Adventurous route with easy but exposed climbing.
P1 starts on the west face, some 30m left of the SW ridge. It climbs diagonally to the right to the anchors at the entrance of the tunnel (2 bolts).
P2 Easy scramble trough the tunnel cave. At the exit ignore the anchor on your right and go for the one on the far end of the cave. (no bolts).
P3 Diagonally up on the largest cobbles towards the next cave, anchor to the far end (2 bolts).
P4 Easy but exposed traverse until the bolt (about 10m to the right) then up, anchor at the middle of the cave (1 bolt, you can sling 1-2 cobbles).
P5 Rightwards traverse then up the water groove into another hollow cave. Walk through to the other side, anchor behind the tree (no bolts, a couple of cam placements at the right of the groove).
P6 Diagonally up and right through cave traverses and vertical slab moves between them (2 bolts).
P7 Straight up to the bolt, then rightwards to easier ground and up to the summit (1 bolt)
Return by rappelling down Südwestkante (4 rappels)
10 Apr 1979 | First ascent: |
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3a,2a,3a,3a,3c,4b,4c | Assigned grade |
★★private |
Overall quality 63 from 4 ratings.
Based on 1 ratings.
Based on 1 ratings.
Author(s): Vangelis Batsios
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9786180046649
A selective guidebook describing 206 of the best classic multi-pitch routes at Meteora, covering both traditional and modern routes.
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Date: 2022
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Author(s): Thierry Souchard
Date: 2017
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