Routes in Central Section for selected grade

Start at bottom right hand side of the cave below 'Albatross', Climb the obvious diagonal crack leftwards to reach a sloping ledge below a square recess. Hand traverse left to a 2nd recess above the arete. Continue round corner towards ledge and finish straight up as for 'Aquamarine'.

2 meters to the right of 'High and Dry' at the top of the steep ramp, climb the full crag height hand crack, direct with and excellent wee crux mid height.

As you walk in for 'Saco' et al, on the upper approach, this is the first bit of rock that gains any worthwhile height on the right. With 3 right-to-left trending breaks.

From the start of the previous 3 Routes, Traverse out seaward along the superb horizontal hand crack and out onto the main seaward wall. Ascend the first and easiest way to the summit on monster jugs and gear up a huge chimney/groove.

From the starting belay at North end of crag, traverse the obvious horizontal break (as for 'Magical Mystery Tour') and continue along break, (foot traverse) out southward along main sea face, finaly ascend the hand crack between 'Magical Mystery Tour' and 'Rain Stopped Play' to the summit.

Rain Stopped Play HS 4B 30m * FA I. Miller, E. Wallace, M. Bonner 16/06/09 From the starting belay at North end of crag, traverse the obvious horizontal break (as for 'Magical Mystery Tour') and continue along break, (foot traverse) out southward along main sea face, finaly ascend the hand crack 2 mtr left of 'Noble Steed' to the summit.

Abseil to the wee tidal stance at the southern end of the sea wall, immediately before it steps down to the lower platform. From this restricted wee stance climb direct to the summit through the roof on superb rock and holds.

At the far right of 'Albatross Seawall' the crag turns 90 degrees into 'Albatross Zawn', climb this excellent corner at the junction of the two crags.

Approach the crag from the right, go down a ramp and traverse left to reach a cave low in the centre and belay. Escape dramatically up left over the overhang and then follow the crack directly above.

Climb the right trending crack immediately right of 'Deep Cut Crack'.

Climb the deep black groove 2m left of 'Autumn Groove', at half height pull out left onto the steep face and follow the superb left trending jug crack to the summit.

Climb the deepest, darkest and widest crack/chimney on the crag.

The crag is split by a deep chimney with a capping chock stone. Walk into and squirm up into the depth, continue thrutching until daylight.

A metre to the left of ‘Howling Chimney’ climb the superb jugs to a small stance and continue direct to top.

At the far right or Southern end of the crag climb the shallow chimney with a tricky exit.

Climb the groove 2 metres to the right of ‘Black Gold,’ with a cheeky steep crux.

Climb the thinner/steeper left trending hand crack, 3m right of and parallel to ‘Left Hand Path'.

Climb the arete 2nd left from ‘The Vice’ groove, steeper than it looks.

Climb the corner as for ‘Iron Man’, step right at it's top onto a airy stance on the seaward face. Climb the deep crack to an involved mantle onto the ledge above and up to the summit.

Climb the right wall of the wide chimney to the left of ‘An Scaith’.

Start a little over 1m. R. of 'Cith is Dealain'. Climb straight up on good holds to the foot of a short, steep section. Pull over this and move up to the top of a block below a short, smooth slab, just L of a huge boulder. Up the slab (crux) to the top.

Climb the next corner to the right of ‘Stira’, reach up to good hold at the blank looking start. Climb up using corner and breaks on the face. Step up and left to a ledge and mantle straight up from there to top.

Start about 7 m L of the L-hand side of the wedge-shaped cliff, at the foot of the arete between ‘Ward Off the Ozzies’ on the R and the ‘Pikie Groove’ on the on the Left. Climb the arete.

Climb the thin right trending cracks to the right of the ‘Cruitical Moves’ Arete.

Climb the groove with a mini roof at half height, a metre or so to the left of ‘Ward of the Ozzies’, groove.

Climb the thin groove between ‘Pommies Groove’ and ‘Ward of the Ozzies’.

Three metres left of ‘4 April Fools’, climb next narrow corner and crack to the top.

This, and the following routes, are accessed via the above mentioned access gully. The first corner beyond the ‘Bulge’ climb 2 metres to overhang, and move up over 6 steps to the top.

This climb follows the narrow chimney about 6M R of the wedge-shaped cliff, the first chimney encountered when approaching from the boulder beach behind cottage.

Gain the chimney, which is climbed, mostly internally, to the top.

Climb the very exposed left arete.

Starting as for ‘Last Zinken’ at the base of this steep arete, climb the right trending crack to a steep wee stance and follow the left trending ‘V’ cracks to the summit.

From the huge semi submerged boulder at the entrance to ‘Silly Children’, gain the white spike on wall above and continue up on fine flutings of immaculate granite, trending slightly right to the highest point of the crag.

From the entrance to ‘Silly Children’, traverse just above the high water mark out toward the sea to a wee stance below the left facing corner. Continue seaward making a rising traverse and hand traverse out along an immaculate quartz jug rail to the far end of the crag.

Climb the corner crack up the left of the inverted triangle of white rock and continue up the center of the triangle.

From the rock island climb the full crag height right trending crack.

2m left of the V notch, make hard moves direct up the wall and up the steepening to the summit.