Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Group Demetrius Rock | |||||
5a | ★★ Potato Ballet
FA: Richard Goedeke, Hans Weninger & J. Kühlmeyer, 1999 | 50m, 7 | |||
6a | ★★ Potato Beetle
FA: Falk Heinicke & C. Heinicke, 2002 | 45m, 7 | |||
Northern Group Thumbstall | |||||
4a | Route of Musty
FA: Siegfried Weippert & U. Daigger, 1983 | 20m, 1 | |||
6a | ★★ Thumbelina
FA: Falk Heinicke & C. Heinicke, 2002 | 15m, 3 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Katerina
FA: C. Tzioufetas & V. Batsios, Jul 2014 | 15m, 4 | |||
5b+ | ★ North Wall
FA: Kostas Tsizogiannis & V. Tatsiramou, 1995 | 15m, 2 | |||
6a | ★★ Little Brother and little Sister
FA: Falk Heinicke, A. Riemer, C. Heinicke & X. Heinicke, 2002 | 15m, 3 | |||
Northern Group Big Brother | |||||
1 | Normal Route
FA: 1983 | ||||
6a | ★ Brother Gang
FA: Udo Henke, 1991 | 20m, 2 | |||
5c | ★ Edge of the Slot
FA: Detlef Augustin, 1997 | 20m, 3 | |||
5c | ★ Pixel
FA: Vangelis Batsios & C. Tzioufetas, 22 May 2014 | 25m, 3 | |||
4c | ★ Barfoot Edge
FA: Siegfried Weippert & Udo Daigger, 1983 | 25m, 1 | |||
Western Group King Bolete | |||||
VI | ★ Northwest Route
V A1 or VI FA: Dietrich Hasse & H. L. Stutte, 1980 | ||||
Western Group The Bell | |||||
{UIAA} 6- | Ostweg
| ||||
{UIAA} 4+ | Wandvariante
| ||||
5b | ★★ Chimes
FA: Heinz Lothar Stutte & D. Hasse, 1983 | 110m, 6 | |||
{UIAA} 7+ | ★★★ Allemannischer Schelledanz
1
6
35m
2
7-
30m
3
6-
20m
4
7+
15m
| 100m, 4, 29 | |||
{UIAA} 7+ | ★ Glockengeläut
FA: Matthias Mittasch, 1992 | ||||
{UIAA} 7+ A1 | ★★ Pfadfinder
| 3 | |||
{UIAA} 6 | Wem die Stunde schlägt
| ||||
{UIAA} 6+ | Böhmische Klingel
FA: Jaroslav Končak, 1986 | ||||
Western Group Kastraki Tower | |||||
6b | ★★★ Valley Route
The few existing sources say, it's an oldschool and hard to protect, crack/ chimney climb. FA: Dietrich Hasse & Heinz Lothar Stutte, 1980 | 4, 7 | |||
{UIAA} 5 | Pindoskante
1
5-
30m
2
5
25m
3
4+
40m
4
4
40m
5
4
25m
Set: Dietrich Hasse & Ursula Hasse, 1990 | 160m, 5, 15 | |||
Western Group Bishops Cap | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Die Tyrannis des Theagenes
| ||||
Western Group Echo Rock | |||||
7a | ★★ Risky Dancer
FA: George Thomoglou & Alexander Sabidis, 1989 | 95m, 3, 27 | |||
6b+ | Pineios wall
Friends No. 0,5-3 FA: 1987 | 95m, 4, 17 | |||
Western Group Batalogianni Rock | |||||
6a+ | ★ Childs Toy
FA: Heiko Fuchs & U. Walter, 1994 | 35m, 6 | |||
7a | ★★ Childs Toy Direct
FA: Vangelis Batsios & C. Tzioufetas, 2014 | 30m, 7 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Pan Toffel
FA: Olaf Jesiorski, D. Lehnert, U. Fretter & S. Brust, 1996 | 40m, 8 | |||
6a+ | ★ Pan
FA: Uwe Rößler & R. Scheidler, 1993 | 32m, 8 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Terminator
FA: Giannis Telis & Sotiris Foussias, 1997 | 45m, 13 | |||
5b+ | ★ Right East Face Gully
FA: Dietrich Hasse & G. Haider, 1986 | 40m, 5 | |||
7a | ★★★ Vyronas
FA: Christos Batalogiannis & V. Batsios, 1998 | 30m, 7 | |||
5a | Way of the Turtles
FA: H. Hempel & and friends, 1995 | 30m, 3 | |||
4c | ★ Northwest Ridge
FA: Dietrich Hsse & G. Haider, 1986 | 30m, 2 | |||
5c+ | ★★ Spring Air
Wall left of "West Route". FA: Vangelis Batsios, 4 Apr 2018 | 20m, 7 | |||
3 | West Route
Left in the west face step and groove (bush) to the top. FA: Bodo Zöpel & U. Weinreich, 1970 | ||||
Western Group Grail | |||||
{UIAA} 6 A1 | ★★★ Eiertanz
1
5
25m
2
6-
25m
3
5
40m
4
3
20m
5
6 A1
20m
