felt save enough. It's quite scary if the next anchor of the via ferrata is some meters below so I used the iron ladders in the difficult sections.

Nice but very short via ferrata. Beginners will have to deal with their fear at the airy spots.

Fun fact: had to remove the hang tag from the via ferrata set I own for a long time. The tag states: "in compliance with the DAV safety recommendations from 2012" So finally used it before end of life

I don't understand why we need those via ferrate. Of course it is nice to climb something in absence of a partner but free climbing is so much more fun and less dangerous.

BTW: Right of the via ferrata a good looking slab waits for some bolts

Forth and back

Not macht erfinderisch. Große Halle gesperrt und in der Linie keine Exen. Zum Glück hatte ich welche dabei.

Just for the sake of completeness we wanted to ascent this route but we didn't find it. While searching the route we climbed the very right arete that ends with a small pillar. Pro was possible at the start of the pillar, 10m above ground. Overall difficulty around 4.

Second route from Heinz Grill. You need a lot of endurance for some of the pitches and especially the last pitch is a last challenge for the leader.

Very nice!. First route of Heinz Grill.

Classic route. If you start early no sun!

To scared in the first pitch. Bad weather.

Nice dihedral. Some run outs in easy terrain. Did it in 3 hours.

The descent is a mess. The way via the main summit is quite scary and dangerous. The two other possible descents are not better. We decided to traverse through the top region of the southface. Then we climbed a ramp without any protection to reach the ridge again. Luckily before others crossed our way but unfortunately still not at the main summit. The hole summit region is very loose and you have to watch every step and hold.

It took us 9 hours because we didn't take the correct route on the band in middle of the face. I think we climbed the band in the route 'La luna e i falo' which offered us a difficult slab (UIAA 7) in the 7th pitch. Seconding it I aided it but Felix send it. Overall it was great. Especially the upper part of the route is classic!

Both pitches in one try.

Good but very dirty holes.

Because of the polished start of the route one of my feet slipped away and I fall. So no onsight ascent for this one.

#afterwork

Continuation after the first half of 'Ruckzuck'.

Needs some gardening ;-) Used second bolt, rest trad only. #afterwork

What a shame. Failed again at the crux between the 2nd and 3rd piton. And why? Three guesses. Of course, the feet weren't in place again. I didn't do any better the rest of the way. It wasn't my day.

Viel zu schmutzig.

heute hat es mich nicht gewundert dass ich reinsitzen musste. Ist fast beruhigend dass ich es noch nie geschafft habe

First time I got on this classic. First I thought, oh well protected - looks like a plaisir climb - but then I failed at the crux between second and third bolt. Found the important crimpy side pull after some attempts. Quite tricky and hard for me. Because Sonnendeck didn't want to second the route to cleanup I used the last bolt of the route to lower down. The belay is at least 5m left of the start, so cleaning the route descending through that anchor will be hard work.

Does anyone climb the second pitch of this route? I suppose not. Georg Hermann should we place an additional lower off anchor to ease climbing of the first pitch?

Well, the crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Very technical moves at bad side pulls. The essential holds are at a tiny and hidden flake. Put the left hand at very top of the flake to have the space to match it with the right hand. Then sort your feet to reach the good undercling/side-pull with the left hand. That's it. Continue the flake and stand up on the pillar...

With regards to the guidebook this route is supposed to be a classic, but I would say it is just a very good historical route because for the interesting part from a sport climbing point of view, it would need a new lower off anchor so that you do not have to climb to the historic stance. This is only worthwhile for adventurers.

First ascended in 1955 the line chooses the easiest access to the crack-dihedral 5m above ground. Then follows the crack until it gets overhanging and heads to left onto a ledge. Around the corner further left is the stance to start into the easy second and last pitch. Reaching the stance was quite tricky as the hazelnut bush has spread again. Subsequent rope teams should think about bringing a saw and hedge trimmer. There is also plenty of work for a gardener on the second pitch. The second pitch is protected by one bolt only (5m above the belay) and it follows an easy dihedral to the top of the rock.

The view from the top is quite rewarding. Don't forget the Gipfelbier

Exit in the dark. It's nice how quiet the Däle is when there are no more vehicles on the road. Therefore it is worth taking the headlamp with you.

#warmup