Ascents in Noúfaro

Also known as 'Le pas facile'. Thought I'd up the ante. Really nice slab (who says that??? But it's true) start then holy s**tsticles batman! Mono undercling, two finger undercling (same finger) and then to top it off... Steep grey slab!!!! Ouchy! First shot was very bolt to bolt on the overhang trying to work out the sequence.

Second shot made a lot of surprising linkage with a workable sequence. Could do all the moves with a bit of gravity assist. Now if I could lose weight and bump up my finger strength, I think I could do it.... Eventually....

Yup it's not 7a!! - pretty inspirational climbing (2)

Such a boulderish short route, this is a 7b/+ route plug a 7c/+ boulder section without any rest in between, a super hard crimp to lock on and still 4-5 hard moves till the last jug, felt twice also from reaching the last hold. This upper crux is by far harder than any of the 8a/+ I have climbed on this island. 6 out of 10 fingers are damaged with skin scratch and bruise, what a bloody fight, exhausting!

I do feel like I am stil developing, which is a really nice thought...

Not sure if this is a project or if it's even a 7c+.... two really really hard moves... or my 6 months off climbing made me really weak. 1st shot I thought it was impossible but 2nd shot, I can now see a full possible sequence. One hold I am unsure if my weak little fat fingers will ever hold but the rest could come together... if I had a lot more time. Still a lot of loose broccoli but once this cleans up a bit more it could be really good.

Project shopping - grade is conservative proposal? climbs well but some hard pulling on small holds - one to get a lot stronger for

Good but a couple of stopper moves (dog and a tr)

Was quite surprised I could even climb today. Was even more surprised that I could do all the moves to the tufa. Had one move I'm not sure whether my hand was just tired from yesterday or if it's just beyond me... the rest was ok. But being that the one move is a bit of a reach problem I'm not keen to come back... yet. The rest was really cool though.

(2) interesting - could actually pull all the moves on a tight tr - would need to refine a lot of beta but not bad - a definitive step up on the other 8’s here

Getting the draws on. I think I pulled on the draw over most moves between 3rd to 6th bolt. What am I thinking?? Definitely a step up!!

worked out pretty much every move. Still needing rope assistance but have a plan

Major linkage!! Wow. Still needing assistance at the (many) crux moves but after thinking this was impossible, it’s now in the realm of possibility. Still can’t work out how I’m going to clip 3 bolts...

Last lap just because it’s cloudy. Pretty done. It’s a bit more bouldery and way more powerful than anything I’ve been on... but I’m not falling apart! Not sure I’ll have time to get fit enough to send before I go, but it’s all good training right?

Getting the draws on.

I think I’m still tired from getting on this the other day....

I don’t have high hopes.

(2) Clean til after 5th bolt - bolt to bolt to anchor

(3) equal high point but much better foot beta and even found a new handhold too

(3) big high point on 2nd, one fell it the 3rd

7 meters boulder session is quite hard, but happy to send it in 3rd go, classic route!

The hardest route on this main crag for sure, but after I figured out the beta and went without any mistake, the route feels like a 8a - 8a+. Pretty cool boulder route for 7 meters. 3rd go sent it, it is short so you can rest and try many times a day, which is pretty good.

3.

Thought I’d get on this to see where I was at after 3 years, zero fitness and an extra 5kg. Actually managed to pull all the moves on a tight rope. Luckily I’ve got time then….

Reacquaintance time

Windy today, but surprisingly low friction - odd conditions

Windy… yet low friction. Weird.

(3)

1- nope this is never going to happen 2- Hmm some linkage 3- Linked to 5th. All moves worked out with rests at each bolt.

Nearly didn’t get on this today as it was so still and spoogy. But as we walked out, a breeze kicked in. Bottom half was soap but the top was good. 2 laps focusing on top half moves.

(3). Getting more on my own weight. Still haven’t got the last cruxy move sorted

(3) chip chip chip

Another 3 laps. 2nd shot was best yet. And maybe I’ve got the last crux sorted???

Finally on the sharp end. All moves are done!!!! Now I just need the power endurance… X3

(2)

No real stopper moves on this, just nice consistent climbing.

Probably my worst ever go… however once you get a high point that becomes your baseline. I was a bit crap today. High points: made a clip I couldn’t do before. Clipped the scary ones. 3rd shot to clean on top rope was actually my best shot of the day (humidity super low by then) and usually 3rd shot is toast!! Which means I really need low humidity to even stand a chance. (Hahaha why am I even bothering!!!! This is so beyond me!!!)

(3) solid on 2nd, then randomly z clipped … but then clean to anchor. 3rd shot not too bad … slowly getting there

After umming and aahing after our pathetic warm ups, spooginess, 4 nights of crap sleep and someone else’s draws on the proj…. Nearly just walked away. But at the last minute decided to chuck a lap on it. Conditions weren’t too bad… but we were terrible!! 😂

one more lap, today was not quite the day

First shot to get the draws on and brush the holds. Second shot I got a high point to the side pull pocket but ended up missing the kneebar, which kept my foot too low. Poop. 3rd shot was fixing a draw for Scott. Wasn’t really a shot. 4th was on tr to swap the draws out for Chris and just get extra mileage.

Primary trip goal ticked. Thanks Peta for the all the encouragement and send belay!

The second most intelligent creatures on earth — just after mice

Cool! New project for me!

Day 2. Finally figured out all the moves! Happy!