Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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6B+ | ★★ Hiwi | 3m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | ||||
Nice little arête, the first one or two moves are the hardest.
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IXb IXc | ★★ Freischwimmerzeugnis | 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd May 2020 | ||||
Well protected, soft for the grade (IXc).
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6A+ | ★ Goldstaub | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | |||||
Good traverse.. I think. If this is the right route...
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IXb | ★★★ Regenbogen | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd May 2020 | |||||
IXb Nice hand/fist crack and smearing exercise. Stays dry.
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IXb Easy | ★★ !Regulator - with LL | 47m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 4th Jul 2023 | ||||
Epic line all the way.
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IXb Easy | ★★★ Direkter Südpfeiler - with LL | 50m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th May 2024 | ||||
Excellent climbing. Section until 1.R is also well protected. Than pumpy all the way up to 2m after 3.R.
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6A | ★ Fly (Sprung) | 2m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | ||||
Easy to the big hole, which is however worse than it looks as an undercling. For some reason I did the dyno left hand first.
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6A | ★★ Codon - with SV, the gang | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st May 2023 | |||||
#barefoot
Fun overhang with good hands and feet |
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IXa | ★★★ Kreuzweg - with Franta Kaván | 35m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th Jul 2021 | ||||
great route with all features... crag, slab, corner, overhang and delicate finish
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IXa | ★★★ Halb so Wild | 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 25th Apr 2020 | ||||
IXa Crucial sling placement (was blocked by a stone) between 3rd and 4th ring.
Endurance |
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IXa | ★★ Lineal | 55m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | May 2021 | |||||
Pretty ok/easy for the grade ... just keep calm
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IXa | ★★★ Leben in den kleinen Felsen - with Franta Kaván, LL | 18m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th May 2022 | ||||
Quite good slings between the bolts. I’ve climbed on sharp sunlight, not the best idea but hey
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IXa | ★★ Direkter Ostpfeiler - with LL | 50m, 8 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 16th Jun 2022 | ||||
epic route.. highly recommended. Key are slab moves after 7.R - left from R and not direct.
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IXa | ★★ Seelsorge - with Soltar | 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | Wed 28th Apr 2021 | |||||
2.Begehung
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IXa | ★★ Kleine Schelmerei - with Soltar | 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Sep 2021 | ||||
2.Begehung
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IXa | Durchhänger - with Soltar | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 11th Mar 2022 | ||||||
Bis 3.R, zurückgesprungen
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IXa ~VIIIc | ★★★ Traumzeit - with LL | 40m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Jun 2023 | ||||
Must be one of the best routes in Saxony
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5C | ★ Abwärmer SD | 5m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | ||||
Nice line along a diagonal crack. A bit high, but it's easy up top and you can downclimb.
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5C | ★ Anfang SD - with SV and the gang | 3m | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | |||||
Nice, needed a go to find the good holds.
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VIIIc | ★★★ Kachelmann (Kachelmann (RP)) - with Bovist | 42m, 9 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | ||||
Amazing wall climbing with lots of difficult sections. Small comb-shaped structures, slopery sections, shallow underclings, small water drop pockets, friction slab, arête, this route has it all. Had to gather some courage a few times to continue doing difficult and insecure moves far above the rings. The friction slab traverse to the arête in the end almost threw me off, I was so glad when I was standing on the final ledge
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IXa VIIIc | ★★ Perlmutt - with LL | 40m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Jun 2021 | ||||
I've climbed only till chimney start. Very hard at 1.R, IXa IMO. Then VIIc/VIIIa.
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VIIIb VIIIc | ★★★ Knirpelwand Einstiegsvariante - with LL | 80m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Aug 2021 | ||||
Good alternative for reaching the ledge. Be careful under 1.R. 11.Beg.
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VIIIc | ★★ Golden Nugget | 14 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Jun 2020 | ||||
VIIIc First onsight of the route Bad rock and almost no protection before first ring. Afterwards the pro is perfect.
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VIIIc | ★★★ Meridian - with LL | 60m, 8 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | ||||
Epic route. Gorgeous all the way up.
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VIIIc | ★★ Route Zehn - with LL | 43m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
VIIIc | ★★ Abzweig - with Soltar | 30m, 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
70.Begehung
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VIIIc | ★★★ Landkarte - with vilda_hkvdf | 42m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd Sep 2022 | ||||
pure enjoyment
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VIIIb VIIIc | ★★ Fokus - with Alice | 55m, 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Wed 12th Oct 2022 | ||||
Climbed just few meters over 5th ring bolt, then went down. I did not climb the Direkte Südwand finish. In some places a bit brittle material.
