Ascents in Valle del Sarca

FFA.

#FFA

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUj0kSuj_dK

Adam Ondra's instagram

Such a cool route from Stefano Ghisolfi! Fell from the very top once because the good heel hook broke but luckily found some new (bit harder but not grade changing) beta and send the next go. Took me two 2 day trips to Arco, first one with horrible conditions though. Might come back for the Lonely Mountain which is basically the same route with four different moves and also just as hard in my opinion, let's see. I like to come to Arco so why not

FFA.

1st repetition, Kletterblock.de reported

Description of the ascent by Adam Ondra on 8a.nu: "amazing line, one of the best in the grade. Great vision by David for bolting and lot of work by Gabri to clean and send it. I found a kneebar just before the crux that makes the route a bit easier, but still 9a+ for sure. The way that Gabri it did is pretty hard for 9a+ for sure! I tried it some years ago when it was still a project and totally dirty, this year I was really close to sending first day, but in the end I had to wait for another day with fresh skin and power when I did it on my first real go of the day."

Project Beginning is no more a project, the beginning of a new "normality" already started and climbing this route is the best way for me to begin dreaming again. Too hard to be just 9a, but too easy to be 9a+, the new route in Eremo di San Paolo is "Beginning"! Read more on Instagram #FA

Cool connection of St. Anger and Zauberfee basically connecting both hard parts making it 8c+ into 8c+ with a crazy feet first knee bar rest in between. Had some trouble with wet holds but somehow pulled through. Definitely a hard 9a maybe 9a/9a+ is fair not sure.

Climbed in 9 tries.

#2ndgo maybe 8c+/9a with kneepad

2nd Go, 8c+ is more appropriate than 9a in my opinion

#2nd go

2nd Go after checking it out once 2 weeks ago. Hard to grade since it‘s just a really long climb with many rests and no crazy crux. Could be 8c+ I think or at least 8c+/9a 🤔

Checked it out a cuple of weeks ago and send it 2nd go today, somehow felt much stronger even in the sun. Psyched!

#2go

Regarding the grade, 8c+/9a is the better also in comparisson to the other routes at the crag and in Arco.

8c+/9a

5th Go. 3rd Ascent