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Routes in Gruppo del Catinaccio for selected grade

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Showing all 10 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Torri del Vajolet Torre Stabeler
{UIAA} 5 Variante Vinatzer (Via Fehrmann)
1 5 35m
2 4- 30m
3 4+ 25m
4 5 20m
5 4 40m
  1. Scramble up the grey blocky rocks to the base of the crack. Clip the cemented piton anchor. Follow the crack, interrupted by small overhangs, up to the belay (3 pitons). (35 m, V)

  2. Diagonally to the left, then up to the dihedral/gully that you follow until an overhang forces you to move slightly to the right. Follow the short dihedral that ends on a ledge with the belay (2 bolts, chain & ring). (30m, IV-)

  3. Reach the dihedral to the left of the belay and follow it. At its end, a gully leads to a ledge with a small cave. Move a little to the right to the belay (2 bolts). (25m, IV+)

  4. Climb directly above the cave, following the crack on the left. (2 pitons). (20m, V)

  5. Follow the dihedral gully up to the saddle. Along the ridgeline you reach the top of Torre Stabeler with the anchor (cemented piton). (40m, IV)

Trad 150m, 5
{UIAA} 5+ Via Emmerich
1 4 25m
2 4+ 25m
3 5+ 30m
4 5+ 35m
  1. overcome the overhang above the belay, then continue on simpler rocks in a slight oblique to the right up to the belay (glue in bolts x2 and ring). (25m, IV, 1 piton, 1 bolt)

  2. Diagonal to the right in the direction of a black corner that you follow for a few meters. Traverse the slab to the left, bypassing a yellow overhang and climb up to the comfortable belay at the base of the overhanging yellow wall (glue in bolts x2 and ring OR old belay on 3 pitons). (25m, IV+)

  3. Climb the dihedral above the belay until below the overhang; traverse for about 2 meters to the right and pass it. Above this, follow some easier blocks to the anchor (glue-in bolts x2 + ring). (30m, V+/IV A0, 12 pitons, some dodgy).

  4. Climb the slab (unprotected) aiming for the obvious left slanting chimney at the end, which goes to the belay (2 bolts + chain). (35m, V+, 8 pitons, 1 intermediate anchor)

Trad 120m, 4
Cima Catinaccio Parete Est
{UIAA} 5+ Via Fantasia

FA: Marino Dall'Oglio & Emilio Dorati, 1948

FA: Antonio Bernard & Mario Vigo, 1991

Sport 600m, 19
Cima Catinaccio Punta Emma
{UIAA} 5+ South-East Face, "Steger"
1 3+ 45m
2 2 45m
3 4 45m
4 4 25m
5 5 15m
6 5+ 30m
7 5+ 25m
8 4+ 35m
9 3 50m

FA: Hans Steger & Paula Wiesinger, 1929

Trad 320m, 9
{UIAA} 5 Fedele
1 4+ 30m
2 5 25m
3 4 40m
4 5 30m
5 5 40m
6 4+ 30m
7 4+ 40m

FA: Fedele Bernard & Giorgio Masé-Dari, 1929

Trad 240m, 7
{UIAA} 5 Piaz Crack
1 2 25m
2 4- 30m
3 4- 25m
4 5 25m
5 4- 35m
6 4- 30m
7 4- 35m
8 3 130m
9 1 50m

FA: Piaz, 1900

Trad 390m, 9
Torre Edwards
{UIAA} 5+ A0 Via del gracchio
1 4- 45m
2 5- 45m
3 5- 20m
4 1 25m
5 5- 40m
6 4 28m
7 4+ 28m
8 5+ A0 25m

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/TORRE%20EDWARDS_Gracchio_A.htm

FA: 2005

Trad 260m, 8
Roda de Vaèl Parete Est
{UIAA} 5+ Via Rizzi
1 3 20m
2 4 33m
3 4 35m
4 5+ 45m
5 4 40m
6 4- 43m
7 3 45m
8 4- 45m
9 3 25m
10 4- 35m

FA: G.Rizzi, R.Finker & F.Pederiva, 1947

Trad 370m, 10
{UIAA} 5 Via Battisti/Plank concatenamento
1 2 42m
2 3 23m
3 4 32m
4 3+ 33m
5 4 35m
6 3+ 50m
7 5 28m
8 4- 42m
9 4- 40m
10 4- 40m
11 4- 42m

FA: G.Plank, 1912

FA: G.Battisti & D.Colli, 1982

Trad 410m, 11
Roda de Vaèl Parete Ovest
{UIAA} 5/5+ Casarotto

FA: R. Casarotto, 1978

Trad 450m, 9

Showing all 10 routes.

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