Ascents in Armeos by Chase Aaron Miller having sport-cpr or ascent-date

2nd go?!! I’m in total disbelief of what just happened. Like…how? When I first tried 3 weeks ago I needed 2 days of rest JUST from going bolt to bolt. Maybe the most onsight-able of the grade, anywhere.

Definitely soft, given that I’ve never even done a 7c+ clean. This would MAYBE get 7c/+ in other Balkan countries like Romania or Serbia…but idk where else you can climb a 40m monster roof with 28 QD’s, with moves no harder than V3/4. If you’re fit for this style, it’ll feel like a marathon 7c.

Anyhooters, grade is the least important thing about this climb. 1000 stars.

4th session, 4th go overall. First serious attempt I guess that wasn’t an intended beta burn. I gave myself a 70% chance of doing it perfectly today (with no idea how far I would get even doing so) and the conditions were bone-dry. 4 days ago it was absolutely atrocious with the crux feeling near-impossible in the humidity of the approaching storm.

Second 5.13, 7 days after sending Fun de Chichunne. Honestly on the send this did wind up feeling on the soft side with all the kneebars, but still way harder than the other 7c’s I’ve done here and elsewhere in the Balkans.

Bruh that shit was no joke, especially the lower crux. My left arm was totally blasted by the time I clipped anchors. Felt more 12b to me but I did this after redpointing Andromeda which is also heavy on the left arm. Definitely a Tennessee 12a, and maybe the only benchmark one I’ve done here. Full-value even with the polish. Stoked to do this after starting the Berserk manga/anime last week.

Unreal! Such a cool route that builds in intensity. It’s easy to go too far left to a tempting tufa jug pinch left above the flake but don’t do it!! I barely had enough technique to down-climb and reset for the proper crux execution. You need power, finesse, and proper footwork…with a sprinkle of crimp strength for good measure 😉

The direct is definitely harder to read onsight (especially sorting feet) but didn’t feel different enough from the left variation difficulty-wise to warrant an entire other route plug with a separate grade on here. C’mon. There are a number of 7a+ climbs easier than both versions at other crags. Also I managed to clip the last bolt going a bit left.

Solid route though. Really fun crux sequence before the no-hands. Redlining to the top is wicked fun.

Holy crap that was one of the best routes I’ve ever done. A jungle gym on tufas. 7a is pretty generous…if you get all the kneebars it’s no harder than 6c+. If you suck at kneebars then this will probably feel 7a+. Extending the last draw is extremely helpful, and damn-near impossible to clip unless you get the kneebar.

A few hangs to figure out each crux. First one in the overhang isn’t bad but is harder if you don’t move efficiently. Getting through the tufa system is demanding. Left kneebar and pad optional.

Then the crux after the 2nd cave is really sequence dependent especially for the feet. Felt dialed after a few runs on it. Crucial RH finger splay with left cross and bump.

Last crux leaving the small cave into the slopers was desperate as hell and didn’t not feel good. Would be highly possible to blow a redpoint here. Right kneebar to cross RH to sloper. Pulling out the kneebar and turning it into a right foot was hard. Pulling to LH pocket felt low-percentage and desperate each time.

Hardest move is yeeting thyself to the right for a jug on a grey tufa. The rest is just holding on and getting good kneebars. Top is easy but you’re pumped by then. Multiple double-kneebar upside-down rests. Lol @ everyone giving this 7b on 8a.nu

So happy that Danny convinced me to try this. Linked all the moves with no falls, first or second try. Honestly didn’t feel a move harder than like V3/4? Just one massive endurance fest on a route perfectly suited to my abilities. Can’t wait to see progress on this rig. First time trying an 8a and honestly one of the top 3 climbs I’ve ever been on.

A few kneebars, lots of jugs, and a suspicious lack of feet right when you need them! This thing has definitely gotten harder than advertised with the polish…especially the last pocket move to the glory jug. The undercling you need is almost beyond hope.

Really nice!

Hard move off the deck, around 11a then some easier climbing and slab moves on a more positive section. As the arete narrows and you see a flake out left, this is where I think the variation in grade comes from. I went direct, on some pretty hard underclings and core moves to a good rest, 5.11b-ish. My partner went left here below the underclings, on some slopers to the rest and said it felt easier. The top is hero jugs on overhang, but polished feet. Overall, pretty average.

Beta burn. This route is leagues harder than Andromeda. Did all the moves but what sort of Spartan shape do you have to be in to do this clean?!

Bouldery start with bad feet and slippery pockets. Middle part is amazing on textured broccoli. Finish is bouldery and works the biceps.

Great warmup with a definitive crux around bolt 4 where you have a left hand pinch tufa and a dynamic move right to a great just pocket. Some core tension on feet to pull up and you’re done, cruising on tufa jugs and right knee bars to chains.

Cleaned draws for Caleb on my rest day. Should’ve just led it, felt easy

Polished and sweaty. Did not really enjoy that much as a warmup, too pumpy.

The amount of joy I experienced on this route was equivalent to sitting at the DMV. Wanted to try the extension but the sheer thought of having to climb the bottom half again made me change my mind.

Easy flowy bottom section to a quite delicate little tufa crux. Fun.

Pumpy and polished. Waste of energy, and not a great warmup.

comp finish. The cross move on the overhang was fun but that’s about it.

Lovely! First day we’ve had the cave to ourselves

Loses a star for the asinine anchor-clipping stance. Needs chains to extend the anchor to clip from the obvious jug below.

Currently you have to move onto these horrible crimps to clip, which completely detracts from an otherwise quality line.

This felt more 6a+ with my reach. The hardest part requires quite a bit of stemming and some chimney-style trickery for the shorter person. The upper section is great but short-lived.

Hollow rock at the bottom leads to some slippery crux moves with a few wandery sequences left of the bolt line. More of a calf-burner than a finger warmup.

OS to crux move, then ego-stomped. Greasy conditions didn’t help. Toe-hooking to finger lock cross felt most doable but unable to latch the hold properly. Couldn’t figure out how to move from rail above clip to the jug. Feet are super slippery

One hard move on polished pockets and feet. This move felt 5.10b/c but surrounded by easy climbing.

Nice exposure! Felt hard because of how greasy it was. Final overhang is sick. You can do a totally unnecessary bat-hang in the cave before it.

Badass slab crux with a final overhang. Really cool, too bad the fun section is so short-lived.

Positive, pleasant dancing on razor blades. Needs more traffic. Thankfully none of the moves are aggressive.

Felt easier than Lady in Black

Polished slip-n-slide at the bottom with a tough finish for the grade.

Nice! Like EPC

Polished awkward technical garbage. Waste of time. Glad I didn’t lead it.

Neat dihedral section with a sharper finish.