Amazing maze, route finding challenge more than a climbing challenge.
Took around 10 hours round trip, even though we took a longer route on ridge, but we climbed the whole eye of allah route simul-climbing doing micro pitches.
Rock mostly solid (Rum standards)
The day was short, I wish I had one more hour to continue to the east summit, highly recommend sleeping at the top and continue the trip to the summit if you have the time.
Descent: Easiest way down is rap the eye of allah (short raps many places that could get the rope stuck) back to the siq, do one rap in the siq to reverse a hard boulder problem, then up and back up the chimney to Hammads route south, follow it down doing 2 raps to the hidden rocky gully (Took exactly 3 hours for a team of 4)
Swinging leads, all OS but for the crux, we both lead the crux pitch. Alomost flashed it but found my feet in the wrong position after the long move and was not able to resolve it. Only the crux pitch has an abundant number of bolts, while all others require some cams to bolster the few bolts or are enitrely clean.
Mit der Routenbeschreibung von Summitpost sehr gut machbar. Das Guidebook selbst ist sehr unschlüssig. Wir haben 13 Stunden für Auf und Abstieg gebraucht.
18 hours round trip, long and tiring day, and we knew the way. 38 Deg C. Climbing typically rumesk at the grade, about f5 max, led the first pitch in the dark. Lots of rope drag over the whole route, better to run it out, last pitch was the hardest due to fatigue and its meant to be 3. Descended via route, lots of abseils down to the great siq, keep them short to avoid stuck ropes. Youll be quicker if you are good at scrambling and moving fast through mountainous terrain and soloing small problems
- with
omar arnaout, Mahmoud Attal, Micheal
Took around 10 hours round trip, even though we took a longer route on ridge, but we climbed the whole eye of allah route simul-climbing doing micro pitches.
Rock mostly solid (Rum standards)
The day was short, I wish I had one more hour to continue to the east summit, highly recommend sleeping at the top and continue the trip to the summit if you have the time.
Descent: Easiest way down is rap the eye of allah (short raps many places that could get the rope stuck) back to the siq, do one rap in the siq to reverse a hard boulder problem, then up and back up the chimney to Hammads route south, follow it down doing 2 raps to the hidden rocky gully (Took exactly 3 hours for a team of 4)