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VIIIc Easy | ★★ Verbindungswand - with LL | 35m, 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | ||||
Verbindungswand only, no finish. My excuse is to climb the complete original Renger one day.
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VIIIc Easy | ★★ Gustav Gans - with ZF | 20m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | ||||
42 beg +-
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VIIIc | ★★ Westkante - with LL | 55m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 11th Jun 2023 | ||||
VIIIc ~VIIIb | ★★★ Checkpoint Charly - with PB | 15m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Thu 6th Jul 2023 | ||||
max VIIIb but nice tho
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VIIIc | ★★ Troublemaker - with robert Hahn | 40m, 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Mar 2024 | ||||
zweiter Ring steckt 20 cm zu hoch, das anklettern ist gefährlich.
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VIIIc | Aufschwung - with Fynn, Simon | 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 4th Jun 2023 | |||||
Schwer über den Bauch, mit Aufschlagsgefahr auf der Rampe
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VIIIc Easy | ★★ Fokus - with LL | 55m, 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th May 2024 | ||||
I don't share the hype for this route. It was quite nice but not extraordinary like the ones on Westlicher Feldkopf. A bit brittle and sandy. Quite hard to 1.R and especially from it. Do not miss the finish cracks. Otherwise you didn't climb it ;-)
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5B | ★★ Zecke links | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | ||||||
VIIIb | ★★ Schnurgerade (Schnurgerade (RP)) - with David X | 30m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Thu 13th Aug 2020 | ||||
Brilliant wall climbing in the lower part, homogeneous on iron crimps with the odd boulder move strewn in. Jugs from the third ring on to the top.
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VIIIb | ★★★ Südwestwand (Südwestwand (RP)) | 40m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th Jun 2020 | ||||
VIIIa VIIIb | ★★ Lange Begradigung | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Oct 2020 | |||||
1m right at 2nd ring
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VIIIb | ★★★ Dreierpasch - with Elmo | 55m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th May 2021 | ||||
Spannender Einstieg. Dann immer kurz nach den Ringen schwer
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VIIIb | ★★ Südwand Direktvariante - with LL, Franta Kaván | 80m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Jun 2021 | ||||
One of the best routes I've climbed. Like, ever. Difficult slab moves just before 4.R. Stay calm and work with your feet I went straight from 3rd to 4th; somewhere you can read that its better to go up first and then traverse left. We haven't tried.
#meisterweg
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VIIIb | ★★★ Westwand - with LL | 55m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 3rd Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIIb | ★★★ Gemeinschaftsweg (Gemeinschaftsweg (RP)) - with LL | 70m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 12th Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIIb |
★★ Perle
1
VIIIb
40m
2
VI
40m
| 80m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Jun 2021 | ||||
Difficult at 1.R.. could be more than VIIIb. Exit channel was surprisingly well protected and no issue there.
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VIIIb | ★★★ Säbel direkt (Säbel direkt (RP)) - with Franta Kaván | 40m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th Jul 2021 | ||||
VIIIb | ★★★ Talseite (Talseite (oU)) - with vilda_hkvdf | 47m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 2nd Jun 2021 | ||||
#MW74 Onsight in one go, had to extend 1st and 2nd ring.
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VIIIa VIIIb | ★★ Weg in der Mitte (Weg in der Mitte (RP)) - with LL | 12m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Jul 2021 | ||||
pleasant
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VIIb VIIIb | ★ Lachender Zwerg - with Trylč | 20m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 4th Sep 2021 | ||||
right variant, i would say VIIb
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VIIIb | ★★★ Direkte Westkante - with LL | 80m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 31st Oct 2021 | ||||
VIIIb | ★★★ Reginawand - with Linda | 80m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th May 2022 | ||||
Classic reibung / slab. 5 ring bolts,but nothing else, expect to do tricky moves high above them
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VIIIb | Meister Nadelöhr - with Soltar | 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 3rd Sep 2021 | |||||
63.Begehung
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VIIIb | Denkzettel - with Soltar | 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 9th Oct 2021 | |||||
17.Begehung
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VIIIb | ★★ Arbeitsteilung - Direkteinstieg (Direkte Arbeitsteilung) | 20m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | Tue 11th Jun 2002 | |||||
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VIIIb | Hirschbrunft - with Torsten Schierz | 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 31st Oct 1992 | |||||
etwas kalt 5 Grad
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VIIIb | ★★★ Reginawand - with Torsten Schierz | 80m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 24th Apr 1993 | |||||
Sturz: Hand aufgerissen, sehr schwer
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VIIIb | ★★★ Südwestwand - with Torsten Schierz | 40m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 12th Aug 2000 | |||||
Super Weg
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VIIIb | Freudiges Ereignis (Var. zum Freudigen Ereignis) - with Torsten Schierz | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 25th Sep 1993 | ||||||
am 2. Ring links raus
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VIIIb Easy | Frühstart - with KN | 20m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Sun 9th Apr 2023 | ||||
Grading is unclear and differs between the sources
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VIIIb Easy | ★★ Nachtwächter - with PB | 25m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th May 2023 | ||||
