Routes in Lukenya

On the mountain-facing side of the perched boulder. Sit-start, matched on a big jug on the left of the cave. From there traverse low along the boulder until you reach the cave, and go up before getting into it.

Sit start with both hands matched on a low rail then pull your way rightwards and then up on a series of small crimps and sidepulls. Old school!

A semi-powerful problem up the orange section on the right hand side of the boulder. Start matched on lowest, small crack rail

The lowball boulder just to the right of the Tiger Shark. Sit start with a good right heel to get established, the rest is just a matter of getting up

This problem ascends the arete on left hand side of the boulder. Start stood on the ramp below the arete with hands matched on the slanting rail. Once established, the ascent along the arete is straight forward with good feet and decent hand holds.

Start on the left of the same juggy rail as 'Gobi Head' and go straight up by way of sharp crimps. The only feature this route shares with Gobi Head is the rail at the bottom. Stay away from the holds far right as this is a different problem.

Line up the arete. Start matched on the lowest good holds, move up to the next set of good holds and jump for the top!

Crouch-start on the right of the boulder, where a small, shallow, horizontal crack on the middle of the boulder peters out. Start with both hands on decent crimps at this point (can be crossed), with bad feet, and work your way left along decent if small crimps. Go up and finish when you reach the first vertical crack (top of Weakness Protection Programme).

Up the middle of the boulder to a good undercling. Get your feet up from here and reach for a slightly heady topout.

To the right of Spring, not using the hollow, creaking flake to your right. Up and over the boulder at its highest point on delicate hands and feet.

The logical conclusion to a lot of messing around on this boulder! As for Big Knife, but keep going with tricky beta along the rest of the boulder, finishing up Corkscrew. Long, fun and knackering!

With your left hand on the same right-hand start hold as Little Knife, and right hand on a good crimp further right. Again get your feet high and pull and palm to get etsablished on both feet and finish with an easy topout.

Start on a good rail under the overhang on the left. Go up under the overhang and traverse right to exit.

Tough start. #SD #juggy

Lower and more powerful start to High as a Kite. Start matched on the same rail as for Jetpack and move up and left.

Sit-start with hands matched in big low crack. Get to the lip straight above and slightly left then hard mantle to finish.

Start below right-hand end of overhang from pile of boulders behind tree.

1. 14m. Climb to point of overhang then slightly left- handed and directly up wall to belay in sentry box.

2. 14m. Move out on right and then move left-handed to wall above, which is taken direct, on to slabs to finish.

Sit-start matched in big low crack, right of Shin tingler. Move up to lip then even harder mantle.

Choice line in the middle of the boulder. Stand-start matched in a big horizontal pocket. Move up to the lip then work your way right to slightly more incut holds and use the left-hand edge of the rock on top to finish. Harder than it looks!

Stand-start matched on the lowest good hold, directly underneath the separate rock on top of the boulder. One or two moves to set up then dyno to the top of the boulder under the rock. Use rock on top to top out.

Great little V5 up the overhanging nose of the boulder. Start matched on the good holds about chest height and use power or heel-hook trickery straight up.

Up the crack on the left-hand side of the boulder. Sit-start matched in the crack as low as possible, up to where it ends and straight up the juggy boulder above.

Stand-start on good holds just left of the cave. Move up on jugs then slightly left to a diagonal rail then to better holds to finish.

Stand-start on the left of the boulder with hands in decent holds in a horizontal crack. First move is hardest, to get a good hold higher, then up the broken ground above.

In the middle of the face is a grassy platform at 4.5m. Start in corner to left below this and climb to platform, then to detached pinnacle on left. Step across gully and move left onto wall. Climb left-handed to end of curving overhang. Pull up to finish on ledge.

Start on top of pile of boulders to right of tree. Climb wall directly into groove, ascend this and final wall.

Start at the base of groove behind bush between Coffin and point of slab. Ascend groove, move out right to grassy ledge, move to left edge of sand-coloured slab. Ascending traverse right across slab, move right-hand over point of corner to easier rock and top. An alternative finish (Severe) may be followed from the grassy ledge by ascending to vertical crack and moving right in an ascending traverse. Cross onto Tombstone and to the bulge directly below the fig tree. Finish above.

