Ascents in Leykauf Gedenkwand

Another route here, unfortunately, where the protection is quite stupid. The second bolt is placed out of reach just above a hollow, chossy flake, and clipping it isn't exactly easy even if you trust the rock, so if you fail, you're back on the ground again. On the way to the third bolt, I broke off a seemingly solid foothold and fell off. Had a hard time finding a way to clip the third bolt, which is again too high, but no longer dangerous. I bailed after reaching that bolt and seeing that the most important hold afterwards was total choss. The climbing itself is actually quite good, but the rock quality and protection didn't let me enjoy it enough to get to the top.

Cool layback moves, then slightly athletic to the no-hand rest and then easy exit (probably a bit harder if you go directly to the anchor through the overhang).

#warmup

#takedownbitch :-D

Cool moves on a big undercling flake in the lower part, then the logical line unfortunately leads you very close to the left neighbour, just to move away to the right again. Crux for me was just after the piton where the route merges with "Rote Gefahr", it looks a bit like a hold broke here a while ago.

Did not try the crux moves on the last few metres, but the rest is fun bouldery climbing on crimps and then bigger holds. Sometimes wide reaching is necessary to get the next hold, but did not feel too far away, even for a small person like me.

Fits my style of climbing quite well. Vertical in good rock, good moves, and some rest positions. I already "knew" the last few meters from the route to the right, but again made the same mistakes and almost fell off before the last bolt; there's an anchor at the very top, so do yourself the favour and enjoy the view!

Quite close to the classic dihedral, but a worthwhile climb if you stick to the line. Not especially homogeneous, since the difficulties start in the last third of the climb, but those few hard meters are quite interesting, with a nice overhanging finish.

Could go on like this for a few hundred meters. Great dihedral. Only two bolts, but lots of good placements (the big crack only takes quite large cams, though, so better take slings for the chocks and smaller nuts). Felt easier than 5+, but I didn't concentrate too much on the difficulty as I was enjoying myself.

Good route next to the dihedral; hard for the grade; lots of small pockets and crimps, interesting moves on underclings.

Really really good. Ridiculous flakes, brilliant hold shapes and phenomenal rock in the upper part. The protection is quite spicy, though (well, I like that, but you know how it is); better not fall off when clipping the second bolt. Shouldn't be a problem, though. But please be careful with the structures, some of them are quite fragile.

Ok, normally I don't mind, but the second bolt here is stupid. You have to do a quite irreversible move to clip it and failing that move or falling before you can clip would bring you back to the ground or lower. Well, actually you could do without the first bolt and put it above the jug rail. Like this, it's better to do "Alp(en)traum" or "Leykauf Gedenkweg" first and put a long sling into the second bolt, if you're not absolutely sure. The climbing itself is also quite demanding. Going slightly left after the third bolt is probably easier (I missed the opportunity) and you can put a nut into the nicely shaped crack there. The diagonal traverse into "Alp(en)traum" is fun!

Quite nice, great line. Had to do some gardening on the first few meters to make it climbable again, probably hasn't seen an ascent in years. The route itself is a crack line that runs out after about 10 meters and culminates in a spicy vertical section with small holds. I'd say it's more like 6 than 6-. The hard section starts before the one and only bolt, so as the name suggests, you should have the morale to trust your gear. The crack is easily protected, and there are some good placements for small nuts before the bolt.

Like for "Moralix", the start was a little overgrown, so I had to do some gardening before being able to climb this. Now the start is okay to climb when dry. Good placement for a pink cam before the first bolt. The line is probably meant to be climbed directly over the slab, but I kept a bit to the left and put a nut into the crack before driving out right to the bolt again. There's a half-rotten sling after the second bolt, which I backed up with a small nut. The actual climbing is good, but the protection somehow invites you to divert from the slab, especially when the lichen hasn't been brushed off the holds beforehand.

Easy start up the mossy ledges, then either chimney moves or directly over the pillar and with some bridging in good rock to the anchor. Lots of vegetation, unfortunately, I removed some of it.

Bürste mitnehmen.

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nur die Crux bis zum 2.Haken ausgecheckt. Undankbar für Kleine.

Richtig gute Kletterei wenn geputzt, aber echt Merkwürdige Hakenplatzierung - zweiter Haken sehr weit und nach der Crux. Schade drumm!

#first_ascent Richtig gute Wandkletterei! Bewertungsvorschlag 7+/8-

Interesting boulder over the bulge with good moves involving high feet. The rest is quite a bit easier, but enjoyable.

rechts oder doch lieber links vom Haken am Wulst?

Absolut gut oben raus. Denke eher die Panta Rhei ist 8+!

#First_ascent Kleingriffig durch das Doppeldächlein und danach auch nicht leicht. Bewertungsvorschlag 9-.

Really good climbing, especially in the upper part. The crux moves are directly at the bulge, but then it's still interesting and sustained.

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