17 Beg.
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VIIIb | ★★★ Birkenvariante - with LL | 80m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th May 2023 | ||||
I can't belive there is no star in Rölkeführer
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VIIIb Easy | ★★★ Direkte Ostwand - with LL | 16m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
a bit dangerous on the start, than excellent climbing and the direct variant is pretty easy for VIIIb
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VIIIb | ★★ Herrenpartie - with ZF | 60m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | ||||
VIIIb Hard | Vierer ohne - with Jana, Franta Kaván, LL | 27m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Sun 18th Jun 2023 | ||||
3rd repeat / 3.Beg
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VIIIb | ★ Volle Talseite - with LL | 60m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Tue 4th Jul 2023 | ||||
Hard moves just below 1.R. Original Talseite is better. The best would be to start from Talseite ledge and follow the edge all the way to the summit. #mw74
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VIIIb | ★★★ Bunte Wand - with Tomáš | 45m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | ||||
This route would deserve Ultra Classic
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VIIIb | ★★★ Säbel direkt - with Fynn, till, Robert Bender | 40m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | ||||
etwas hohl und evtl. brüchig zum 1.R, danach ideales Gestein und allerhand gute Schlingen zum 2.R. Etwas wacklige Hangelkletterrei zu 3.R und Hauptschwierigkeit klar nach und um 3.R. ca. 6h oben gesessen und gesichert. 4. Meister*innenweg
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VIIIb | ★★ Chicken-Run - with LL | 30m, 10 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | ||||
k 8. kruhu, vršek (V) už jsem lezl
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VIIIb Easy | ★ Es könnte eng werden - with Jonas | 20m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | ||||
richtiges plaisir klettern für sächsiche verhältnisse. schön komplexe bewegungen.
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VIIIb Easy | ★★★ Direkte Südwestverschneidung - with LL | 50m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th May 2024 | ||||
Sandy to the 1.R but easy. 1.R should be extended by 2m and the 2.R by a bit as well. Crux from 2.R, than easy again to the original route. Overall very pleasant.
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VIIIa | ★★ !Talseite | 25m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Aug 2009 | ||||
mitn Mirko
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VIIa VIIIa | ★ Gerade Südostkante (Südostkante) - with Bovist | 30m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | ||||
Difficult start (I went up the block with the new ring instead of the small chimney) followed by a vertical section with good holds up to the easy slab at the corner.
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VIIIa | ★★★ Talweg | 80m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 6th Oct 2014 | ||||
Maybe the best route of my cimbing life? a dream came true
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VIIIa | ★★ Talweg (Talweg (RP)) - with thedark | 25m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Aug 2019 | ||||
Steep start with long moves to good holds, powerful crux after the first ring. Beautiful passage afterwards, with good slings and a mix between crack climbing and jugs. The second ring can be clipped relatively early. Runout to the top through a vertical crimper wall with a mediocre sling on the ledge to the right halfway up.
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VIIIa | ★★★ Talweg - with thedark | 45m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Aug 2019 | ||||
Fantastic, long journey in good rock. Good slings before and after the first ring, but pumpy climbing . Delicate passage on crimps and underclings to the third ring, long runout included. Another slightly runout passage through a crimper slab to the ring on the big ledge. I struggled again on the last few meters (good slings beforehand), at a sloper ledge after a juggy overhang.
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VIIIa | ★ Ostwand | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 18th Sep 2020 | ||||
23rd ascent
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VIIIa | Vogelscheuche | 10m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | Mon 21st Jun 2021 | |||||
Begehung Nr. 2
Beste Option auf den Haufen
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VIIIa | ★ Fürs Volk (Fürs Volk (RP)) - with LL | 25m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Tue 6th Jul 2021 | ||||
52.Beg
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VIIIa | ★★ Neuer Talweg Obere Variante - with David X | 40m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th Sep 2021 | ||||
Around 40 meters straight up, first following a crack with good placements for slings (and a fixed sling), to a ring on a small ledge. From there, a few meters of wall climbing on crimps of all varieties to the second ring (hardest moves to the ring, of course), to more crimp moves into slabbier terrain (a bit run out, but it's getting easier with each. move). Decent sling behind a little rib, then good protection at the little roof, which is really fun to climb, and another cool technical section before the topout. Great climb!
