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Ascents in Erzgebirge by Melwin Quacke

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Showing all 100 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Date
Trad
6+ ★★ Kir Royal - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 25m, 7 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★ Very Good Tue 29th Aug 2017
stunning finish

  
7+ ★★ Henckel trocken - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 25m, 7 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★ Very Good Tue 29th Aug 2017
laybacking is easier than it looks

  
6 6- ★★ Startrampe - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 32m, 6 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★★ Classic Tue 29th Aug 2017
Start somewhat tricky, the rest real plaisir.

  
6 ★★★ Gelübde - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 65m, 6 Katzensteingebiet ★★★ Classic Wed 30th Aug 2017
Beautiful long route. Crux is in the first 10 m.

  1. Begehung
  
6+ ★★ Sonne & Schnee - with Melwin Quacke Mixed trad 20m, 6 Auersberggebiet ★★ Very Good Thu 6th Aug 2020
lots of stemming

  
8- ★★★ Luftbrücke - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 20m, 5 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★ Very Good Tue 29th Aug 2017
reached the anchors from the right, which was 7-. Straight up seemed very reachy.

  
7- ★★ Teufelsriss - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 22m, 5 Auersberggebiet ★★★ Mega Classic Thu 6th Aug 2020
hard start, beautiful balance riddles

  
6+ 6 ★ Feierabend - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 5 Müglitztal ★ Good Wed 25th Aug 2021
some lichens at the base, but better the higher you get

  
6 6- ★★ Talweg - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 25m, 4 Katzensteingebiet ★★ Very Good Tue 29th Aug 2017
6- ★★ Mittelweg - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 42m, 4 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★ Very Good Sat 1st Aug 2020
Quite a sweatfest on a sunny summer day, but the "anchors" feature a bench under a shady oak. Unintentionally used the final moves of Blitzriss.

  
6+ 6 ★★ M50 - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 15m, 4 Auersberggebiet ★★ Very Good Thu 6th Aug 2020
classic crack line

  
★★ Foothook - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 22m, 3 Greifensteine ★★ Very Good Mon 3rd Aug 2020
reachy

  
6 Aufiie Hoans - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 20m, 3 Auersberggebiet Average Thu 6th Aug 2020
nice moves, but dirty. Bring extra pro

  
6+ ★★★ Ostkante Direktausstieg - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 30m, 2 Katzensteingebiet ★★★ Classic Fri 8th Sep 2017
Started with Direkte Ostkante: sketchy start till ring bolt. Mid-sized stopper helps.

  
6- V ★★ Fichtenwand - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 22m, 2 Greifensteine ★★ Very Good Sun 2nd Aug 2020
harder than it looks

  
★★ Intermezzo - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 20m, 2 Greifensteine ★★ Very Good Mon 3rd Aug 2020
reachy past the roof

  
6- Hard ★★★ Schmale Wand - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 18m, 2 Auersberggebiet ★★★ Classic Tue 18th Jul 2023
Solid rock, not too sharp. Consistent grade. Some Trad pro recommended.

  
6 ★★ Weisse Verschneidung - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 20m, 1 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★ Very Good Sat 1st Aug 2020
just started from the ledge, but this upper part was quite nice.

  
6+ VIIc ★★ Toter Riss Direkteinstieg - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 24m, 1 Greifensteine ★ Good Mon 3rd Aug 2020
Don't slip at the first moves - your fingers might get stuck in the splinter crack.

  
6- ★ Talweg - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 1 Auersberggebiet ★ Good Fri 7th Aug 2020
well-protectable and reasonably clean until bolt, then mossy but easier.

  
I Hard ★ Alter Weg - with Lina, Lewin Mixed trad 1 Dippoldiswalder Heide ★ Good Sun 9th Apr 2023
5+ ★ Talkante - with Danilo Hondo Trad 14m Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★ Good Sun 2nd Aug 2020
4+ IV ★★★ Stirnkante - with Danilo Hondo Trad 17m Greifensteine ★★ Very Good Sun 2nd Aug 2020
5- V ★★ Dickes Ende - with Danilo Hondo Trad 17m Greifensteine ★★★ Classic Mon 3rd Aug 2020
Alter Weg - with Danilo Hondo Trad 17m Greifensteine Don't Bother Mon 3rd Aug 2020
wet and mossy

  
6- ★ Geisterweg - with Danilo Hondo Trad 18m Auersberggebiet ★ Good Fri 7th Aug 2020
clean except for final moves, rather bring stoppers than cams.

