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Routes in Lukenya for selected grade

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Showing all 4 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
HS UKT:4a
Fig Tree
HS UKT:4a Le Pelley's Variation

Start at left end of overhang.

  1. 15m. Tier of steep rocks leads to traverse under overhang to left up to point of large semi-detached boulder. Ascend wall to fig tree and move right 4m to base of crack and belay.

  2. 10m. Ascend crack and face to foot of chimney with small tree.

  3. 5m. Climb up chimney on right in final block to belay at fig tree.

FA: R. Le Pelley, 1949

Trad 30m
Eagle's Nest
HS UKT:4a Plunge

Start on tree to right of Hangover. Ascend wall and up to obvious cracked overhang. Climb this directly and exit on left. Up easily to belay on top of slab.

FA: M. Harris & R.D. Metcalfe, 1967

Trad 16m
S UKT:4a
The Cemetery
S UKT:4a Cemetery Corner

Start at base of crack at right-hand corner of slab where there is a prominent fault. Move left-handed under edge of overlapping slab. At left-hand point of overlap climb onto wall and move back right-handed to smooth wall and chimney. Back up over chockstone boulders to platform (root belay). Delicate move onto left-hand wall and traverse until wall can be climbed directly or a swing up can be made on small block. Move left- handed to finish.

Trad 23m
Main Face
S UKT:4a Arthur's Horror

Immediately right of buttress is a large black slab. Start in the middle of this and climb slab direct to steep wall. Up this to good ledge. This ledge is great for attempting the previous climbs instead of the cave belay. The second pitch works its way up the main ridge of the buttress on easy rock to a large belay block beneath the final wall. Climb up flake and step right to small ledge below overhang. A long traverse continues rightwards (crux) keeping under the overhang until a steep wall covered in jugs allows access to the top of cliff.

FA: Arthur Firmin & Evelyn Baring, 1936

Trad 60m

Showing all 4 routes.

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