Nodes in Achalu

This area's development was initiated by Dinesh Kaigonhalli in early 2014. Subsequently a few additional routes have been put up by various other folks.

Bear country - Avoid night climbing here (there are rumours that this might be converted to bear sanctuary).

Be wary about not trampling through private farms.

P1: 5.9. 45 Meters, 7 bolts + 2. The start is on a narrow ledge, with a 30-foot slab below. You could protect the belayer with Trad gear at the ledge.

P2: 5.6. 45 meters, 5 bolts + 2. Easy run out to the top anchors.

Route credit, Mohit and Dini. Jan 1st, 2015.

P1: 5.10B. 20 meters, 6 + 2 bolts.

The first pitch starts with a traverse, left to right, and then heads up straight. Sustained 5.10b and can be a ‘reachy’ problem for folks under 5’.8”. Suggested to use a 24” alpine draws on the second and third bolt to reduce the rope drag due to the traverse.

P2: 5.7. 35 meters. 6 + 2 bolts.

The second pitch eases up considerably.

P3. 5.5. 35 meters. 6+2 bolts. With a 70-meter rope, it is possible to connect both the pitches, and with a strong climber, you could also skip some bolts.

Route credit, Dini and team. Early 2014.

Since the first ascent by Nifa Venkatesh, when the route was rated at 5.10D, multiple holds have broken off, making the climb harder subsequently.

Last reported grade seems to indicate that it had inched beyond 5.11d+. After the first 15 feet or so, the route is 5.6-7ish. First bolt is accessible with a clip stick.

First pitch is 15 odd meters, and then two long pitches each.

Most folks stick-clip the first bolt, aid it and continue the climb. Route credit, Nifa and Dini. Mid-2014.

P1: 5.9. 45 meters. 8-10 + 2 bolts

The crux is between bolt one and two. Don’t veer too much from the bolt line, while between the two bolts. The bolting is so optimal that a fall after the first bolt, before clipping the second bolt might deck you to the ground, if you pull up excess rope while clipping. Two separate broken ankles attest to this. Crux is true to the grade.

Suggested that you clip a long draw to be able to clip low and reduce the risk of falling to the ground.

P2: 5.6. 45 meters. 8-10 + 2 bolts.

Route credit, Dini. 2015

Back in Business is one of the first two routes put up on Achalu wall by Dinesh Kaigonhalli.

P1: 5.6. 30 meters. 5 + 2 bolts. First pitch starts to the right of the caves. Stand up on a ledge after the slab, and you are at the first bolt.

P2: 5.4. 25 meters. 2 + 2 bolts.

Second pitch is a walk up between large pockets.

P3. 5.7. 30 meters. 4 + 2 bolts.

Interesting pitch for a beginner route.

Route credit, Dini and team. Early 2014.

P1: 5.6 - 30 Meters -4 (+ 1) + 2 bolts.

After first pitch, the route merges with Back in Business second and third pitches.

P2: 5.4. 30 Meter. 2 + 2 bolts.

Second pitch is a walk up between large pockets.

P3: 5.7. 30 meters. 4 + 2 bolts.

Four bolts plus one shared with Back in Business.

This route is also a popular first pitch variation to get on routes number 7 and 8.

To get on Memory Loss or Basanti, veer right after the fourth bolt, and locate the first pitch top anchors to the right on easy terrain, after another 60 odd feet.

Route credit, Dini and team. Early 2014.

Original first pitch of 50 meters is shared with Basanti.

The original first pitch is an extremely runout line, though on easy terrain after the first 10 odd meters. And the bolts are hard to locate. So, most folks get on CACCAC, and traverse right onto these routes.

P1: 5.6. 50 meters, 3 + 2 bolts.

P2: 5.8. 40 meters. 4 + 2 bolts.

The first bolt is about 20 meters after the P1 anchor station on a very easy terrain. Thereafter, interesting face climb. • Route credit, Dini and Nifa, Jan 25th, 2015.

