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Description
It could be considered as the perl of the Calanque: The climbing is excellent and the location is spectacular. And this makes it also very crowded, for climbers and not. During the week end the beach is full of people, so the climbing routes. About protection, most routes are recently renewed, but it's a good idea to bring a set of nuts and maybe a few small cams.
Access issues inherited from France
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
Approach
There are two approaches to En Vau and both require a bit of hiking.
One option is to park at Port Miou (or surrounding) and take the GR98 trail (60 min). Parking is not easy due to the crowd, expecially on weekends.
The second option is to park on route D559, which runs between Cassis and Marseille and follow the red/white trail, about a 90-minute walk. You can no longer park at Col de la Gardiole (as old guidebook claim), making this much longer than it used to be!
Ethic inherited from France
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Association Les Grimpeurs
Date: 2020
This bilingual English/French guidebook is the digital version of the guidebook Climbing in the Calanques edited by the CT FFME Bouches-du-Rhône (the local branch of the French climbing federation) It presents a large selection of climbing routes in the Calanques including sports crags and many sectors of multi-pitch routes. It was designed respecting several criteria: provide a description of the Calanques that is as thorough as possible, meet climbers’ expectations and preferences, and arouse interest in all types of climbing. The routes are drawn on photos, the accesses are described precisely and are illustrated with maps. Finally, for each cliff, approach time is indicated as well as the length of rope required, aspect, number of routes, the average difficulty, and the range of grades. This guidebook is published by the CT FFME of the Bouches du Rhône. It participates directly to the maintenance of the crags in the region. The content of the guidebook is detailed in the OmegaRoc app.
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Author(s): André Bernard, Gilles Bernard, Gwenaël Drouot, and Hervé Guigliarelli
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9791090796256
A comprehensive guidebook describing the rock climbing and sport climbing in the Calanques National Park, covering around 2,000 routes.
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Author(s): Thierry Souchard
Date: 2017
ISBN: 9782952638876
A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.
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Nicolas Poibeau at Grande Aiguille - Grande Aiguille
Doigt de Dieu - The doigt de dieu seen from the beach of En Vau
Thu 27 Jul
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