Routes in Bouldering in Lukenya

Sit-start to the right of "Sit-start warm-up", with hands matched on the obvious lowest good holds. First move is the hardest, without fantastic feet, moving up to okay holds. Stay on the white streak to the right of the crack. Moves stay interesting at the top, still have to think about your feet and find the right holds - a nice V1.

Sit-start using same crimps as for Hatch crimp, but go left and up instead of right and up. Boulder below is off.

Stand-start. Up the arete on the left, getting feet high to top out whil avoiding the huge jugs on your right.

A fun and delicate climb up the left of the boulder. Start on same holds as for Kuku kienyeji, then move left and up using small holds and a sidepull to the top, always staying left of Chicken head holds. A good spot is needed to protect from the tree behind.

Far right of the boulder. Sit start with you right hand on the rail and left hand on an undercling jug. Powerful moves up to a crimp and then the overhanging rail, before topping out on the same finish as Laura.

Sit-start at the left end of the boulder, near the scramble up and down. Start with left and right hands in two great underclings under the bulge, with not great feet. First move is hardest, to a decent hold above the bulge, then up on better holds from there.

Sit-start on the big blocky holds low down, mantle this staying on the arete rather than the slab to the right, delicately reach holds on top of the boulder and muscle up to top out.

Up the middle of the boulder. Sit-start with hands in the horizontal crack about halfway up. Straight up through tensiony, crimpy moves. Short but fun problem, requiring a good sequence to climb it well.

Stand-start up to a big blocky hold. Up past this on crimps, keep your head for the high, slabby finish.

Stand-start, delicate moves up the face, then easily over the top block.

Same start as Joker but goes right out of roof and up the short face to the top.

Highball. Start as for Leonardo, but then move right to exit through the right side of the overhang, without using the arete for hands or feet.

Just left of Sit-Start Pull Cross. Sit-start matched on a small rounded crimp (right and up from a more crumbly hold), with feet low. Slightly powerful first move up and right to a good sloping hold, then straight up through interesting moves.

Sit-start on the right of boulder, with hands on crimps in the horizontal rail. Go up and right to another crimp then better holds above to top out. Boulder below is off.

Up the middle of the boulder. Stand-start with a high right foot, right hand on small crimpy sidepull and left hand on small cramp. Get horizontal, bump up twice with left hand (hard moves) then an easy finish.

Start with right hand on good crimp and left on your choice of bad holds lower down. Pick between two poor choices of of foot beta and make two moves to the lip and top out. The sit-start from the two lowest crimps remains to be done.

Sit-down start on good rail, moves up the rail and over the lip. Avoid dabbing on the tree that is directly under you.

On the boulder with a tree in front of it just to the right of Nightcrawler.

To the right of Moja Maker, up the face. Stand-stat with hands matched in a good diagonal crack but with poor feet. Find your way up the face on more decent holds and more poor feet before reaching jugs for both.

Stand-start. Up the middle of the slabby section of the boulder, good practice for finding feet and smearing on slabs.

Good slab climbing exercise. Go straight up the middle of the small slab from standing, relying on friction and small pebbles.

Up the middle of the boulder on small, sharp crimps. Finish straight up.

Start matched on the decent rail on the far right of the boulder. Couple powerful first moves up to the lip, then use holds a bit further right for a tricky mantle. Short but esthetic line.

To the right of Jack. Sit-down start matched on the thin edge, powerful moves up and to the right out of the roof then left up the short pace. Amazing, precise moves!

Problem on the left of the boulder. Sit-start on the lowest crimp and work your way up using a little flake and footwork.

Quite tall but on good holds the whole way. On the rock to the right of the big crack and much taller face, on the side of the lower boulder facing the hillside. Stand-start on crimps, with feet up off the lower boulder on not great feet. First move is hardest, then easier to the top.

Lovely problem with some intricate, delicate moves up the face of the slab. Stand-start on the right of the face with hand on opposing sidepulls at about shoulder height, and feet on a low obvious thin ledge. Work your way left and up to a balancy finish. Bit easier for the tall.

Up the arete on the right.

The sit-start to Machungwa. Start on the two low crimps down and right, hard scrunched-up move up and left to the start hold of Machungwa, and finish straight up. Harder for the tall.

Up the easiest part of the boulder with lots of textured holds and good feet. Stand-start. Good for first-timers outside or for a quick warm-up.

Aka something related to mental and disease. Up the face to the left of the cave perched boulder, on the side facing Mombasa Road. Sit-start on the lowest reachable holds then work up and slightly right before a heady top-out.

Stand-start. Start at the same spot as for Slab Slob, but go right up a less obvious section of the slab, via a high right foot and bellyflop.

On the far left of the boulder. Short problem from a stand-start on a rail where the rock above has broken off. Straight up through a tricky mantle.

