Routes in Lukenya for selected grade

Between Jason's route and KL. An excellent, steep, juggy climb. Pumpy, but not as hard as it looks. A lovely route.

Immediately to the left of Leap of Faith. Very crimpy start to the first bolt, easier ground after that.

A delicate exercise in nut placing. This worthy trip takes the left side of the Castle where there is an orange overhang with a steep grey wall above. A 18m doddle up the lower slabs ends at a good belay in horizontal cracks some 5m below the overhang. Up this direct via a slanting flake and the grey wall above is reached by way of a thin vertical crack up on the right. Move up delicately 5m to good pro. Mantelshelf steep wall above and easier ground to top.

The corner crack between the two faces is climbed free (natural pro).

Crouch start on far right of prow, traverses just a few moves left and then up the face

Sit-down start matched on really nice jug, moves left and up with a big move to a nice edge up at the lip. One of Lukenya's best!

On the red face facing south picnic tree. One bolt at start, then traverse diagonally to the right, move up to holes. Then traverse left on horizontal crack until it thins down, with another bolt above the crack. Finish at bolted anchors.

A brilliant climb which takes the main South face of the Castle. Start right of a flake on the ground an 50' of easy climbing leads to a point where the lower slab meets the steepening wall. A long pitch leads up right to the right-hand side of a flake, then up aot a prominent quartz-hole. Traverse diagonally leftwards to an obvious niche, then move right and up a cruzy wall to a horizontal crack (fixed peg pro on right). Move left to wall below bolt and make difficult move up to obvious finishing groove. Easier to top.

Intimidating. For many years it was neglected owing to a reputation for lack of pro. Now it has excellent bolt pro. No harder than 'The Keep' but possibly more variety and atmosphere. The route rises steeply to the vertical wall below the left-hand overhang, traverses rightwards across this then surmounts wall in between overhangs in a marvellous position. The original start began left of the start of 'Committee Wall' and climbed the steep wall leading the the left-hand crack of the Committee Wall flake. This is not too hard but unprotected. Many parties will probably take 'Committee Wall' as far as the belay on top of the flake. From here move up leftwards to a bolt, then up with increasing difficulty to a second bolt. Step down right (crux), then up and continue rightwards to easier ground. Move up to foot of wall between overhangs. Bolt on left. Ascend wall with difficulty and hand-traverse right to ledge. Finish easily.

5m to the right of the start to Cemetery Wall is a thin crack which begins to open at 6m. Start from the tree stump at blank wall. Move up on thin flakes to a old bolt. Layback and jam to the widening of the crack. Strenuous. Continue more easily up the crack. Step right onto face from two moves then back into the crack. Tree belay.

A veritable corker! Start from boulder just right of Savage Waltz. Pull up bulge on good jugs and continue to glassy wall below "ear"(a peg with a split eye is on left). Up this wall (crux) to crack and layback strenuously rightwards to jugs and ledge. Easily to top.

An absolute blaster and intimidating to boot. Start 8m right of Finis corner, where the wall begins to overhang. A bolt can be seen at 6m. Up rightwards to bolt. Cruxy step up left of bolt then right to small niche. Straight up to steep but easier finish.

Sit-down start matched on low slot edge, goes straight up on great slopers edges and incuts.

Highball. Stand start and go straight up the face. A really nice technical boulder problem. Avoid using boulder on the right, though it could possibly be a V0 variation if used.

Stand-start far right and traverse left and up to finish.

Stand-start on the lowest-usable crimps. Hard first move to a decent hold, straight up from there.

Start matched on rail at end of Shark's mouth. Proceed straight up the gills.

Crouch-start on good holds low and left, work your way up and right to a high top-out, avoiding the loose block in the middle.

Problem on the left of the boulder. Sit-start with the lowest good crimp you can reach and left hand in the slanting crack. Stand up and finish with an easy topout.

To the right of the hollow flake, stand-start with hand on decent holds. Get your feet high and reach up to a good hold. Easy topout.

To the left of Cave Crack is a prominent pillar. Start at the bottom and climb up on the corner/pillar. Below the bolt you can place a few runners. Crux around the bolt (which can be a bit tricky to clip). Continue past bolt and easily to top.

Starts in the juggy crack on the left, follows the crack up right to the dihedral and goes straight up. A really nice climb with an airy top out. The small tree in the middle of the line is off!

Problem on the left of the boulder. Sit-start on the lowest crimp and work your way up using a little flake and footwork.

Start low on the right side of the boulder, up and over the bulge.

Sit-start at the furthest right and lower point of the big diagonal cracks. Work your way up this leftwards to get establish on good holds when the cracks end. From here either dyno to the top or use a poor intermediate crimp and bump up. Top out from there.

Same sit-start as for Touching cotton, the lowest holds on the right of big diagonal cracks. From here move up right on holds in cracks and mantle over the top.

#crimpy #juggy

Sit-start on the arete to the left of the crack, with right hand on the arete and left low on the face. Compress up the arete to good holds at the top, maybe with a sneaky toe-hook?

As the name suggests, up the crack on the left of the big face. Stand-start and jam or layback up to the big horizontal crack below the block above. Traverse right along this to finish.