P1: 5.6. 50 meters, 3 + 2 bolts (Same as Memory loss)

P2: 5.9. 40 meters. 5 + 2 bolts.

Starts with a 20-meter runout on easy terrain, and then five bolts protecting the crux. The top Anchor station again shared with Memory Loss. The line runs along the left edge of the massive cave. The view into the cave is quite interesting.

Dini and friends, Feb 2015.

Requires one #7 or #8 BD Nut.

Two pitches of 35-50 odd meters in length each. Can be done in one push with a 70-meter rope if you scramble up the initial low angle slab.

P1: 5.6. 35 meters. 4 + 2 bolts.

The first half is a low angle slab, with two bolts that are missing hangers. Either carry your own hangers or use nuts to sling around them and protect the scramble up the slab. The slab is only 5.4 in grade. So, you could run it out. There after another 20 meters of 5.6 steep angle slab to the anchor bolts.

P2: 5.8. 50-55 meters. 7 + 2 bolts.

With a 70-meter rope, from top of the low angle slab, and where the steeper slab begins, the climb can be completed in one push.

Second pitch is a sustained 5.7ish and the crux begins from the small roof. After the roof, traverse left towards a horizontal crack. A slight run out between fourth and fifth bolt, which can be protected with a nut (Black Diamond nut #7 or #8).

The route was named to inspire Tsai Yuan Chan (friend of the sponsor of this route, Babitha Dhuler), who was fighting cancer at the time of the route being put up. She passed away in 2016.

Route credit, Sohan, Poonacha, Prashanth, Shreyas, Roma. Jul/Aug 2014.

Bear country - Avoid night climbing here (there are rumours that this might be converted to bear sanctuary).

Be wary about not trampling through private farms.

Mixed Sport and Trad line. This singular climb is located on the upper Achalu wall. You could either climb one of the routes on the lower Achalu wall to reach it or hike up from the right-side ridge. Once you climb the lower Achalu wall, the top is a plateau/ledge, and then the upper Achalu wall rises above it. The approach is a bit of an adventure in itself; through the thicket at the base. The route is extremely rewarding experience.

Gear needed: 60-meter rope. A dozen draws (including alpine draws). Rack from #.3 through #2, and two-three tricams (pink/red/brown).

P1: 5.10a. 20 meters. 4 bolts plus a couple of placements + 2 bolts.

Starts on a diagonal crack, left to right, and then traverses right for two bolts, then straight up. Crux involves the traverse from bolt one to two, and then again just after the fourth bolt.

P2: 5.10d. 25 meters. 9 + 2 bolts. Sustained and pumpy moves. Mildly runout after the 9th bolt.

P3. 5.9. 32 meters. 3 bolts plus series of placements + 2.

A series of horizontal cracks and a single bolt for about 40 feet. Thereafter, no protection on 5.6 terrain for 12 odd meters, until the next bolt. Then angle left for 10 meters on the slab, to find the anchor station.

Route credit and FFA: Jakob Jo, Paul Zeltner & Adwaith Manohar (2014). The route was retro bolted in Jan 2018 per the request of Paul & Jakob to make it safer. Previously there were two bolts on P1, four bolts on P2, and one bolt on P3. If you wish to follow the old line, avoid all bolts that have Gipfel hangers. Before being retro bolted, the route saw one partial second ascent upto P2, by Vineeth Katarki and Ravee Bhat. • Exit by walking off to the right and exiting off the lower Achalu.

A stand-alone boulder, about 12-14 meters high and about 20 meters wide. This large boulder comes up to the right, as you hike to the Achalu wall, from the parking area. The boulder is located about 200 meters from the Achalu wall.

There are four lines on it currently, one Trad, one Sport and two project lines that can be top roped.

Project #1 can be set up for top rope with gear set in a horizontal crack system on the top.

