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Moso

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 9
  • Aka: موسو

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Summary

A small crag with some nicely bolted routes. The crag is still being developed and there are not many anchors. Cleaning the routes is problematic.

Description

Covered in shade from midday onwards. The crag is not well developed and most routes do not have an anchor. Do yourself a favour and bring a bailout biner. Better yet, bring some equipment and bolt in new anchors.

Access issues

Unsealed road but easily accessible on any sedan. Does NOT require 4wd access.

Approach

A short 30-45min drive from Urmia CBD. The last 1km is on unsealed road but easily accessible on any vehicle. From Urmia, head south towards the town of "Balanej". Head on Mehabad road towards "Bozorg Abad". Take the first right hand turn and continue on the road for another km. You'll see the crag. Park next to it and walk up.

Where to stay

The crag is close to Urmia. Stay there.

Ethic

There are birds nesting in the cave. Be very mindful of their nest and their chicks. Do not light fire in the cave as the smoke impacts the wildlife.

Routes

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Grade Route

Easy slab climbing. Be mindful of the tree roots to the right of the anchor.

Easy climb with no real crux. Easy finish to the right, or power up to the left for a more spicey finish.

Nice line, straight up. Easier on the left of the draws.

Climb on the face, power traverse to under the roof and then climb up and traverse left. No anchor so cleaning it is a nightmare.

Nice easy multi-pitch up the face. Great rest half way up. Cruxy move on a good crimper and then easy climb to the first anchor. Not sure where the second anchor is.

First route at the very right hand lip of the cave.

STRONGLY recommended to (you MUST. Bolts will be removed soon) stop at the 4th bolt (as drawn in the route diagram) as a bird has nested in the rock hole past this bolt. Powerful traverse on overhanging section. Be VERY mindful of the other bird nest to the far right of the second and below the third bolt.

Where else will you get an opportunity to practice, crimps, pockets, sloppers, toe-heel lock, overhead undercling, and a knee bar, all in one climb?

2nd route inside the cave. Start 1m left of Khoffash. Gorgeous route, overhang all the way on beautiful pockets. Find the knee bar and make your send an easy one (if you're tall). Shorter senders may benefit from a right hand variant to the final bolt. No anchor makes it an absolute b*&$h to clean! Be nice and bring a bailout biner...

New open project. Likely finishes at the same last bolt as Holoo (no anchor!) Be nice and bring a bailout biner...

Appears to be an unfinished/semi-bolted route. Needs some love and imagination.

Last route on the far left hand lip of the cave. Easy start leads to a powerful traverse to the lip of the cave. Engage toes or heels to make life easier. Practice your hangboard game for the next move and knee in for some rest. Finish at the rusted chain.

2m to the left of Taalaan. The very first route on the left side of the cave, on the outside.

Legend has it a French couple came in and bolted this beauty! Gorgeous climb with shiny new bolts. Beautiful and long, no real crux but some may find the traverse to the crack a bit exciting.

The last line of the crag. Starts 2m left of the French. Appears to share the same anchor at the top with French.

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Thu 27 Jul
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