To the right of Cheerio, where there is an orange band of smooth rock on the lower half of the face. Stand-start on small feet and the lowest decent handholds. Straight up from there.

To the right of Special K. Stand-start on the lowest good holds. Find your feet and go straight up.

Sit-start matched in the low crack on the left of the boulder, traverse all the way across following the gently rising crack, finishing on the far right where a small vertical crack splits the top.

Start on the obvious jug rail at the center bottom of the boulder and go straight up, and most importantly... have fun!

Sit-start below and left of the big rail. Make you way straight up on good crimps, delicately on the flake.

The blocky finish to rock slide, straight up from a stand-start. Cheeky handjam at the top for those into that kind of thing.

Goes up slightly to the left of the middle of the boulder on decent if small holds. Use your feet and stay calm, the topout is good.

Goes up just left of the arete on the right of the boulder (a hard line is awaiting an FA just right of this arete). Slightly harder moves to start, with a delicate but solid topout at long as you keep calm.

Start 2.5m right of The Hair Of The Frog where there is an obvious jam crack up through the overhang. Climb crack to tree stump of The Lizard. Move directly above past horizontal crack and crux move up overhang (bolt). Exit left onto wall 1.5m above bolt, step up, then traverse right 2m and easier ground above to abseil cable.

On the right of the boulder. Stand-start on decent crimps, move hands and feet up through a slightly sequency section to reach better holds above for the heady topout.

Sit-down start with left hand low on arete and right hand on a very low undercling, moves a few moves up the arete and then traverses right across and up a the slab. Avoid going all the way up arete or around on the left side.

Stand-start on the best two holds at the far left of the boulder. One big foot move, one big hand move, and you're in a second crack above and topping out.

Sit-down start (almost lying) on low jug and goes straight up the right side of the boulder.

Straight up the slab on pebbles to the top. Avoid arete on right and large feature on left (slab only pure and simple)

Go up the arete opposite Witness the Weakness. Start on jugs on the left for easier, lower on crimps on the right for harder.

Up the slab on the left side of the boulder, starting low and right then making your way up and to left, topping out near the tree branches. Slabby and technical climbing.

Sit-start on the low jug on the left-hand side of the boulder (right of the slabby face). Go straight up the arete.

An enticing little slab problem up the middle of the boulder. Stand-start in the gap between the two boulders with hands just above waist height. Go either up and slightly left (easier) or up and slightly right (harder). Great for learning how to slab climb. Can be padded by filling in the gap with pads after the climber is above the height of the neighbouring boulder.

Stand-start on the same holds as for "Just grab and smear" and proceed to traverse right into "Leg day gains" and finish up via the latter sequence.

Up the right-hand arete of the boulder.

Stand-start in the middle of the face. Straight up via good horizontal and diagonal cracks.

Up the easiest ground on the left of the perched boulder, left of Gogo. Crouch-start on obvious good holds and up and left.

This problem ascends the arete on left hand side of the boulder. Start stood on the ramp below the arete with hands matched on the slanting rail. Once established, the ascent along the arete is straight forward with good feet and decent hand holds.

Highball up the face on the lower boulder below Go-Go Gadget Arms, etc., on the side facing Mombasa Road, in between two fig trees. Stand-start on the holds you can reach. Work through some deceptively tricky moves to reach better holds above and top out on jugs, making sure each one is solid before pulling.

On the perched bnoulder itself. Get in the cave and dig. Stand-start matched on the good blocky hold on the outside of the cave, facing Mombasa Road. From there chimney up to holds which enable you to come out of the cave and onto jugs on the face.

The best of the easier lines. Stand-start with hands in the diagional crack and follow it rightwards. The sit-start is V2, from the low blocky hold.

With your left hand on the same right-hand start hold as Little Knife, and right hand on a good crimp further right. Again get your feet high and pull and palm to get etsablished on both feet and finish with an easy topout.

Start on a good rail under the overhang on the left. Go up under the overhang and traverse right to exit.

Tough start. #SD #juggy

Up the middle of the boulder to a good undercling. Get your feet up from here and reach for a slightly heady topout.

To the right of Spring, not using the hollow, creaking flake to your right. Up and over the boulder at its highest point on delicate hands and feet.

Stand-start on the left of the boulder with hands in decent holds in a horizontal crack. First move is hardest, to get a good hold higher, then up the broken ground above.

Up the crack on the left-hand side of the boulder. Sit-start matched in the crack as low as possible, up to where it ends and straight up the juggy boulder above.

Stand-start on good holds just left of the cave. Move up on jugs then slightly left to a diagonal rail then to better holds to finish.

All that is great about Lukenia climbing. Start about 6m right of Gone With The Wind where there is a bolt some 4m up cliff. The title says it all. A gently overhanging wall which does not let up for 20m. Never desperate but tricky low down near the bolt. Four lunges follow to an easier but thrilling overhang and bolt belay on the wall above same as for Gone With the Wind. Either lower off here or climb unexciting wall above to top. It has become a classic and deservedly so.

Great little problem. Stand-start on the left of the arete. Work your way up to the big crack then up and left back around the arete to the finishing jugs.

