Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
7a+ | ||||||||
6c+ 7a+ | ★ Lupo Alberto | 40m | Nago | ★ Good | Mon 5th May 2014 | |||
Pitch one only 6c+, crimps
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7a+ | ★★ Rosencrantz | 16m | Nago | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th May 2014 | |||
'Flashed' on TR, maybe I should start at this grade and dispense with the 6b lot....steep but juggy start, and then some cool underclings
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7a+ | ★ Dolphinger | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★ Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
Short crux sequence, not a great plan on the 10th route of the day
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7a | ||||||||
7a | ★★ Avana | 14m | Valle del Sarca | Average | Sat 10th May 2014 | |||
Found it reachy, and sharp. End of the day mistake.
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7a | ★★ Severance | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Tue 13th May 2014 | ||||
One attempt. A long move off an undercling. Some good sequences.
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7a | ★★ Coppa Del Nonno | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Thu 15th May 2014 | ||||
Did the cruxy start ok, sorted the cruxy roof, but the cruxy finish was very tricky, ended up mcdougalling a bit right.
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7a | ★ Rayleh rayleh | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★ Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
Again, some damp holds, but avoidable.
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7a | ★★★ Toleranza zero — 2 attempts | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | |||
Started up in new climbing shoes and had to swap at the hands free rest, but still managed to fall off after at mid crux. Worked out a better sequence for the mid crux for height. on sighted the start and end cruxes.
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5a |
★★ Fantaghirò
1
5a
10
Warm up | 10m, 13 | La Falesia Dimenticata | Tue 5th Sep 2023 | ||||
7a |
★★ Die Langweilige
1
6a
18m
Greasy
2
7a
18m
Had to rest when pulling roof. I think I was doing it the hard left hand way, but maybe I was just weak. The rest of the route was fine. | 36m | Höhlensteintal | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||
6c+ | ||||||||
6c+ | ★ Cassio | 20m | Nago | Fri 9th May 2014 | ||||
Interesting sequences on sharpshooter pockets, but not too bad.
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6c+ | ★★ Estremi Rimedi | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Tue 13th May 2014 | ||||
Lead it, but crux off large ledge and not game to commit. Less scary on top rope.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Vita Da Corridoio | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th May 2014 | ||||
Arête slapping fun
|
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6c+ | ★ Diedrinolo | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★ Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
Wet pockets. This crag is probably super in late summer.
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Wat arun | 30m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
A long corner that overhung about 5 metres.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Number one | 20m, 11 | La Falesia Dimenticata | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Sep 2023 | |||
Pocketssss, just lovely and the new shoes are feeling better
|
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6c+ | ★★ E il diedro — 3 attempts | 30m | Sottosassa | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||
Had to stray onto the 7a to get the bottom section clean which included a full on dead point. Super hard moves. The second half dihedral was more grade 21.
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6c | ||||||||
6b 6c | ★★ Papa Giovanni Paolo II | 260m, 13 | Piz Ciavazes | ★ Good | Tue 30th Aug 2005 | |||
Great location. Nice safe bolts. Easy crux pitch, OS.
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6c | ★★ Without name | 15m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th May 2014 | |||
Actually a nice climb but still scarily bolted
|
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6c | ★★ Fuori Orario | 15m | Nago | ★ Good | Thu 8th May 2014 | |||
Took dave and me 10 goes between us to tick this mega sandbag
|
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6c | ★★★ Ramon king of lead | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Sat 10th May 2014 | |||
Nice to be on a tufa.
|
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6c | ★★ Cornetto (Cometto) | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th May 2014 | ||||
Nice start, middle and end, quite goey at the end.
|
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6c | ★★ Bagoi | 25m | Breguzzo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | |||
The Sandinista of Breguzzo, about 5m overhanging. My crack glove tried to reject doing a sports route, I got spiders down my t shirt and there was some type of poo in some of the pockets. Great journey!
