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Routes in Dente della Vecchia

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Showing all 9 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
West face
7a+ Motto – Ongaro 1
1 5c
2 7a+
3 6c+
4 5b

Set of cams up to nr 3 (B.D.). Four 10 mm bolts in the route. Fixed anchors. Nice athletic climbing mostly self protected.

FA: M. Motto & G. Ongaro, 2000

Mixed trad 130m, 5, 4
7a A0 Motto – Ongaro 2
1 6b+
2 6a
3 7a A0
4 6b

Nice athletic climbing, mostly self protected. One set of cams up to nr 3 (B.D.). Nine 10mm bolts in the route. Fixed anchors. Abseiling through the route.

FA: M. Motto & G. Ongaro, 2000

Mixed trad 140m, 4, 9
South face
{UIAA} 6 Champignon Merveilleux
1 5+
2 6
3 5+
4 5/5+

Nuts and cams up to nr 3 (B.D.) Two bolts in the route. Fixed anchors. Splendid slabs with big rocky mushrooms.

FA: T. Fazzini & S. Gianola, 1987

Mixed trad 110m, 4, 2
{UIAA} 6+ Nella Vecchia Fattoria
1 4
2 6-
3 5/5+
4 6+

Nuts and cams up to nr 3 (B.D.), some bolts and pitons in the route. Fixed anchors.

FA: G. Chiaffarelli & V. Peretto, 1989

Mixed trad 100m, 4, 4
East face
6a Milchzahn
1 6a
2 5c
3 3c
4 5b
5 5c+

6a obl. Nuts and cams up to nr 2 (B.D.). 10mm bolts in the route. Return through the route (or by foot on the ridge of Vecchia). Pitches 6a, 5c, 3c, 5b, 5c+. Source: Nichts als Granit, first edition, 2007

Mixed trad 230m, 5, 10
6a Polident
1 5b
2 5c+
3 4a
4 5b
5 5c+
6 6a
7 5c+

Pitches 5b, 5c+, 4a, 5b, 5c+, 6a, 5c+. Obligatory material: nuts and cams up to nr 2 (B.D:). 10mm bolts in the route, fixed anchors. Nice climbing with really nice slabs. Return through the route or by foot through the ridge of Vecchia. Source: Nichts als Granit, first edition, 2007

FA: L. Lanfranchi, M. Motto, G. Maspes & G. Ongaro, 1997

Mixed trad 270m, 7, 20
6b+ Godzilla
1 5a
2 5c
3 6b+
4 5a
5 5b
6 6a
7 5c+
8 5c+

6b+ (6a+ obl). Pitches: 5a, 5c, 6b+, 5a, 5b, 6a, 5c+, 5c+. Mostly sportly protected. Take small and middle cams. Varied line with a difficult roof in the entry section (A1) and a fascinating crux in vertical, well-structured wall. Return through the route or by foot through Vecchia ridge. Source: Nichts als Granit, first edition, 2007

FA: L. Fanfranchi, G. Maspes & M. Motto, 1998

Mixed trad 320m, 8, 20
5c+ Carmageddon
1 5c+
2 3b
3 4b
4 3b
5 5c+
6 5c+
7 5b

5c+ (5c obl.) Pitches 5c+, 3b, 4b, 3b, 5c+, 5c+, 5b. First four pitches sportly protected (10mm bolts, plaisir-type climbing), next three pitches going through vertical or slightly overhanging crack and have bolted anchors only. Take small and middle sized cams. One of the most popular routes in the area. Return through the route or by foot through the ridge of Vecchia.

FA: L. Lanfranchi, G. Maspes, M. Motto & A. Busca, 2000

Mixed trad 270m, 7, 20
6c Busca–Motto
1 5b
2 6b+
3 4b
4 3b
5 5c+
6 6c
7 5b

Pitches 5b, 6b+, 4b, 3b, 5c+, 6c, 5b. Four bolts in the route, fixed anchors. Cams up to nr. 4 (B.D.), two sets of middle ones. Nice but a little unhomogenous line with demanding and self-protected crack in the upper part. Return through the route or by foot through Vecchia ridge. Source: Nichts als Granit, first edition, 2007

FA: A. Busca & M. Motto, 2000

Mixed trad 260m, 7, 4

Showing all 9 routes.

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