Pumpy traverse on the juggy handholds going above the cave, with a slightly tricky finish.

Same finish as for Sura Yako, but starts crouched on the right and works left.

To the right of Kiboko on decent crimps. Stand-start and get your feet up!

To the right of Anakuja! Again, stand-start with hands on decent crimps, get your feet up and finish.

Not a classic but can be a good warm-up. Stand-start on a horizontal crack on the left of the boulder, then right and up on good holds.

Sit-down start on low jug and goes up left of arete on good crimps.

Start, low, up to the triangular hold on the face, then up to the right to a good diagonal crimp. Can be done the fun way with a big dyno, or the lame static way with wide feet. Up good holds to the left to finish.

Start right of Cemetery corner until corner/chimney. Layback up leftwards to groove, up this a bit then break out onto right wall by way of steeper groove. Move up to slab and finish on left.

Stand-start on crimps in the middle of the boulder, with left and right in two slightly offset holds about halfway up the boulder. Straight up.

Stand-start on decent hold in the horizontal crack. Move up using the arete and hold on the face to the jugs above. With 2 or 3 pads the landing is better than it looks - fun easy climb.

SIt-start around the right side of the prow, with hands matched in the low slanting rail and feet underneath. Work your way up the right side of the arete - a few options available for holds.

Start matched on the right hand hold used for Zambarau, but go right of the arete via a big first move.

Ascend the boulder using the flake on its left-hand side. STand-start.

The line furthest left, or deepest inside the whale's mouth. Short but with a tricky first move. Stand-start on the lowest usable holds and a high foot, straight up through the horizontal break and slanting crack above.

To the right of Moja Maker, up the face. Stand-stat with hands matched in a good diagonal crack but with poor feet. Find your way up the face on more decent holds and more poor feet before reaching jugs for both.

Fun boulder at the grade. Stand-start holding both sides, and work your way up with good compression holds and trickier feet. At the top can use a good footbold on the right of the arete.

Stand-start on the obvious lowest usable holds. Go straight up, using face or arete holds as you like.

Right of Slippery Feet. Stand-start using a diagonal crack and move up using holds on the face and arete.

Sit-start to the right of "Sit-start warm-up", with hands matched on the obvious lowest good holds. First move is the hardest, without fantastic feet, moving up to okay holds. Stay on the white streak to the right of the crack. Moves stay interesting at the top, still have to think about your feet and find the right holds - a nice V1.

Not the most inspiring name but a fun boulder. Good to have a spotter as the landing is a bit slanted. On the first part of the perched boulder you approach from the left-side scramble up to the top. Sit-start matched on a blocky hold, then sort out feet to reach a cool tufa-like hold out left. Straight up from there.

Just left of Sit-Start Pull Cross. Sit-start matched on a small rounded crimp (right and up from a more crumbly hold), with feet low. Slightly powerful first move up and right to a good sloping hold, then straight up through interesting moves.

Sit-start at the left end of the boulder, near the scramble up and down. Start with left and right hands in two great underclings under the bulge, with not great feet. First move is hardest, to a decent hold above the bulge, then up on better holds from there.

Quite tall but on good holds the whole way. On the rock to the right of the big crack and much taller face, on the side of the lower boulder facing the hillside. Stand-start on crimps, with feet up off the lower boulder on not great feet. First move is hardest, then easier to the top.

Sit-start on a low right-hand crimp and left hand sidepull. Stand up to a marginal crimp before good holds on the arete and crack and moving up to a fun top-out.

Up the boulder using the feature that looks like a satellite dish.

Sit-start on the low rail. Move up through a couple of tensiony moves on crimps to better holds above. Finish on jugs.

Sit-start on the lowest good usable holds, and go up on more decent holds above.

Face left for salty, and right for sweet. Stand-start for both with hands on the lower boulder.

Lovely tall climb. Stand-start with hands matched in lowest obvious hold. Go straight up, using the right side of the arete if needed but staying left of the crack and boulder on the right.

Sit-start with hands matched in a good horizontal crack. Slightly strenuous first move up to a good hold, then good feet and handholds from there.

Stand-start with both hands on the lip of the boulder on the far right. Traverse left along the lip on decent holds and heel hooks and top out at the highest point of the boulder, where there is a prominent chicken head. Landing gets worse as you go, so pad and spot carefully.

Sit start (practically a lie start) from the low jug in the middle of the boulder. Traverse out right through the 45 degree crack and continue to top out at the far right corner.

Eliminate problem starting with a sit start on the "handle" jugs on each side of the flat shelf to the right of the other starts. Power up to the top lip, avoiding the cracks in the middle. Cracks off for feet too, so enjoy the mantle!

Sit start from the big jug in the middle and find your way directly up a couple hand moves to an easy top.

Stand-start with right hand on the obvious block in the centre of the boulder (where your left hand is for Right hand squeeze), and left as low as possible on the arete to the left. Go up and left to a good sidepull jug and top out above. Harder if under 1.70 m.

Sit-start in the same low jugs as for Axe. Go left and up on juggy holds to top out at the hight point of the boulder. Take care with some holds, as they sound slightly hollow.