On the right of the boulder. Stand-start on decent crimps, move hands and feet up through a slightly sequency section to reach better holds above for the heady topout.

On the left side of the boulder. Start on a good rail, then a big move to a decent hold just under the lip. From there find holds further in and mantle.

To the right of Heavy is the Head. Sit-down start with hands on low on quasi symmetrical crimpy edges, a few big moves straight up to the top. Deceptively difficult and low percentage.

Up the middle of the boulder to a good undercling. Get your feet up from here and reach for a slightly heady topout.

Stand-start on the left side of the boulder, just right of a tree. Start with both hands on the arete and feet below, and work your way up to the highest point of the boulder and top out there (just before joining Searching for UFOs). Useful to have a friend to hold tree branches out of the way.

A mantling testpiece. Stand-start around the middle of the boulder with hands on the sloping edge, and feet on an obvious rail. Go up via a couple of small holds, hip flexibility and thrutching to better holds above and easy top-out.

Highball. Start on the same holds as Commander of the Armies of the North, but go straight up from there on crimps. Once almost at the top go right on OK holds for an easier top-out.

A welcome route in the shade in the afternoon. At the back of the boulder start standing with feet low under the overhanging left side and hands on two good holds in the orange streak. Straight up.

Ascend the boulder using the flake on its left-hand side. STand-start.

Stand-start with right hand on the obvious block in the centre of the boulder (where your left hand is for Right hand squeeze), and left as low as possible on the arete to the left. Go up and left to a good sidepull jug and top out above. Harder if under 1.70 m.

Interesting problem with potential for varying jams and holds. Low sit start to establish, avoiding the boulder to left for whole problem, otherwise quality and difficulty is massively compromised.

The sit-start to Rainbow Road. Start with both hands on the low jug, follow the crack up and right.

Easy moves up the left of the boulder.

Line going up the furthest right part of this big boulder. Stand-start with left hand on a decent square knob, right hand on a diagonal side-pull and foot on a big sloping ledge. Tension up using an intermediate to the crack, get your feet up and easier to top.

Start left hand in pocket and right hand on good side pull, moves right and up on slopers, crimps, and small feet. One of my all-time favorites at Lukenya! On the backside of the boulder - needs at least two pads and a decent spotter to avoid the nearby boulder in a fall.

To the right of Spring, not using the hollow, creaking flake to your right. Up and over the boulder at its highest point on delicate hands and feet.

SIt-start to the left of Satelitte Dish, with left hand on good crimp on low rail and right hand on a low gaston crimp. Hard first move to stand up and reach a diagonal crimp up and right. Easier to the top. Useful to have a friend hold branches out of the way.

The easy slab line on the section of the boulder furthest uphill. Stand-start on a rail and go straight up.

Crouch-start on good holds low and left, work your way up and right to a high top-out, avoiding the loose block in the middle.

Start matched on the right hand hold used for Zambarau, but go right of the arete via a big first move.

Sit-down start on the arete, left hand on good side pull and right hand on lowest crimp, starts up the arete and then takes a big swing to the face of the overhang with a very tricky mantle to the top. A true Lukenya test-piece.

Fun boulder at the grade. Stand-start holding both sides, and work your way up with good compression holds and trickier feet. At the top can use a good footbold on the right of the arete.

Sit start, both hands in the crack. Up the crack and left onto the half-way ledge. Straight up from there.

Start matched on the same holds as for How old are you now?, but go up and right to a decent crimp, and straight up from there.

Stand-start with hands on the mantleshelf; mantle up leftwards by any means necessary.

Start awkwardly below a scoop and work your way into it with fantastic undercling moves. Hard hand traverse along a sharp leftward sloping ridge with poor feet, before a heady direct top out.

Up the slab on the left side of the boulder, starting low and right then making your way up and to left, topping out near the tree branches. Slabby and technical climbing.

Problem on the left of the boulder. Sit-start with the lowest good crimp you can reach and left hand in the slanting crack. Stand up and finish with an easy topout.

Stand-start with both hands just either side of the v-shaped block in the middle of the right side of the boulder. Couple of tricky moves to get up to the lip and then mantle. Short but sweet.

Stand-start under where the overhang starts, work up the slab and exit just right of the overhang.

Start low on the right side of the boulder, up and over the bulge.

More fun than it looks. Start matched low on a great sidepull/undercling and work your way up slopers and a ledge to the topout.

Highball. Crouch start below and right of the horizontal crack on a pinch and an edge, moves left following the crack and then goes straight up.

Nice. Don't use the boulders on right and on left. #bad_dropzone #juggy

Stand-start with left hand just around the arete and right hand on the arete. Pull a couple spicy moves and then your top out of choice.

