description
As Randall describes it: "It's a very steep finger crack and packs a serious punch in not much distance. Amazing steep powerful finger locks, and a nice offwidth finish."
Route history
| Jun 2013 | First ascent:
Tom Randall "My style! Gear was placed on lead, with just a single nut protecting the crux and I climbed it on just a half rope to further save on weight! It was desperate |
|---|
."Warnings
Location
- Lat/Lon: 45.44846, 7.40854
Grade citation
| 8b+ | Assigned grade |
ethic
Renowned for its incredible crack systems, there is a predominantly clean climbing ethic in Valle Orco.
- Bolts
- are often placed for anchors & abseils, but are otherwise strongly discouraged where natural protection can be placed.
Even so, there are a fair number of sport/bolted climbs in the valley. Talk to local climbers/guides before considering putting in bolts, bolts are permanent.
Some classics crack climbs, bolted in mania of sport climbing in the 80's/90's, have since had their bolts removed.
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): P. Seimandi
Date: 2020
100 ausgewählten Rissklettereien von komplett durchgebohrt bis zu komplett selbst abzusichern - von 6 m bis hin zu 160 m.
Author(s): P. Seimandi
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9788894526516
A selective guidebook describing over 100 of the best crack climbs in the Orco Valley ranging in difficulty from F4c through to F8b, and from 6m to 160m long.
Author(s): M. Oviglia
Date: 2010
This climbing guide describes climbing gardens close to the valley as well as the well-known alpine walls of the Sergent, Caporal and at the Colle del Nivolet.
Accommodations nearby more Hide
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