Ascents in Pietra di Bismantova

big sadisfaction

Had a great morning making our way up this route. Got a little off track as I hadn't found any description in English. Note that the traverse goes left, not right. Each pitch ends with a big metal ring (which a small locker will not fit over) and if you aren't at that ring you are not done. I did the first pitch to the obvious anchor of a single pitch line and then had to adapt to continue.

Fantastic line with exquisite climbing. Chimney/dihedral from bottom to top, nevertheless varied climbing. The long first pitch was a great way to get used to the rock, although it was a little brittle and sandy on the first twenty meters. Start of the second pitch is described as the crux, but felt no more than a Saxon III when climbed as a friction chimney. Exhiliarating passage swinging around the tree, then a few meters of nice slab with a wall in the back to support and stem. Nice third pitch through another dihedral to the big ring (which is actually the belay, which I neglected and set up belay further up), squeeze through the narrow section and then a finish up the glorious, exposed open book corner to a comfy finishing chimney at the top.

slight overhang with positive holds. One of the best routes at SassoLungo

easy overhang with positive holds

Easy dihedral on big holds

One technical boulder between the first and third bolt, followed by a complete rest on the ledge, and another tricky sequence right after

5.11A 6B+

layback on not so good rock quality in the lower part. It joins the neighboring routes on the upper part

physical boulder on good holds at the start. It joins the neighboring routes on the upper part

The 2nd and 3rd spit are too far from each other: ridiculously dangerous

Loose rock between second and third bolt. One slightly harder move in the upper section. It felt easier than the other 6As and even 5Cs at this sector. Not a good route in my opinion

The first spit after the terrace and the last spit before the terrace are very far apart. I wouldn't do it without bridging the gap with some cams (that I didn't have) to avoid slinging in free fall from the left side all the way to the beginning.

Not safe enough imho, the bolt following the ledge can be reached with a 3m free solo. Might be ok with trad equipment.

For me this is the best route of Sassolungo sector. Slab climb down below, technical traverse on slopey feet at the top. It shares the anchor with the 6A on its right (stufaia)

5.10C 6A+

easy crack till a physical boulder on good holds at the top

5.10B 6A

Same start as "Stufaia", it splits right in the upper section. The crux is placing yourself on the ledge, less powerful than the other route, but certainly more technical