All that is great about Lukenia climbing. Start about 6m right of Gone With The Wind where there is a bolt some 4m up cliff. The title says it all. A gently overhanging wall which does not let up for 20m. Never desperate but tricky low down near the bolt. Four lunges follow to an easier but thrilling overhang and bolt belay on the wall above same as for Gone With the Wind. Either lower off here or climb unexciting wall above to top. It has become a classic and deservedly so.

The obvious crack below and leading to the large block at the end of the traverse on Eagle’s Nest Crack. Aid from one peg on the traverse into the crack low down.

Start as for Allegro. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. At right- hand end ascend wall direct to finish.

Pumpy traverse on the juggy handholds going above the cave, with a slightly tricky finish.

Line up the overhang left and under The Storm. Stand-start on the lowest juggy rail, figure out a way to get established on the obvious cracks above, and exit right onto the finishing jug of The Storm. Named in honour of the stubborn lizard living in the start holds.

Sit-start with right hand on same start as act of blasphemy and left hand further left, in a wide t the large rail. Straight up trending left from there.

Great little problem. Stand-start on the left of the arete. Work your way up to the big crack then up and left back around the arete to the finishing jugs.

Up the arete on the right.

Start, low, up to the triangular hold on the face, then up to the right to a good diagonal crimp. Can be done the fun way with a big dyno, or the lame static way with wide feet. Up good holds to the left to finish.

Sit-down start on low jug and goes up left of arete on good crimps.

To the right of Kiboko on decent crimps. Stand-start and get your feet up!

Easy moves up the left of the boulder.

Same finish as for Sura Yako, but starts crouched on the right and works left.

Start as for Orchid Ledge, directly below small fig tree under overhang.

1. 15m. Ascending traverse left-handed to black water groove. Take wall on good holds. Ascending traverse right-handed to fig tree in groove for belay.

2. 9m. Move right across face to sentry box with belay.

3. 14m. Out of sentry box right-handed almost to point of fault where rock steepens. Swing back left- handed following line of fault and up to finish.

To the right of Anakuja! Again, stand-start with hands on decent crimps, get your feet up and finish.

Last problem to the right, on poorer holds. Hard first move to get feet up, then easier.

This is the obvious easiest line on the boulder. It's juggy all the way up and easily doable for most climbers in flip flops.

To the right of Tree Route is a large white rock under the steeper face. Start between the rock and the next tree on the face.

1. 30m. Straight up the face, turning on the left the grass ledge at 20m. Up crack and slightly right to good belay under second grass ledge.

2. 10m. Traverse left over thin holds and then up to obvious knob belay.

3. 18m. Up leaving flake on left and onto grassy ledge. Tree belay.

4. 12m. About 4.5m left from tree climb to slight overhang. Take this on left and straight up past small tree to finish.

Start as for Thin Wall Original.

1. 12m. Climb crack. Move right onto wall and to platform and block belay.

2. 10m.. Climb slightly right-handed to left point of the Baboon Traverse overhang. From here to tree on left at foot of sentry-box.

3. 10m. Climb sentry-box direct to finish over slab at top. Belay to boulder some way back.

Stand-start with feet low under the overhang and hands on lowest crimps you can hold. Get feet higher, tense everything and pull over the overhang and up to finish.

Great boulder problem. Start low with a left-hand gaston and right hand on a big pinch. Come round the arete onto the face with strenuous moves, to good crimps and a reachy topout.

Start at foot of slab below hole with thin crack above. From hole move slightly right to ledge at foot of steep wall. Traverse left to easier rock and then back right-handed to large platform with thread runner under overhang. Step out right round corner boulder onto face passing just to left of fig tree to finish.

Start at fig tree some 3m from face. Climb directly to middle of steep sand-coloured wall. Surmount wall to detached boulder. Up and left to summit boulder to finish.