|
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6c | ★★ Lo scorpione | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | |||
Nice varied and technical route, no real sting in the tail, but a few of cruxy sequences below
|
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6c |
★★ Il buon caffè
1
4b
10m
Warm up he stemming muscles
2
6c
12m
Burly but ok once I had found some of the holds | 22m, 14 | La Falesia Dimenticata | Tue 5th Sep 2023 | ||||
6b |
★★ Hexentanz P1
1
6b
8m
Too close to route to left making it escapable at crux (contrived direct, and hard for 6 b) but I did it both ways to cover the bases. | 8m | Höhlensteintal | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | ||||
6b+ | ||||||||
6b+ | ★★ Golder Steat (Golder Stveat) | 24m, 8 | Pian Schiavaneis | ★ Good | Thu 25th Aug 2005 | |||
OS, pumpy for a slab
|
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6b+ | ★★ Il Fachiro | 20m | Nago | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th May 2014 | |||
Nice sequence through bulges
|
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6b+ | ★★ Guildenstern | 30m | Nago | ★ Good | Fri 9th May 2014 | |||
Nice long pitch without too much polish
|
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6b+ | ★ Elena | 15m | Nago | Crap | Fri 9th May 2014 | |||
Maybe I'm just over slippery polished sandbag 6bs
|
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6b+ | ★ Angy queen of lead | 20m | Valle del Sarca | Crap | Sat 10th May 2014 | |||
Glued together flaky rubbish
|
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6a+ 6b+ | ★★ Anna queen of boulder | 20m | Valle del Sarca | Average | Sat 10th May 2014 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Marija queen of speed | 18m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Sat 10th May 2014 | |||
Top 2/3 is good after crumbly start
|
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6b+ | ★★ Renato Butta La Pasta | 24m | Nago | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th May 2014 | |||
Preplaced draws. Not slippery and not sandbagged too badly.
|
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6b+ | ★ Spavaldo | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Tue 13th May 2014 | ||||
Sometimes watching Dave's approach has not been helpful. Quite reachy even using my own beta.
|
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6b+ | Liuk | 15m | Valle del Sarca | Don't Bother | Thu 15th May 2014 | |||
Contrived crap.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Camillino | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Thu 15th May 2014 | ||||
A little escapable in parts
|
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6b+ | ★★ Lampo Di Fulmine | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Thu 15th May 2014 | ||||
Avoid the ugly sharp start, and enjoy the rest of the climb
|
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6b+ | ★★ Mitildi | 20m | Breguzzo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | |||
I thought this was as hard as the 6c, nice varied route. Having the anchor draw on definitely helped
|
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6b+ | ★ Il nido de ragno | 25m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | |||
Nice varied route, a little bit of dodgy rock up top
|
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6b+ | ★★ Via Per Stefano Vidi | 20m, 12 | La Falesia Dimenticata | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Sep 2023 | |||
More nice pockets
|
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6b+ ~6c | ★★ Delta | 20m | Comano Terme | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Sep 2023 | |||
Greased off the start, which was quite reachy first go. Didn’t want to have to repeat so after getting through it second go fought my way to anchors. Maybe 21 if you do laps on it to warm up but hard onsighting
|
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6b+ | ★ DNA | 19m | Città dei Sassi | ★ Good | Mon 11th Sep 2023 | |||
I think this was the one I was on, as had no guidebook. Was good from half way though a bit dirty in places, but at least it wasn’t polished. Mucked up bouldery start to hidden hold.
|
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6b+ |
★★ Chernobyl
1
5c
28
Did PM instead then continued up past final bolt of this to belay
2
6a+
30
Go straight up to roof past 2 bolts then hand traverse right under roof ( rock fax topo quite poor for route)
3
6a+
29
After exiting the short chimney at the second bolt I missed the next 2 bolts which were off to the right and got back to one above them, exciting! Thought this pitch was also 6 b
4
6b
30
More nice climbing on some old bolts
5
6b+
23
Fantastic steep finale. | 140m | Sass Dlacia | ★★★ Classic | Tue 12th Sep 2023 | |||
Started on PM as first pitch. Liked all the pitches. Would have done more routes here but sun had hit has by the time we abseiled. 60 m rope needed minimum.
|
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6b+ ~6b | ★★ Nigge-Kante | 24m | Höhlensteintal | ★ Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||
I think it’s even soft for 6b, compared to other routes here.
