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1 3a 35m
2 2a 35m
3 3a 40m
4 3a 25m
5 3c 40m
6 4b 35m
7 4c 40m

description

Adventurous route with easy but exposed climbing.

P1 starts on the west face, some 30m left of the SW ridge. It climbs diagonally to the right to the anchors at the entrance of the tunnel (2 bolts).

P2 Easy scramble trough the tunnel cave. At the exit ignore the anchor on your right and go for the one on the far end of the cave. (no bolts).

P3 Diagonally up on the largest cobbles towards the next cave, anchor to the far end (2 bolts).

P4 Easy but exposed traverse until the bolt (about 10m to the right) then up, anchor at the middle of the cave (1 bolt, you can sling 1-2 cobbles).

P5 Rightwards traverse then up the water groove into another hollow cave. Walk through to the other side, anchor behind the tree (no bolts, a couple of cam placements at the right of the groove).

P6 Diagonally up and right through cave traverses and vertical slab moves between them (2 bolts).

P7 Straight up to the bolt, then rightwards to easier ground and up to the summit (1 bolt)

Return by rappelling down Südwestkante (4 rappels)

Route history

10 Apr 1979First ascent:

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 39.71080, 21.61891

Grade citation

3a,2a,3a,3a,3c,4b,4c Assigned grade
private

ethic

Traditionally, Meteora was in great parts explored by climbers with background from Saxon Switzerland (East Germany), translating to ringbolts, leadbolting and runouts. However, there is also some mainstream sport climbing to be found.

inherited from Meteora

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 63 from 4 ratings.

Difficulty - 4c

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

5b

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 1
Flash 2

Comment keywords

face

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Vangelis Batsios

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9786180046649

A selective guidebook describing 206 of the best classic multi-pitch routes at Meteora, covering both traditional and modern routes.

Author(s): Vangelis Batsios

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9786180037999

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found at Meteora, Theopetra, Sarakina, and Agia Paraskev, covering 319 routes.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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