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Route in Holy Ghost for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
{UIAA} 7- Wahnsinnsverschneidung
1 6- 35m
2 6 35m
3 6+ 15m
4 7- 35m
5 6+ 25m
6 5+ 35m
7 5-

Four pitches of right facing corner system, followed by two pitches of a black water runnel to the summit of Holy Ghost. A brilliant outing.

While a trad route, there is fairly consistently a bolt every 6 to 8 metres, and somewhat closer on the 35 metres pitch 4 where the crack is wide.

Confident climbers will therefore be able to climb the route with a set of wires, and a set of cams up to BD3. More gear will obviously increase confidence further.

The belays are not clear on the route being typically only a single bolt, with trad gear to supplement. So just climb until you get pumped or run out of gear, then find a position you like.

Expect to do lots of laybacking. The nature of the crack system doesn't suit jamming.

Set: Sepp Eichinger & Hans Weninger, 1983

Mixed trad 180m, 6, 20

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