Routes in Orpierre

Some grips/steps have a thin layer of mortar as anti-skid.

Easy and consistent Route. Second to last pitch can be climbed with a left loop, then also 5b. Last pitch either free then 6a or 5b A0. 15 quickdrraws for second to last pitch.

The higher the more difficult. Few grips slightly polished.

L1/5a 10 bolts L2/5b L3/5a

6 short pitches, so you can make it a 5 or 4 pitches route; combining 3a with 5a is too long for a 60m single rope and causes strong rope friction. Communicating is easy. Good grip. The first meters are amongst the most difficult, so a good test whether you can manage the rest. The crossing (L3) has bolts every 2m. L1 has 6 bolts, L2 12, L3 8, L4 5, L5 3, L6 11.

L1/4c 11 bolts L2/5a

L1/5b+ 12 bolts. In the wall, rusty threads and bright areas create the impression bolts have been removed by intention - L1's lower part "Violence et passion" seems to be merged into "Andre Aline Shoot", L1's upper part merged in the other direction.

L2/6a

L1/5c+ L2/6b+

The upper half goes left, above the overhung part of the wall.

At the right edge of the waterfall.

Few grips/steps have a thin layer of mortar as anti-skid.

L1/5b+ L2/5b+

Last pitch easier to traverse left and then straight up. Alternatively straight up 6a+ or A0 and a short 5b pitch to the top.

L1/4b 12 bolts, L2/5b

L1/4a 12bolts, L2/5b 7bolts

After 2nd bolt, very polished - for climbers that are less than approximately 1.80m and cannot reach the 3rd bolt using e.g. 'panic quickdraws', a fall will end on a rock ledge.

1st pitch 5a, 25m, 9 bolts. 2nd pitch 6a, 13m, 8 bolts. Can be climbed as one pitch with an 80m rope.

L1/5b L2/5a