Easily the most photogenic route in Meteora, due to the step-across move. P1, P2: 3/7 bolts. Can be linked together with 60m ropes. Slab climbing with a few steep sections. P3: Thin slab climbing then a chimney and a water groove, belay on a ledge to the right. 1 bolt, good cam placements. P4: Walk up to the first summit, beware of loose rock. Belay on top on the summit, not the rappel anchor on the wall. No bolts. P5: The icing of the cake. Down-climb to the fixed rope, use it to lean across and clip the bolt, than do the step-across. Traverse left then follow the crack and face to the top. 7 bolts, takes small cams. There's a rappel anchor across the summit plateau and a bit to the left. Two overhanging 45m rappels to the ground. Alternatively there's another to the right from which you can descent through "Spiralweg". | 130m, 5 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Dresdner Eierschecke
1
5c+
2
6a
3
6a+
4
6a+
| 4 | |||
Western Group Boy Vulture | |||||
1 | Mountain Route
Left in the west side to the top. | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Arachnophobie
In the valley side corner and right wall (6 bolts) to the top. FA: Telis Giannis & S. Fusias, 1997 | 20m, 8 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Arachnophobie Direct
Start right of "Arachnophobie". FA: Christo Batalogiannis & V. Batsios, 1 Feb 2016 | 20m, 8 | |||
UIAA:3 | West Route
Right in the west side sloped wall, passing a ledge, to the top. | ||||
Western Group Vultures Wall | |||||
4c | Northwest Corner
FA: Dietrich Hasse & H. L. Stutte, 1976 | ||||
7a+ | Thousand Devils Dance
Wall right of "Northwest Corner" (15 bolts) to arete and to the top. FA: Jörg Sommer & A. Weigert, 1996 | 15 | |||
5c | ★★★ West Ridge
FA: Dietrich Hasse & S. König, 1984 | 140m, 5, 12 | |||
5c | Dr. Brösel
Pillar left of "West Ridge" (6 bolts) to the end of the crack and "West Ridge" to the top. FA: Jörg Sommer & A. Weigert, 1996 | ||||
6a+ | Long Variant
Left in the valley face corner crack and wall (6 bolts, 60m). At ledge traverse left to 2nd belay of "West Ridge". FA: David Semiginovsky & S. Silhan, 1987 | ||||
6a+ | Uplift
FA: Andreas Hausotter, Hans Weninger & B. Wischhöfer, 1984 | ||||
6c | Direct Uplift
1
6c
40m
2
6c
35m
Right of "Uplift" direct over the ridge (2 pitches, 6c 40m 12 bolts and 6c 35m 9 bolts) to "Uplift". FA: Vangelis Batsios, C. Tsourvakas, K. Dolis & G. Vaiouzozos, 2004 | 75m, 2 | |||
Western Group Organpipe Wall | |||||
{UIAA} 8- A0 | Toccata une Fuge Direkt
| ||||
{UIAA} 7 | Regenbogen
| 210m, 5, 14 | |||
{UIAA} 7 | Aprilschmerz
| ||||
Western Group Cloud Wall | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | Schwarzer Kater, weiße Katze
| 210m, 6 | |||
Western Group Devils Tower | |||||
4a | Northwest Route
| 4 | |||
{UIAA} 7- | ★★ Dr. Faust
| 150m, 5, 19 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Valley Arete
Easy to confuse with route Dr Faust, since there are bolts in route that are not in guide book. Route is mostly sport climbing with good protection on harder pitches and longer runouts on easier parts. FA: R.Velisek & J.Janas, 1986 | 150m, 4 | |||
Western Group Ypsilotera Rock | |||||
5b | ★★★ West Arete
| 5 | |||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★★ Westkante Direkt
| 2 | |||
6a | ★★ Himmelsleiter
1
6a
35m
2
5c
40m
3
4b
40m
A popular direct line on excellent rock. The line of three rappels goes almost down the route Butterfly and you will see new bolts all the way down. P1 6 bolts, P2 3 bolts, P3 2 bolts. FA: H. L. Stutte & O. Sched, 1982 | 120m, 3 | |||
{UIAA} 7- | ★★ Danae
1
7-
30m
2
5+
40m
3
5
30m
4
3
35m
1st pitch 8 bolts, 2nd 9 bolts, 3rd 6 bolts, 4th 2 bolts Set: A.Theodoropoulos & D. Karalis, 1997 | 140m, 4, 25 | |||
{UIAA} 5- | ★★ Apollofalter
FA: Udo Daigger & Helmut Daigger, 1981 | ||||
Western Group Dragon Cave | |||||
6c+ | Etsi ki Allios
| 10m, 4 | |||
7b/b+ | ★★ I can't make you love me
| 8m, 4 | |||
7b/b+ | ★★★ Dragon Fighter
| 10m, 5 | |||
8a+ | ★★★ Diagonian Devil
| 10m, 6 | |||
Western Group Moni Rock | |||||
{UIAA} 6+ | Wahlfahrt
| ||||
