Routes in Doupiani Rock

1st pitch 7qd, 2nd 2qd, 3rd 0qd, 4th 4qd, 5th 1qd

Approach

• Starting Point: Park your car at the coordinates (39.722960, 21.622752).

• Walking Directions:

  1. Walk downhill along the main road.
  2. Pass the camping site on your left and Tavern on your right.
  3. Continue on until you reach a crossroad.
  4. At the crossroad, turn right.
  5. Continue Walking, the road will go slightly uphill. Continue until you arrive at a small creek (39.720539, 21.618838).
  6. Follow the Creek towards the starting point of the route, located at coordinates (39.72157, 21.61920). There is a small pathway on the east side of the creek.

Bolds: 5, 4, 5, 5

Approach

Park your car at the coordinates (39.722960, 21.622752), then walk down the main road and the ridge will be visible on the right side.

The route starts at (39.722249, 21.621898).

About the route

There are a few options, the easiest route is if you follow the ridge. For a more challanging climbing you can start left of the ridge (crux in first pitch 5c) and then rejoin on the ridge.

In the upper part between the second and third pitch, there is a traverse that needs to be climbed using friction on the feet. There is one bolt available in the middle of traverse, which is sufficient, but it could be scary for some climbers (should not be a reason not to climb this route).

After the traverse, the path continues towards the anchor on the ridge, while the harder route goes to the right along a crack to the anchor point near the small trees.

In hot summer days it is best to climb the route late in the afternoon.

P1 8 bolts, P2 ? bolts.