Routes in Greece

The via ferrata aproach to the cave, starts overhanging and the steps are far apart in some points.

The first and so far only via ferrata on Crete near Kapetaniana (10/2021). Video. Video. Link. Pictures. 2-3 hours. Video.

No anchors

No anchors

No anchors

No anchors

unfinished, has anchors

Unfinished??

Still unfinished.

Clearly to the right of the NE edge to the 3rd stand of the NE path (25m, V, 4 bolts / 25m, V-, 2 bolts / 25m, V+, 3 bolts).

η καμινάδα που πλέον δεν σκσρφαλώνεται, μιας κι έγινε πραγματική καμινάδα της καλύβας του Σωτήρη

η πρώτη πλάκα αριστερά στο πεδίο

εύκολη ράμπα στην αρχή και στην πρώτη πλακέτα αριστερά πάνω απ την "2"

ράμπα στην αρχή και μετά καμινάδα

αριστερή σχισμή στην ράμπα. Πρώτο καρφί κρίκος.

ξεκινάει ράμπα με την 8, πάει λίγο δεξιά και στο τέλος σχισμή τραβέρσα αριστερά

Bolds: 5, 4, 5, 5

Easily the most photogenic route in Meteora, due to the step-across move.

P1, P2: 3/7 bolts. Can be linked together with 60m ropes. Slab climbing with a few steep sections.

P3: Thin slab climbing then a chimney and a water groove, belay on a ledge to the right. 1 bolt, good cam placements.

P4: Walk up to the first summit, beware of loose rock. Belay on top on the summit, not the rappel anchor on the wall. No bolts.

P5: The icing of the cake. Down-climb to the fixed rope, use it to lean across and clip the bolt, than do the step-across. Traverse left then follow the crack and face to the top. 7 bolts, takes small cams.

There's a rappel anchor across the summit plateau and a bit to the left. Two overhanging 45m rappels to the ground. Alternatively there's another to the right from which you can descent through "Spiralweg".

A popular direct line on excellent rock. The line of three rappels goes almost down the route Butterfly and you will see new bolts all the way down.

P1 6 bolts, P2 3 bolts, P3 2 bolts.

P1: Overgrown corner, easier to climb the right face, then turns into a water groove. 4 bolts, a couple of cam placements.

P2: Slab, 3 bolts. The anchor is under the crack and a bit to the right.

P3: Crack/ chimney. 4 bolts, takes large cams. Hanging belay at the slab on the left

P4: Short leftward traverse then up either through the groove (right wall quite loose) or slab to the left. 2 bolts, belay from a tree.

Rappel from "Schwarze Magie" (Black Magic), one 10m approach rappel, one 50m to the ground.

Four pitches of right facing corner system, followed by two pitches of a black water runnel to the summit of Holy Ghost. A brilliant outing.

While a trad route, there is fairly consistently a bolt every 6 to 8 metres, and somewhat closer on the 35 metres pitch 4 where the crack is wide.

Confident climbers will therefore be able to climb the route with a set of wires, and a set of cams up to BD3. More gear will obviously increase confidence further.

The belays are not clear on the route being typically only a single bolt, with trad gear to supplement. So just climb until you get pumped or run out of gear, then find a position you like.

Expect to do lots of laybacking. The nature of the crack system doesn't suit jamming.

P1 3 bolts. Starts a bit to the left (the first bolt is placed too low to be of any use, probably there to show the right entry point). Easy slab climbing. You can sling a couple of big pebbles, two more bolts at the steeper part. Single ring anchor.

P2 no bolts. Low angle dihedral, when it gets a bit steeper at the end it can be climbed as a chimney. You can continue to the first bolt of the 3rd pitch so that the 3rd pitch will be directly above the belay.

P3 2 bolts. Easy start up to the first bolt, then straight up the chimney.You can place a couple of threads and a #6 Camalot. There's a second bolt and the anchor (two rings) is on the right side over a big embedded rock.

P4 2 bolts. Up the chimney past the first bolt, a bit outwards and up to the old threads (it is a good idea to back them up with a sling of your own). Still outwards and upwards past the last bolt. You can walk a #6 for a while. You can also choose how much you want to squeeze, in for safety, out for comfort. Comfortable single ring anchor on a ledge.

P5 no bolts. Wide chimney which becomes almost horizontal up to the single ring anchor.