|
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6b | ||||||||
6a 6b | ★★ Walter lasa star i ciodi (Unknown to L of Walter LAsa)) | 24m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Mon 5th Sep 2005 | |||
nice low section
|
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6c 6b | ★★ Varda che Vista (Guard de vista) | 24m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Sep 2005 | |||
balancy, thin, TR redpoint! did it with first 3 draws clipped
|
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6b | ★★ Walter lasa star i ciodi (Walter Lasa) | 24m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Sep 2005 | |||
OS
|
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6b | Prima Erede | 24m | Valle del Sarca | Don't Bother | Mon 5th Sep 2005 | |||
impossible, had to aid, 3 other good climbers couldnt do it either? lost holds
|
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6b | ★ Turtles | 27m, 10 | Pian Schiavaneis | ★ Good | Thu 25th Aug 2005 | |||
Fl,2 cruxes, pretty nice
|
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6a 6b | ★★ Giuditta | 18m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Sep 2005 | |||
OS, still great sdespite the polish
|
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6b | ★★ tobai | 16m | Cansla | ★★ Very Good | Thu 25th Aug 2005 | |||
dog, no way, much much harder
|
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6b | ★★ Aquilante | 20m | Nago | ★ Good | Mon 5th May 2014 | |||
A short boulder problem really, but made the mistake of thinking there would be better holds on a 6 b
|
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6b | ★★ Esodo | 30m | Nago | Average | Mon 5th May 2014 | |||
If this had been grade 23 and had 5 more bolts it may have been realistic. Not recommend as a 'must do'
|
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6b | ★ Chiedi A Beppo | 15m | Nago | ★ Good | Thu 8th May 2014 | |||
My bravery molecules are low on these polished sandbags
|
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6b | ★★ Buttress | 15m | Nago | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th May 2014 | |||
About grade 23, only survived with Dave's beta
|
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6c+ | ★★ Lago | 20m | Nago | ★ Good | Fri 9th May 2014 | |||
A 6 b that actually felt within the grade range.
|
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6a+ 6b | Via Del Biscotto | 24m | Nago | Crap | Mon 12th May 2014 | |||
As unattractive and slippery as an olive oil enema.
|
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6b | ★★ Patatina Fritta | 24m | Nago | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th May 2014 | |||
About grade 22. Nice moves and not too polished. Harder than route to right.
|
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6b | ★★ Warm Up | 16m | Nago | ★ Good | Mon 12th May 2014 | |||
A steep little unit. Warm down.
|
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6b | ★★ Cremino | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th May 2014 | |||
Finally, a pleasant crag with good bolting, not too much polish, and only slightly sandbagged grades.
|
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6b | Il Terzo Sesso | Valle del Sarca | Average | Tue 13th May 2014 | ||||
I didn't like this one much, but probably because I came off the bouldery start 3 times.
|
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6b | ★ Per fottere il potere | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★ Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
Do the move to the anchor rather than clip from undercling
|
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6b | ★★★ Raperonzolo | 22m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
A bit dusty. Got suckered into a sucker pocket
|
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6b | ★★ Luna | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★ Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
Some damp ledges, but good moves. Guidebook info regarding crux seems quite wrong
|
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6b | ★★ Volion curva | 15m | Croz de le Niere | ★★ Very Good | Wed 30th Aug 2023 | |||
Liked this one up the pocketed wall. One reachy sequence I had to figure out.
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6b | ★★ L'unico vizio de me fiol | 15m | Val d'Algone | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | ||||
A bit dusty, hard final moves
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6b | Pilotu | 25m | Brenta Alta | Don't Bother | Mon 4th Sep 2023 | |||
Sharp start and moves off ledge have cratering potential. Pulled up stick clip for ledge protection
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6b | ★★ Brigot | 26m | Brenta Alta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 4th Sep 2023 | |||
The rock is a bit ordinary down low, but excellent movement, varied climb, technical in places and pumpy start. Generally overhanging.
|
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6b | Bonet | 27m | Brenta Alta | Average | Mon 4th Sep 2023 | |||
Bouldery start, not impressed by rock until up high. Great scenery though.
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6b | ★★ Placca motoria | 20m | Sass Dlacia | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Sep 2023 | |||
Our start to Chernobyl. A good warm up due to some nice rest stances between the pocket pulling.
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6b ~6b+ | ★★ Sandmännchen | 32m | Höhlensteintal | ★ Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||
I thought I was on the 6c, and it didn’t feel that far off.
|
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6b | ★ Leviti crack | 17m | Sottosassa | ★ Good | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||
Nice enough, had the jamming gloves on
|
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6a+ to 6b | ||||||||
6a ~6b | ★ Mateo Piccolo | 14m | Città dei Sassi | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Aug 2005 | |||
OS,what a sandbag, at least Grade 22.
|
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6a+ | ||||||||
6b+ 6a+ | ★★★ Alice Nel Paese dei Balocchi (Alice Nel Paese) | 23m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Sep 2005 | |||
OS easy flake lay back crux!