Sit start, hands on the lowest holds. Only the arete is in.

Deceptively tricky. Stand/squat-start on two low crimps along the same crackline around the bulge. Hard first move, then easier to top, straight up.

Stand start with hands on the mantleshelf slightly right of Mantleorian. Mantle up rightwards by any means necessary. First ascentionist used his shin, not recommended.

Straight up the slabbier right side of boulder

Sit-start on the low jug on the left-hand side of the boulder (right of the slabby face). Go straight up the arete.

To the right of the hollow flake, stand-start with hand on decent holds. Get your feet high and reach up to a good hold. Easy topout.

A bit of an eliminate but very nice moves. Sit-start on a low rail at the base of the arete on the left of the boulder. Hard first move up to a right crimp, before crossing going up and left and then crossing to a good hold above that. Easier to finish. Stay on the arete and avoid the holds to the right of the diagonal crack, on Stripe.

Same start as for Tempered Steel, but finish up and left through the initial overhand, aiming for big chickenheads. Pretty high.

Stand-start on the good holds in the middle "corner" of the boulder. Find th only decent hold up and right from there, get your right foot high and mantle hard to the top.

Start on same big undercling/sidepull as for Aplats magnifiques but go out right and work your way up to a slightly harder topout.

Go up the easy broken rock to the right of Kenyan Cowgirl.

Sit-start in the concave section of the boulder, with right hand on a good incut side-pull and left hand on the left arete. Work your up out and up the boulder, avoiding the rock to the right of the crack once out of the cave.

An alternative finish to Heavy is the head. Start on the same holds as for Heavy is the head, but when you arrive at the decent crimp about midway in match and head out left rather than right.

Stand-start with hands matched on the big obvious flake. Move right and up the arete to mantle.

Same start position as Tiny scissors, difficult traverse requiring finger strength and tension to finish up Little Knife, using the slightly hollow but good flake as an undercling. A couple of excruciatingly sharp holds but fun movements!

Start low in the cave on a crimp rail and up to bigger jug (left of razorback start holds). Up and left the steep face on small crimps, avoiding any of the larger razorback holds to the right. Join razorback for the topout only. Would be 3* if not a bit of an eliminate!

Deceptively difficult and techy problem. Sit-start with left hand in lowest horizontal crack and right in a good low undercling. Make your way to a standing position via okay crimps, then up and right via weight shifts and tenuous body positions to top out on the right edge of the boulder on good holds.

With your left hand on the same right-hand start hold as Little Knife, and right hand on a good crimp further right. Again get your feet high and pull and palm to get etsablished on both feet and finish with an easy topout.

Sit-start on the lowest good usable holds, and go up on more decent holds above.

On the side of the boulder facing the road.

Sit start with one hand on crimp and another on low sidepull. Make strong moves right and up to sloping rail and spicy mantle to top out.

Stand-start on the best two holds at the far left of the boulder. One big foot move, one big hand move, and you're in a second crack above and topping out.

Starting at the big obvious crimp on the right of the boulder, traverse left on the sloping ledge, avoiding the exit jugs above, all the way to the sidepull start to Kijiko on the left. Feel free to exit earlier for an easier problem.

On the face round the side from Ripple - unclimbed VHard project. Start on obvious holds to the right of the far left arete and climb small crimps to a big move and an easy topout.

Sit-start below and left of the big rail. Make you way straight up on good crimps, delicately on the flake.

Start matched on the smaller crimp rail to the left of Yugen. Find a hold round the corner on the left, then up to the top edge and find a way to mantle up.

Awkward problem on the left side of the boulder. Stand-start with hands on slopers at shoulder level. Straight up a series of slopers.

Stand-start on a good white hold as far right as the bush allows. Heel hook and work your way across to the big jugs in the middle.

An enticing little slab problem up the middle of the boulder. Stand-start in the gap between the two boulders with hands just above waist height. Go either up and slightly left (easier) or up and slightly right (harder). Great for learning how to slab climb. Can be padded by filling in the gap with pads after the climber is above the height of the neighbouring boulder.

Highball. Up the diagonal crack splitting the boulder. Stand-start at the base of the crack, then move up it, breaking out left onto jugs towards the top.

Stand-start on the arete on the right, with right hand on a big blocky hold and right foot heek hooking next to it. Big move up, get on your feet and easier topout.

Stand-start up the right-hand arete of the boulder.

Sit-start just left of the small boulder in the middle of the overhang, on two decent crimps. Pup up to the lip, then traverse right until you can mantle.

Beauty of a problem up this proud boulder. Start low and left of the overhanging prow. Go right to some decent slopers, back left to a good crimp and keep your calm for the top-out.

Stand-start from the side-pull on the left of the boulder. Straight up on good holds.