  
II ★ Künstlicher Weg - with Lina, Lewin Trad Dippoldiswalder Heide ★ Good Sun 9th Apr 2023
3 Alter Weg Trad Auersberggebiet Don't Bother Fri 7th Aug 2020
Pulling three large mossy handholds to vegetated summit, harder than it looks.

  
2 Alter Weg - with Danilo Hondo Trad Auersberggebiet Average Sun 16th Jul 2023
Crumbly with lots of sharp crystals.

  
Sport
7 ★★ Don't Panic (Don't panik) - with Danilo Hondo Sport 18m, 7 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★ Very Good Sat 1st Aug 2020
4+ ★ Blumenmann - with Danilo Hondo Sport 18m, 7 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★ Very Good Sat 1st Aug 2020
lose block After 4th bolt

  
7- 6+ ★★ Hagelverschneidung Abendvariante - with Danilo Hondo Sport 30m, 7 Auersberggebiet ★★★ Classic Wed 5th Aug 2020
very versatile climbing. Don't fear the apparent runout to the bolt under the roof - there are large holds. Tricky balance moves out of the crack into the slab and past the bulge, the latter well protected.

  
6+ ★ Freie Fahrt - with Danilo Hondo Sport 20m, 7 Auersberggebiet ★ Good Fri 7th Aug 2020
vegetated and sharp crystals. Probably V, until crux arete between bolt 6 and 7. No anchor, use pine for belay or walk off.

  
7- 6+ ★★ Midnight Lady - with Danilo Hondo Sport 7 Müglitztal ★★ Very Good Wed 25th Aug 2021
very homogeneous and well protected; interesting finishing moves

  
6+ ★ Wer kennt die Regeln? - with Danilo Hondo Sport 7 Auersberggebiet ★ Good Mon 17th Jul 2023
Some loose stuff on the ledges, wear a helmet.

  
6+ 7- ★★ Loreley - with Danilo Hondo Sport 18m, 6 Müglitztal ★ Good Mon 5th Jun 2017
nice crimper and slab moves

  
7- ★★ Tanz der Vampire - with Danilo Hondo Sport 18m, 6 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★ Good Sat 1st Aug 2020
reachy

  
6+ ★ Na wie jetzt? - with Danilo Hondo Sport 18m, 6 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★ Very Good Sat 1st Aug 2020
6- ★ Fingerblues - with Danilo Hondo Sport 17m, 6 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★ Good Sat 1st Aug 2020
many lichens

  
VIIIa 7- ★★ Kaffeepause - with Danilo Hondo Sport 18m, 6 Auersberggebiet ★★ Very Good Tue 4th Aug 2020
Start harder than it looks. the crack is enjoyable and easy to climb.

  
6 ★ Naturlehrpfad - with Danilo Hondo Sport 28m, 6 Auersberggebiet ★★ Very Good Wed 5th Aug 2020
tricky move past first bulge

  
7 ★ Skyline - with Danilo Hondo Sport 6 Auersberggebiet ★ Good Sun 16th Jul 2023
The further right you go, the harder it gets.

  
6+ ★ Super Nova - with Danilo Hondo Sport 6 Auersberggebiet ★ Good Sun 16th Jul 2023
5+ 5 Freundschaftsweg - with Melwin Quacke Sport 27m, 5 Freiberger Mulde- und Bobritzschtal Average Sat 6th Jun 2015
a stopper between 1st and 2nd bolt might be nice

  
4- ★★ Lange Kante - with Danilo Hondo Sport 45m, 5 Müglitztal ★ Good Mon 5th Jun 2017
almost alpine flavour

  
6+ 7- ★★ Südafrika - with Danilo Hondo Sport 20m, 5 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★ Very Good Mon 28th Aug 2017
6 ★ Privato - with Danilo Hondo Sport 17m, 5 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★ Good Tue 29th Aug 2017
6+ 7- ★★ Fernblick - with Danilo Hondo Sport 19m, 5 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★★ Classic Tue 29th Aug 2017
no trad pro necessary

  
7- ★★ Tränen lügen nicht - with Danilo Hondo Sport 30m, 5 Katzensteingebiet ★★ Very Good Fri 8th Sep 2017
~43. Begehung

  
6 ★ Zwergnase - with Danilo Hondo Sport 17m, 5 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★ Good Sat 1st Aug 2020
reachy after 3rd bolt

  
6 ★ Lachendes Pferd - with Danilo Hondo Sport 18m, 5 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★ Very Good Sat 1st Aug 2020
many lichens

  
6+ ★ Foothook - with Danilo Hondo Sport 18m, 5 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★★ Very Good Sat 1st Aug 2020
tricky slab moves

  
VIIIa 7- ★★ Sonnenplatte - with Danilo Hondo Sport 18m, 5 Auersberggebiet ★★ Very Good Tue 4th Aug 2020
interesting move to clip the first bolt, then easier. From last bolt before ledge, interesting balance move.