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VIIIa | ★ Rentnerblick - with LL | 30m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 26th Mar 2022 | ||||
hard clipping of the 1st
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VIIIa | Hungerkante - with Franta Kaván | 50m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Wed 11th May 2022 | ||||
Recommended if you don't mind brittle and sandy parts. Otherwise not recommended!
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VIIIa | ★ Schartenweg direkt - with LL | 30m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 15th May 2022 | ||||
Tricky
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VIIIa | ★★ Südostkante - with mantra | 30m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th May 2022 | ||||
Felt a tad easier than VIIIa, but fantastic climbing. Steep, but good holds except for a few small sections around the rings. Finished via the overhang a little to the right of the arête, not too hard, but very airy. The first big chicken head doesn't feel too solid, better sling the second one.
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VIIIa | ★★ Schulterschmerzen - with David X | 40m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th May 2022 | ||||
Great wall climbing, straight up in the middle of the wall to the left of the wide chimney. Tricky crack in the beginning, then easier to the big hole (careful, loose blocks lying around in there). A bit sandy, unfortunately, to the ring, then a crimpy wall leads to a short, round crack (small rock tunnel on the right) and up to the second ring on the ledge. Crux is the bulge afterwards, I went a little bit left, then had to traverse to the right again, which was pretty airy. Bomber sling around the big chicken head and a typical finishing overhang with slopers in the very end.
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VIIIa | ★ Nervenflattern - with Soltar | 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | Wed 28th Apr 2021 | |||||
11.Begehung
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VIIIa | ★★ Öffentlichkeitsarbeit | 40m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | Wed 2nd Jun 2021 | |||||
90.Begehung
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VIIIa | ★★ Zauberrücken | 35m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Wed 31st Aug 2022 | ||||
Aufpassen zum 1.Ring, letzte Sicherung nur kurz nach dem Einstieg.
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VIIIa Hard | ★★ Große Reibung - Sonnige Variante - with JN | 38m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Sep 2022 | ||||
Hard for the grade at 1.R (the support place). Not so great to deserve two stars in guidebook.
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VIIIa | Zuckerguss (Zuckerguß) - with Torsten Schierz | Sächsische Schweiz | Thu 24th Sep 1992 | ||||||
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VIIIa | Liebling | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 18th May 2002 | ||||||
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VIIIa | Schneeflöckchen - with Torsten Schierz | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 23rd Oct 1994 | ||||||
gut gesichert
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VIIIa | ★ Direkte Nordwestwand - with Torsten Schierz | 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 3rd Oct 1992 | |||||
direkt hoch VIIIb-c
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VIIIa | Kleine Wand - with Torsten Schierz | Sächsische Schweiz | Thu 21st Jul 1994 | ||||||
schwere VIIIa
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5A | ★ Zecke | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | ||||||
VIIIa | ★★ Frontalangriff - with David X | 45m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | ||||
Marvellous route. Found a good sling placement below the roof, climbed down again to test it. After clipping the ring, I had to come back down again to unclip it, though. Fantastically varied climbing. Powerful over the little roof, then technical climbing to the left of the first ring (felt like the crux to me), easy meters on big holds to the third and fourth ring, crimpfest in black rock diagonally up to the right to the last ring, then straight up to the big ledge and the summit.
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VIIIa Hard | ★ Alte Sache - with LL | 35m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Mon 8th May 2023 | ||||
quite hard!
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VIIIa | Jackpot - with Jana | 25m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Sat 13th May 2023 | ||||
42 Beg
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VIIIa/2 | Nur für Dich - with LL | 25m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Sat 27th May 2023 | ||||
poor material despite it looks quite good from ground
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VIIIa | ★★★ Talseite Mittenvariante - with LL | 70m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
Quite tricky on the start but good protection options. The variant is logical and direct, not much more difficult than original.
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VIIIa ~VIIIb | Letzter Nordwestriss - with LL | 26m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | Don't Bother | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
Hard right on the start, at ring and at the crag end. A lot of sand, not recommended. For few moves I had to use the left-crag from Zufallsweg. But it's one meter away so...
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VIIIa | ★★★ Talweg - with Domča | 80m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | ||||
The first pitch (to 2nd ring) is one of the best climbs I've ever done
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