Ascents in Altmühltal

Poliert. Macht nicht wirklich viel Spaß mehr.

Der erste Teil ist einfach nur glatt. Macht kein Spaß mehr.

Nice climbing on finger pockets, including quite a few monos. Onsight up to the crux, for which I needed a few tries. Sent it in my second try with a high right foot, which enabled me to reach the good mono statically.

Sadly messed up the onsight in the upper part, one bolt before the anchor. Very nice route.

I found a beta which works for me this time. For reference: after taking the two good holds as a pinch with the right hand and clipping, go to the large sloping pocket with the left. Swap feet on the small edge (potentially go with right hand into left jug undercling, in the left hold through which the sling is threaded) and put left foot into good half-moon which is hard to see from above. With the right, take the sloping pocket on the upper right as a gaston, put right foot into jug (again the left hold with the sling). With the left hand, take the left (long oval-shaped) pocket on the left side as a sidecling, almost like a gaston. Put the right hand into the right sloping pocket (where it already was, but in a different position) further in, into a small ridge on the right (three fingers fit into the pocket in total). The thumb can take a small dent so you can pinch the hold. Left foot up onto the very polished foothold. Then a far move to the pocket on the left, quickly bring in right foot onto the black small edge, right hip in, up to sidecling, position left hand such that you can hold the left hold on the good upper right part as an undercling. And don't forget to use this pocket as a foothold for the right foot later.

Seems very cool, but is also quite hard. Polished pockets and footholds made me feel like I was constantly sliding off the wall.

Für große schwerer unten

Quite hard, as expected. I skipped lots of moves in the initial part already (supposed to be a hard 9) because I wanted to be quick. At the crux, the foot holds were better than expected but I never managed to reach all the way up into the small pocket, I always just scratched the rock immediately below it. Even the last part (supposed to be 8) is not so easy, involving laybacking with almost non-existent footholds (there seems to be an alternative beta without laybacking), and then pocket climbing, again in an otherwise very smooth wall. I might try again in two or three years if I reach the required level.

I found this one quite hard in the onsight. You also have to place some nuts, which adds a mental aspect. The cruxes are protected by bolts.

I could not climb the slabby crux. The start is a traverse at the lip of an overhang which I somehow did in my second try on toprope. My beta was not optimal, however. I was so pumped after this part that I could only recover once I reached a no-hand rest further up in the slab. After the initial hard start, some fun and easier climbing leads to the main crux. From a relatively big hole which is very slopey on the bottom (but better as an undercling), you can either try going left or a bit to the right and traverse left further up. On the left, the hard part is to get your feet high enough to be able to really use the left hole as an undercling to its full potential. On the right, I could get my left foot up into the big hole, but did not manage to bring my full weight onto it. After the crux, the climbing is a bit easier, but there are still quite a few hard moves without very good rests.

Super schöne Tour. Schlüsselstelle ist am 3ten Haken. Links hat man zwei Löcher die man am besten als Zange nimmt. Links auf die obere kleine Leiste greifen und dann den linken Fuß hoch in das kleine Loch mittig unter der Exe anschließend sehr schnell ren rechten Fuß ganz hoch auf den riesigen guten Tritt. Outside flag mit dem linken Fuß hinter das rechte Bein nachdem man mit rechts hochgegriffen in das kleine Loch unter den auffälligen abschüssigen Löchern. dann mit links kreuzen ins nächste Loch. Das ist gut. Nächstes mal nochmal rein 😊😊😊

komischer Kamin

Super schöne Tour, oben dann rechts an die Leisten. Im Vorstieg ist mir das zu creepy. Sonst wäre die Tour ein Klassiker