Not a classic but can be a good warm-up. Stand-start on a horizontal crack on the left of the boulder, then right and up on good holds.

Up the middle of the boulder. Stand-start with a high right foot, right hand on small crimpy sidepull and left hand on small cramp. Get horizontal, bump up twice with left hand (hard moves) then an easy finish.

Start on left most holds in the whale’s mouth and finish on the top out of oversized shorts.

Start right of Cemetery corner until corner/chimney. Layback up leftwards to groove, up this a bit then break out onto right wall by way of steeper groove. Move up to slab and finish on left.

Start in a small gully where Bee Buttress becomes Jacob’s Ladder Face. Up gully 3m and step right onto slab for a few steps then across left onto small ledge below nose. Take nose direct and mantleshelf into a small broken groove on the bridge of the nose. Move left to finish.

Start from top of detached flake at right-hand end of Fig Tree overhang. Climb tier of rocks, step onto wall and up to tree. Continue to ascend left to second tree. Step onto left-hand wall and up to belay at fig tree.

Stand-start on crimps in the middle of the boulder, with left and right in two slightly offset holds about halfway up the boulder. Straight up.

The steep corner some 6m right of Matatu. Five fierce moves up thin crackline past bolt on right, leads to blank wall. Cruxy move right then easier step left below small roof. Over roof on good holds and to top.

Easy warm-up or beginner lowball. Traverse left to right with hands on jugs on the arete.

Start between wide watersplash with tree at foot and croton tree on right, directly behind boulder. Follow groove to skyline and top.

Alternate start to Archway Direct. Start on corner of buttress to right of normal start (point of slab directly below tree on overhang, a pigeonhole 1m above ground). Leads to platform. Finish as for Archway Direct: ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish.

Sit-start matched on the lowest good hold at the bottom of the arrête and power up using both sides of the arete.

Stand-start just behind the small tree, which can be padded so you don't fall into it. Left hand starts on a small left-hand crimp (couple of fingers) and a right-hand pinchy crimp. Straight up from there, with a fun big move to the finishing jug. One for Moonboard aficionados.

Stand-start on decent hold in the horizontal crack. Move up using the arete and hold on the face to the jugs above. With 2 or 3 pads the landing is better than it looks - fun easy climb.

Sit-start with right hand on the undercling next to the corner and left hand out compressing on the arete at about the same height (same start as Marco). Instead of going left as for Marco, go right through some fun moves onto the prow, finishing up this.

Sit-start in the concave section of the boulder, with right hand on a good incut side-pull and left hand on the left arete. Work your up out and up the boulder, avoiding the rock to the right of the crack once out of the cave.

Great compression boulder. Sit-start with left hand on a good hold on the lefthand side of the arete, and right in a pocket, feet low underneath. Hug your way up the prow to juggy holds higher up.

SIt-start around the right side of the prow, with hands matched in the low slanting rail and feet underneath. Work your way up the right side of the arete - a few options available for holds.

Ascend the boulder using the flake on its left-hand side. STand-start.

The line furthest left, or deepest inside the whale's mouth. Short but with a tricky first move. Stand-start on the lowest usable holds and a high foot, straight up through the horizontal break and slanting crack above.

Start matched on the right hand hold used for Zambarau, but go right of the arete via a big first move.

The climb traverses in under the large overhang and then up the corner to the left of Bandstand. Sometimes has hornets.

1. 30m. Up slabs to left-hand end of roof. Big block to belay from.

2. 15m. Traverse under roof until ledge narrows awkward step right to ledge; with aid from peg gain second stance of Bandstand.

3. 15m. Step left across corner and up wall on good holds above overhang.

Or HS A1 without going free

Up the face on the left side of the boulder next to Treehugger.

To the right of Moja Maker, up the face. Stand-stat with hands matched in a good diagonal crack but with poor feet. Find your way up the face on more decent holds and more poor feet before reaching jugs for both.

To the right of Crème Brûlée. Sit-start on lowest holds. First move is hardest, straight up to the finishing jugs. Short but sweet.