  
6+ ★★★ Harz Baby - with Melwin Quacke Sport 20m, 5 Auersberggebiet ★★★ Classic Thu 6th Aug 2020
clean rock, very entertaining.

  
7+ Ohne Moos nix los - with Danilo Hondo Sport 5 Auersberggebiet Average Fri 7th Aug 2020
requires cleaning. Small stopper can protect clipping the first bolt. Hard to reach second bolt.

  
6+ 6 ★ Eumelvariante - with Danilo Hondo Sport 5 Müglitztal ★ Good Wed 25th Aug 2021
place at stopper before the first bolt to protect the lower crux

  
6 Hard ★★ Für Knab und Knecht - with Danilo Hondo Sport 5 Auersberggebiet ★★ Very Good Sun 16th Jul 2023
7+ ★ Schmusekätzchen - with Danilo Hondo Sport 30m, 4 Katzensteingebiet Don't Bother Fri 8th Sep 2017
damp, dirty and hard. Not wandering off route (edge, dihedral) requires lots of will power.

  1. Begehung
  
6- ★ Schatzsuche - with Danilo Hondo Sport 18m, 4 Katzensteingebiet Average Thu 31st Aug 2017
slightly crispy in the upper half, no decent placements.

  
7+ ★ Direkte Goldader - with Danilo Hondo Sport 20m, 4 Katzensteingebiet ★ Good Thu 31st Aug 2017
x. Begehung

  
4 Versteckter Weg - with Danilo Hondo Sport 14m, 4 Wolkensteiner Gebiet Average Sat 1st Aug 2020
crumbly on top

  
7- Magnet - with Danilo Hondo Sport 10m, 4 Auersberggebiet Average Tue 4th Aug 2020
exit dirty and mossy

  
5+ Tag der NVA - with Danilo Hondo Sport 8m, 4 Auersberggebiet ★ Good Wed 5th Aug 2020
sharp crystals

  
7 ★★★ Führungswechsel - with Melwin Quacke Sport 20m, 4 Auersberggebiet ★★★ Classic Thu 6th Aug 2020
reachy clip at first roof, cool moves, bring extra pro for final roof

  
6+ ★★ Kombination - with Danilo Hondo Sport 20m, 4 Müglitztal ★ Good Wed 25th Aug 2021
somewhat vegetated at the end

  
6+ ★★ Südostkante - with Danilo Hondo Sport 4 Müglitztal ★★ Very Good Wed 25th Aug 2021
sketchy start, bring some stopper or cam

  
6+ ★ M&M - with Danilo hondo Sport 4 Auersberggebiet ★ Good Sun 16th Jul 2023
6+ ★ Kleinod - with Danilo Hondo Sport 12m, 4 Auersberggebiet ★ Good Tue 18th Jul 2023
6 6- ★ Frühlingsgefühle - with Danilo Hondo Sport 20m, 3 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★ Good Mon 28th Aug 2017
7- Fight of the Religions - with Danilo Hondo Sport 17m, 3 Wolkensteiner Gebiet Average Tue 29th Aug 2017
pumpier than it looks

  
6 6+ ★★ Schöner Weg - with Danilo Hondo Sport 20m, 3 Katzensteingebiet ★★ Very Good Tue 29th Aug 2017
6- ★ Kaffeepause - with Danilo Hondo Sport 12m, 3 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★ Good Sat 1st Aug 2020
6- ★ Dany Sahne - with Danilo Hondo Sport 13m, 3 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★ Good Sun 2nd Aug 2020
nice moves, but dirty

  
6- Gelobtes Land - with Danilo Hondo Sport 8m, 3 Auersberggebiet Don't Bother Tue 4th Aug 2020
6+ Fluchriss - with Danilo Hondo Sport 8m, 3 Auersberggebiet Average Wed 5th Aug 2020
7- ★ Vater-Sohn-Kante - with Danilo Hondo Sport 8m, 3 Auersberggebiet Average Wed 5th Aug 2020
Very defined: without grabbing the right-hand edge, it is harder than 7-.

