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1 6+
2 5
3 2
4 2
5 5-
6 3-

description

The route starts at the plateau, just over the entrance to the cave chapel. There's a metal staircase at the back side of the large boulder that touches the main wall.

P1: Wall climb, 3 bolts, 10m

P2: Rightwards towards the tree. 4 bolts, 20m.

P3: Chimney towards a good ledge. 15m. The first three pitches can be easily linked.

P4: Rappel/ get lowered to the ledge, climb the ramp. 20m

P5: Wide crack corner, 1 bolt, takes large gear (e.g. 5-6 camalot) 25m

P6: Easy rightwards traverse. 1 bolt, 40m

The guidebook says it's a walk off from there but we did another 35m pitch to a tree to be on the safe side.

Turn left towards the summit register. Follow the cairns to a small approach rappel and two 40m rappels through "Weg des wassers".

Route history

3 Apr 1980Route setter: Udo Dalgger & Helmut Dalgger

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 39.71925, 21.62553

Grade citation

VI+,V,II,II,V-,III- Assigned grade

ethic

Traditionally, Meteora was in great parts explored by climbers with background from Saxon Switzerland (East Germany), translating to ringbolts, leadbolting and runouts. However, there is also some mainstream sport climbing to be found.

inherited from Meteora

Seasonality

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M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
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Crap

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Tick Types

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Vangelis Batsios

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9786180046649

A selective guidebook describing 206 of the best classic multi-pitch routes at Meteora, covering both traditional and modern routes.

Author(s): Vangelis Batsios

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9786180037999

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found at Meteora, Theopetra, Sarakina, and Agia Paraskev, covering 319 routes.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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