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Nodes in Le Cardinal

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Node
Le Cardinal

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Gendarme du Cardinal

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Gendarme du Cardinal
6a Voie Armand Marley
  1. Pass the rimaye/bergschrund as best you can. Cross to the right in turns and steps. Cairns. R1(2 bolts) on a spur with a good terrace. Direct descent to the glacier in 45m.

  2. Nice 45m crack line. R2 on 2 bolts.

  3. One bolt above to protect a wide crack. 48m. R3 near the couloir on 2 bolts.

  4. Easy slabs then oblique on the left towards a small roof. 48m

  5. Straight up. Delicate rock at the beginning. A bolt with cord on the right to protect the reta. Then easy after the piton. 48m R5 on 2 bolts.

  6. In slight upward direction to the left, 1 piton. 45m. R6 on a cord at the foot of the beautiful Dupin.

  7. Splendid red rock quite steep. 2 pitons at the bottom. Intermediate belay possible on bequet. Then a slight right crossing, 1 bolt to reach the top of the Gendarme. Descent to R6 in a big abseil of 50m.

Note
Possibility of access to the Cardinal summit (Voie Allain): From R6 cross down to the right, cross the corridor and go up towards a piton. Slightly to the right above, steep in good rock (5a/b). 48m. Relay on 1 spit and 1 piton. Then 45m by easy slabs in 4/4+ towards beautiful red grooves (beginning of the Voie Allain).

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