Routes in Southern Group for selected grade

P1: Overgrown corner, easier to climb the right face, then turns into a water groove. 4 bolts, a couple of cam placements.

P2: Slab, 3 bolts. The anchor is under the crack and a bit to the right.

P3: Crack/ chimney. 4 bolts, takes large cams. Hanging belay at the slab on the left

P4: Short leftward traverse then up either through the groove (right wall quite loose) or slab to the left. 2 bolts, belay from a tree.

Rappel from "Schwarze Magie" (Black Magic), one 10m approach rappel, one 50m to the ground.

Clearly to the right of the NE edge to the 3rd stand of the NE path (25m, V, 4 bolts / 25m, V-, 2 bolts / 25m, V+, 3 bolts).

P1: Easy ramp and a corner. 25m, belay to a thread.

P2: Chimney to off-width crack, then a corner. One intermediate bolt, single ring anchor. 35m

P3: Easy chimney, single ring anchor. 45m

P4: Narrow chimney, belay on gear. 30m

P5: Chimney, belay on three. 40m

The lenghts are given as listed on the guidebook, they seemed shorter to us.

The summit register is to the right. To descent get back into the crack towards the other side. Descent a chimney for about 10m (you can belay from a small tree).

Guidebook says 20m rappel to a tree, 20m to a ring, 40m to a ring, 35m to ground. We linked the first two, and the third was more like 20m, luckily there was a new route anchor at 40m but it was hard retrieving the ropes

Escalade sur galets sur l’arête du rocher. Les points sont assez éloignés notamment au début et les galets sont cassants. Les trois premières longueurs (4C, 4C,5C) comportement respectivement 6 points, 5 points et 4 points. La fin est relativement facile (3) et c’est de la marche sur le haut du rocher. Il y a seulement 1 point.

P1 3 bolts. Starts a bit to the left (the first bolt is placed too low to be of any use, probably there to show the right entry point). Easy slab climbing. You can sling a couple of big pebbles, two more bolts at the steeper part. Single ring anchor.

P2 no bolts. Low angle dihedral, when it gets a bit steeper at the end it can be climbed as a chimney. You can continue to the first bolt of the 3rd pitch so that the 3rd pitch will be directly above the belay.

P3 2 bolts. Easy start up to the first bolt, then straight up the chimney.You can place a couple of threads and a #6 Camalot. There's a second bolt and the anchor (two rings) is on the right side over a big embedded rock.

P4 2 bolts. Up the chimney past the first bolt, a bit outwards and up to the old threads (it is a good idea to back them up with a sling of your own). Still outwards and upwards past the last bolt. You can walk a #6 for a while. You can also choose how much you want to squeeze, in for safety, out for comfort. Comfortable single ring anchor on a ledge.

P5 no bolts. Wide chimney which becomes almost horizontal up to the single ring anchor.

http://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/Schildkrotenpfad

P1 6 bolts, P2 2 bolts, P3 3 bolts, P4 1 bolt.

After the abseil place you can walk 30m to the top and the route book. Abseil the same way down (4 rappels).