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6a+ | ★★ No Zeder | 12m | Cansla | ★★ Very Good | Thu 25th Aug 2005 | |||
Fl,nice crux
|
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6a+ | ★★ Shun besser | 12m, 6 | Città dei Sassi | ★ Good | Sat 27th Aug 2005 | |||
OS, pumpy
|
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6b 6a+ | ★ Firminik | 20m | Nago | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th May 2014 | |||
Hard and run out
|
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6a+ | Cavoli tui | 17m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Tue 6th May 2014 | |||
The bottom is about 7a with the polish, the top is still quite nice
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Ruggero Lo Perfido | 23m | Nago | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th May 2014 | |||
A nice climb that actually felt like the right grade and had decent bolting
|
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6a 6a+ | ★★ Medea | 25m | Nago | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th May 2014 | |||
Was great except for anchor placement for short. Send tall partner up to put QuickDraw on or have a tantrum like I did.
|
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6a+ | ★ Qixin king of speed | 18m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Sat 10th May 2014 | |||
Hard start
|
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6a+ | ★ Spettacolo | 20m | Nago | ★ Good | Mon 12th May 2014 | |||
Nice defined cruxes and not too polished.
|
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6a 6a+ | ★ Piume Di Struzzo (Piume Di Dtruzzo) | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Tue 13th May 2014 | ||||
Felt hard as the warm up
|
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6a+ | ★★ Via dei Talebani | 18m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
Lots of foot movements
|
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6a+ | ★ Prenzip | 18m | Breguzzo | ★ Good | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | |||
Some nice pockets, but just too many ways to go
|
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6a+ | ★★ Pipot — 2 attempts | 25m | Brenta Alta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 4th Sep 2023 | |||
Unexpected foot slip on first attempt. Came down and then went up. Nice movement
|
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6a+ ~6b | ★ Dritdreiciodi | 16m | Comano Terme | ★ Good | Thu 7th Sep 2023 | |||
Grade 20 I reckon, unless you Mc Dougall right badly. A bit polished
|
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6a+ |
★★ Via Gino Bellumat
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 200m | Palla del Guide | Fri 8th Sep 2023 | ||||
Pleasant and fairly low stress outing on a hot day getting used to altitude and embracing life whilst Preserving knees. Well conceived route, reasonably bolted. Linked 2 and 3 and 4 and 5.
|
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6a+ |
★★ Indian Summer
1
6a
40m
We started on first bolt of Legoland then joined Indian summer. Quite cold at the start.
2
6a
40m
3
6a
30m
I liked this pitch the best, straight up on amazing pockets
4
5c
30m
Didn’t feel any easier than the rest of the route.
5
6a+
20m
You traverse right off the belay for about 4m, topo implied otherwise
6
6a+
20m
Quite a steep crack, some good moves.
7
6a
20m
The corner crack | 200m | Parte Oscura della Luna | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||
Pretty nice route, especially for a hot day. Seems like Rockfax digital is out of date for access and descent. The descent to the left has a washed away gully after a downclimb to contend with, but I guess we got to go canyoning as well as climb.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Tizi | 19m | Città dei Sassi | Crap | Mon 11th Sep 2023 | |||
Polished rubbish. Feet slipped numerous times and the bolts are spaced enough as is.
|
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6a |
★★ Kinderspiel
1
5b
8m
2
6a
9m
Unfortunately the bolt matrix on this wall detracts from the climbing, I followed this middle pitch | 17m | Höhlensteintal | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | ||||
6a+ ~6b | ★★ Baum | 15m | Höhlensteintal | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||
Way harder than the 6 a+ to the right, which I have take liberty of down grading while upgrading this- took me about 10 minutes to commit to standing up off the ledge.
|
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6a+ | ★ Derok | 15m | Sottosassa | ★ Good | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||
A bit dirty, but very 3 d climbing, harder than 6a.
|
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6a+ | I bocce del paes | 17m | Sottosassa | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | ||||
Ok, but not sure what was “ in” so did bridge into crack on opposite wall
|
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6a to 6a+ | ||||||||
6a | ★★ Chatom em werk | 12m, 6 | Città dei Sassi | ★ Good | Sat 27th Aug 2005 | |||
Fl, great rock, nice line
|
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6a/a+ | ||||||||
6a+ | ★★ Schatten blume | 18m | Frea | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Aug 2005 | |||
Fl, threw for the victory jug
|
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6a | ||||||||
6a | ★★ vie Cun me | 12m | Cansla | ★★ Very Good | Thu 25th Aug 2005 | |||
Fl,lovely pockets
|
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6a | ★★ Over Booking | 18m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Tue 6th Sep 2005 | |||
crux at anchor, OS
|
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6a | ★★ Knabenkraute | 18m | Frea | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Aug 2005 | |||
OS, very scary mantle mid route on damp rock
|