You could either lead the Trad route to the right or the Sport route, to get to the crack. Or you can climb from behind the boulder with some Trad gear.

Get on the boulder at the base and after the first bouldery move of 6b (Font grade), easier climb.

Rack upto # 3 BD cams, single rack.

Route credit and FA: Selena Pang & Sohan Pavuluri. Jan 2016.

FFA, Sohan. Route by Sohan & Satish. Jan 2016

Top ropeable climb. Project. Start at the bulge and work your way along the arête.

FA: Sohan. Jan 2016

Bear country - Avoid night climbing here (there are rumours that this might be converted to bear sanctuary).

Be wary about not trampling through private farms.

A local favorite because of the long length, accessibility, and good views.

Starts on a ledge, with a slab approach of 8-10 meters.

P1: 5.7. 30 meters. 5 + 2 bolts.

Scramble up the most prominent low angle ramp just below the long diagonal crack in the wall, and the bolts start after another 5-8 meters.

P2: 5.9. 33 meters. 7 + 2 bolts

Could connect P1 & P2 with a 70 meters rope for time-efficiency. No significant drag.

The crux is between bolt 1 and bolt 3. There after the grade eases up and the last three bolts are really easy.

P3: 5.9. 25 meters. 8 + 2 bolts.

The money pitch. 3rd to 4th bolt crux move is still disputed being between 5.7 to

5.10a, depending on who you ask! Watch for the fall between the crux bolts. One case of ankle injury from here.

The crux feels no harder than 5.7/5.8, if you get the beta right.

P4: 5.9. 37 meters. 9 + 2 bolts.

The long slab pitch, with crackling rock under your feet. Just get done with it!

Another rope length of exposed scrambling to the top out.

Exit: If you plan on abseiling, the 4th pitch has significant rope drag (once it took me 40 minutes to clean the rope!) Rest of the pitches are fine to rap off of.

Walk off, instead. After topping out, angle slightly right and walk another few hundred feet to the top of the plateau. If your first time, plan for an hour or two of hike out. Walk down the eastern ridge of Achalu.

Route credit: Dini, Prani & Seema. 2017

About 15-20 meters to the right of Broomberg. Just another slab route. A bit chossy.

Route credit: Dini, Prani & Seema. 2017

7 bolts/crack + 2. Crack takes #1 & #2 cams.

About 30-40 meters to the right of Broomberg.

The crux is just after the 7th bolt. Stay right of the bolts.

Route credit: Dini, Prani & Seema. 2017.

Approach is a bit of an adventure, and especially since it is seldom climbed.

Gear: 60-meter rope, 14 draws plus anchoring gear.

One of the few bolted routes in Bangalore, which has both the visual appeal and provides for quality climbing.

P1: 5.10b. 30 meters. 12-14 + 2 bolts

Delightful pitch, with crimpy start, and then some nice moves on jugs and crimps. Unlike what you would find in the slab town of Bangalore.

P2: 5.11d. 30 meters. 12-14 + 2 bolts

First half is similar in nature to P1, with one mildly overhanging section. The second half just after the roof turns into yet another slab fest. In the words of Sandeep Maity, it is the first time, he had to use his hands to ‘smear’ at the same time as his feet!

P3: 5.10c. 30 meters. 12-14 + 2 bolts

The first half till the slab is again delightful moves, then it turns into the usual slab climbing on crimps and tiny pinches. Less intimidating slab than the P2.

Exit Rap or Top out. If topping out, additional anchor station exists, after another 20 feet, angled right. But you could simply walk further back and hip belay your partner up.

Route credit: Karthik Vijayakumar, Sunny Jamshedji, Amit Manikoth, Subhash Sundaravadivelu, Nimalan Duraiswamy, Abhijit, Ram, Mohit Oberoi. 2018.

FFA: Bharath Gowda & Deepu Gowda. Bharath has some quality FFAs around Bangalore, including at Raogodlu, Avathi, and Golladhani Konda