  
7- ★★ Büropfoten - with Danilo Hondo Sport 3 Auersberggebiet ★ Good Wed 5th Aug 2020
bailed out at last bolt hard, being too hard to clip for this grade and slightly off right.

  
7 ★ Herbstsolo - with Danilo Hondo Sport 3 Müglitztal ★ Good Wed 25th Aug 2021
single move crux, very defined: don't use right side of flake where the second bolt is

  
7- Langzeitstudie - with Danilo Hondo Sport 15m, 3 Auersberggebiet Average Sun 16th Jul 2023
Short power moves, needs cleaning beforehand.

  
5 ★ Schlampe - with Danilo hondo Sport 3 Auersberggebiet ★ Good Sun 16th Jul 2023
Somewhat dusty, but mostly solid. Almost goes clean.

  
6+ Croissant - with Danilo Hondo Sport 9m, 3 Auersberggebiet Mon 17th Jul 2023
5 ★ Nordwestpfeiler, AW - with Danilo Hondo Sport 9m, 3 Auersberggebiet ★ Good Mon 17th Jul 2023
Somewhat inconvenient for the last one to get down below the anchors.

  
4+ Kurtis Verschneidung - with Danilo Hondo Sport 12m, 2 Wolkensteiner Gebiet ★ Good Sat 1st Aug 2020
5 5- Altes Eisen - with Danilo Hondo Sport 7m, 2 Auersberggebiet Don't Bother Tue 4th Aug 2020
6- Stilles Wasser - with Danilo Hondo Sport 8m, 2 Auersberggebiet Average Mon 17th Jul 2023
7+ ★★ Leni - with Danilo Hondo Sport 30m Auersberggebiet ★★ Very Good Wed 5th Aug 2020
some lichens, but not too bad, technical

  
8- ★★★ Jannik - with Danilo Hondo Sport 30m Auersberggebiet ★★★ Mega Classic Wed 5th Aug 2020
Impressive route. Thank-god leg-jam just below the lid of the roof. Watch out, the crux handhold (flake after edge of roof) makes unnerving noise - don't rip it off!

  
6+ ★★ Westwand - with Danilo Hondo Sport Auersberggebiet ★★ Very Good Wed 5th Aug 2020
Somewhat polished holds. Not that straightforward between first and second bolt - at least at 28°C.

  
7 ★ Pfeilerwegsche - with Melwin Quacke Sport 20m Auersberggebiet Don't Bother Thu 6th Aug 2020
we found this dirty and greasy halfway up, so bailed out.

  
7- ★★★ Kreuz der Jungfrau direkt - with Danilo Hondo Sport 22m Auersberggebiet ★★★ Classic Thu 6th Aug 2020
direct start is not that hard and straightforward.

  
6+ 6 ★ Hab ich nicht gewusst - with Danilo Hondo Sport 20m Auersberggebiet ★ Good Sat 8th Aug 2020
crumbly at top

  
6 6+ ★ Aktion Froschfelsen - with Danilo Hondo Sport 18m Auersberggebiet ★ Good Sat 8th Aug 2020
crumbly at top

  
7+ 7- ★★ Plaisir - with Danilo Hondo Sport Müglitztal ★★ Very Good Wed 25th Aug 2021
technical moves

  
7- ~7- Schinderhannes - with Danilo Hondo Sport Auersberggebiet Don't Bother Mon 17th Jul 2023
Dirty, crumbly, sharp, vegetated, hard.

  
7+ ★ Schokoladenseite - with Danilo Hondo Sport Auersberggebiet ★ Good Mon 17th Jul 2023
Nice moves, not overprotected. Crux is getting to flake.

  
Boulder
2A ★★★ Rißspur Boulder Dippoldiswalder Heide ★★ Very Good Sun 9th Apr 2023
2B Ausstiegsproblem Boulder Dippoldiswalder Heide Sun 9th Apr 2023
2B ★ Cracky Boulder Dippoldiswalder Heide Sun 9th Apr 2023
4A Solo for one Boulder Dippoldiswalder Heide Sun 9th Apr 2023
3A ★ Alter Boulder Boulder Dippoldiswalder Heide Sun 9th Apr 2023

Showing all 100 ascents.

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