Fun boulder at the grade. Stand-start holding both sides, and work your way up with good compression holds and trickier feet. At the top can use a good footbold on the right of the arete.

Sit-start to the right of "Sit-start warm-up", with hands matched on the obvious lowest good holds. First move is the hardest, without fantastic feet, moving up to okay holds. Stay on the white streak to the right of the crack. Moves stay interesting at the top, still have to think about your feet and find the right holds - a nice V1.

Just left of Sit-Start Pull Cross. Sit-start matched on a small rounded crimp (right and up from a more crumbly hold), with feet low. Slightly powerful first move up and right to a good sloping hold, then straight up through interesting moves.

Quite tall but on good holds the whole way. On the rock to the right of the big crack and much taller face, on the side of the lower boulder facing the hillside. Stand-start on crimps, with feet up off the lower boulder on not great feet. First move is hardest, then easier to the top.

Not the most inspiring name but a fun boulder. Good to have a spotter as the landing is a bit slanted. On the first part of the perched boulder you approach from the left-side scramble up to the top. Sit-start matched on a blocky hold, then sort out feet to reach a cool tufa-like hold out left. Straight up from there.

On the right side of the mountain-facing side of the lower boulder, just left of the very tall face and Slipper Feet and Osoit. Stand-start on obvious big holds and go up on more good holds from there. A bit high but always on solid holds.

Stand-start on the obvious lowest usable holds. Go straight up, using face or arete holds as you like.

SIt-start on the lowest rail on the slabby black rock to the right of Sit-start warm-up and Mojave. First move hardest, but still easy enough, then up jugs to the top.

Sit-start at the left end of the boulder, near the scramble up and down. Start with left and right hands in two great underclings under the bulge, with not great feet. First move is hardest, to a decent hold above the bulge, then up on better holds from there.

Right of Slippery Feet. Stand-start using a diagonal crack and move up using holds on the face and arete.

Sit-start on the lowest good usable holds, and go up on more decent holds above.

Stand-start with both hands on the lip of the boulder on the far right. Traverse left along the lip on decent holds and heel hooks and top out at the highest point of the boulder, where there is a prominent chicken head. Landing gets worse as you go, so pad and spot carefully.

Face left for salty, and right for sweet. Stand-start for both with hands on the lower boulder.

Stand-start to the right of the crack in the middle of the boulder. Move up staying right of the crack.

Lovely tall climb. Stand-start with hands matched in lowest obvious hold. Go straight up, using the right side of the arete if needed but staying left of the crack and boulder on the right.

Sit-start with hands matched in a good horizontal crack. Slightly strenuous first move up to a good hold, then good feet and handholds from there.

Sit-start with hands on the low block and adjacent small chickenhead. From here either jump to the jug above or deadpoint to diagonal right crimp, then mantle and finish.

Up the boulder using the feature that looks like a satellite dish.

Sit-start on the low rail. Move up through a couple of tensiony moves on crimps to better holds above. Finish on jugs.

Stand-start with both hands just either side of the v-shaped block in the middle of the right side of the boulder. Couple of tricky moves to get up to the lip and then mantle. Short but sweet.

Sit-start on a low right-hand crimp and left hand sidepull. Stand up to a marginal crimp before good holds on the arete and crack and moving up to a fun top-out.

A bit of an eliminate but very nice moves. Sit-start on a low rail at the base of the arete on the left of the boulder. Hard first move up to a right crimp, before crossing going up and left and then crossing to a good hold above that. Easier to finish. Stay on the arete and avoid the holds to the right of the diagonal crack, on Stripe.

Same start hold as Farasi and goes left on a powerful traverse and topout.

Sit start from the big jug in the middle and find your way directly up a couple hand moves to an easy top.

Sit start (practically a lie start) from the low jug in the middle of the boulder. Traverse out right through the 45 degree crack and continue to top out at the far right corner.

Eliminate problem starting with a sit start on the "handle" jugs on each side of the flat shelf to the right of the other starts. Power up to the top lip, avoiding the cracks in the middle. Cracks off for feet too, so enjoy the mantle!