{UIAA} 5- | Talweg
| 30m, 3 | |||
Western Group St. Barbara Tower | |||||
{UIAA} 5- A0 | East Arete
| 5 | |||
{UIAA} 8- | Restive Domestication
| ||||
Western Group Mushroom | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Overhang
| 10m, 3 | |||
Western Group Sphere | |||||
4b | St. Babara Route
| 10m, 2 | |||
5c+ | Rockabilly
| 10m, 4 | |||
7c+ | Dyno Warrior
| 10m, 4 | |||
Western Group Cat's Church | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Saxon Triplet
In middle south face crack groove and wall to little overhang (bolt). Left Crach groove to overhang (bolt). Overhang 82 bolts, crux) and crack leftwards to west arete (3 bolts) and to the top. The main line. First bolt is VERY high. FA: Michael Eckert, Dirk Lehnert & T. Eckert, 1991 | 40m, 7 | |||
Western Group Stone Mule | |||||
5c+ | ★★ Western Face
Up the crack then right and up. FA: Balamotis Phanasis, P. Giorgos & N. Apostolis, 1987 | 35m, 3 | |||
Western Group Rock of Rousanou | |||||
Performer
| 12m | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Mystique
| 12m, 5 | |||
5a | Sandal
| 10m, 2 | |||
Roof on Fire
| 6m, 4 | ||||
7b | ★★★ Super Paradise
| 12m, 5 | |||
7b/b+ | ★★★ Final Decision
| 10m, 5 | |||
5a | ★ Pontix
| 7m, 2 | |||
Western Group Tower of Cedars | |||||
4b | ★★ Northeast Ridge
FA: H. Magdefrau, D. Hasse & H. L. Stutte, 1977 | 15m, 2 | |||
6c | ★★★ Geraki
FA: 2016 | 15m, 6 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ From the Cold
FA: Falk Heinicke & A. Riemer, 2001 | 15m, 4 | |||
Western Group Doupiani Rock Southwest Face | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | Southwest Face
| ||||
{UIAA} 5+ | ★★ Rain Pillar
1
5+
35m
2
3+
35m
3
1
20m
4
5+
35m
5
4-
15m
1st pitch 7qd, 2nd 2qd, 3rd 0qd, 4th 4qd, 5th 1qd Approach
Set: Udo Daigger & H. Daigger, 1979 | 140m, 5 | |||
Western Group Doupiani Rock Southeast Face | |||||
6c+/7a | ★ En Psycho
| 130m, 4, 24 | |||
6c/c+ | ★ Black Out
| 40m, 6 | |||
6c/c+ | ★ Efialtis
| 150m, 5, 32 | |||
7a/a+ | ★ Duett
| 160m, 5, 33 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Southeast Wall
| 160m, 6 | |||
7c+ | ★★ Crazy Dancing
| 150m, 5, 31 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Hammer and Sickle
1
6b
30m
2
3a
10m
3
6c+
25m
4
4b
45m
5
4c
30m
6
3b
30m
Set: Dietrich Hasse & Hans Weninger, 1988 | 170m, 6, 25 | |||
6a+ | ★ Dickes Ende
| 150m, 5, 10 | |||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★★ Ohne Vorbehalt
1
5-
35m
2
5
40m
3
5+
35m
4
6
35m
Bolds: 5, 4, 5, 5 Set: Hans Weninger, B.Fluck, D. Kaiser, Anneliese Weninger & Inga Weninger, 1992 | 150m, 4, 19 | |||
5c | ★★★ East Ridge
1
3a
40m
2
3a
25m
3
4c
25m
4
5c
35m
Approach Park your car at the coordinates (39.722960, 21.622752), then walk down the main road and the ridge will be visible on the right side. The route starts at (39.722249, 21.621898). About the route There are a few options, the easiest route is if you follow the ridge. For a more challanging climbing you can start left of the ridge (crux in first pitch 5c) and then rejoin on the ridge. In the upper part between the second and third pitch, there is a traverse that needs to be climbed using friction on the feet. There is one bolt available in the middle of traverse, which is sufficient, but it could be scary for some climbers (should not be a reason not to climb this route). After the traverse, the path continues towards the anchor on the ridge, while the harder route goes to the right along a crack to the anchor point near the small trees. In hot summer days it is best to climb the route late in the afternoon. Set: Dietrich Hasse & H.L. Stutte, 1976 | 130m, 4, 12 | |||
Western Group Doupiani Rock Northwest Face | |||||
5b | Nightmare
| 3, 8 | |||
5a | ★★ Steps in the Evening
| 80m, 2, 6 |