Ascents in Hong Kong having Beta

赶在最热闹的一天回东龙，想摸dimple face结果发现前面有十个人在排队，碰巧这条线没人摸。基本上是个v4的抱石难点，左右手两个烂点正身上高脚，左手出一个烂扣扣过渡然后起重心抢一个左手烂pinch，继续起重心交叉手右手抓大点。分一把熟悉一把红线尝试第一把几乎成功第二把右手没力锁不住了，下次有缘再收吧。

The HVS 5b crux is sandbagged or old school grading. If it was a sports climb, I would give it a 6b+/6c. However the day I tried was after a week of rain so the crack was quite wet. Still! The crux pitch is much harder and burlier than the subsequent 5a pitched.

Overhang + crimps + dyno = hard upper part 😂

暴露感很强，但也很出片，雨后岩点湿滑，个别动作没有连起来，下次天气好再战。保护平台很小，如果是最后一把可以把人放到最下面的山谷里再爬上来，比较方便收纳绳子。

雨后岩点湿滑，难度陡增，但动作都很不错，下次天气好再来挑战

虽然我被吓破了胆，踩了挂片，抓了快挂，终于到了顶。但是确实是对内心的考验。好线路，最后的slab暴露感强，风景也很好

起步就是难点，难点也太硬了吧，感觉得有V5，真是短小猥琐的典型。幸好看着就不善，摸了摸点没太卖力试动作。头哥努力了一个多小时也还差两个move没做出来。

有点意思，不过前面四个挂每个位置掉都有一定风险，总之就是不能掉。

不算太硬，动作比较有意思，但有些地方掉落的话有一定风险。最后一个挂片没找到大点硬挺完成了。

难点在快结束时，比较小的小片片，死扣，很有特点，其它岩性不容易遇到

热身很不错，听说之前是传统，打了钉。线路质量高

我好像在slab的位置爬错了线路，可能爬到旁边的7c+上了，不然为啥没有点哇

看路书还是分不清楚哪条才是爬过的，分别爬了两条起步翻仰角的，左边的难于右边

可能是因为下了雨比较湿滑，手点都不好抓，侧拉和翻仰角很好玩，希望下次天气好点来试试先锋

Climbed the first two pitches, my second didnt want to continue after the first, so I went up one more than back down.

Seemed like a nice climb, had a fair bit of smog and it was pretty hot directly in the sun.

Missed the ferry so just went here. Cool route found it pretty scary up on the slab.

Went till the fourth QuickDraw. Couldn’t go onto the first platform

海景绝佳观赏位

中间有个好抓的手点处于松动的状态，小心爆点

缝里阴暗爬行，全身都在用力直接把一天体力榨干，但蛄蛹的动作还挺有安全感

中间有个点太滑怕抓不住take了一下，还是怂了，下次一定

快乐平衡线

旧缝新爬，和上次beta不一样，但爬完就虚脱了

岩壁湿湿的还没干，给我心态爬崩了

Pretty cool, get up top for the views, not enough time for the upper pitches...

Didn't check the guidebook, got pretty scared leading this as the first route of the day, did it a bit further right than I probably needed...

Crackers for a 6a+ - but apparently, I missed the big holds

Warm your fingers up before, the entire crux is one crimp after another

Nice slab section

CLimbed it wet, not ideal

暴露感特别强，一条平衡线

Fun to be back on Tung Lung! Wet and slippy.

Fun to be back on Tung Lung! Wet and slippy.

Fun to be back on Tung Lung! Wet and slippy.

Didn't have the beta figured out. Need to go further to the left than I thought.

跟攀，但是下撤大平台之前最好倒攀，平台太多了

Painful, especially with the entire right wall being super slippery. The middle segment with the heave up was made unfortunate with a muddy pocket.

Hate to say I loved the climb. Tricky crux at the start with wanting feet.

Injuriously reached the top of the climb. Tried to climb it one more time for the toprope send, but popped at the high hard heel.

Knocking me down a peg - tried to warm up on this!