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The Valley

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Description

Moderate to hard climbing on sharp holds.

Access issues inherited from Mulundi

Landowners are the community who have granted permission and allowed for outsiders to come and climb.

Approach

5 minutes away from Sanjike. Crag goes down into the valley overlooking the Kayiya villages at the foot of Chilobwe Mountain

Ethic inherited from Mulundi

Sport routes. Route developer gets to decide on route naming and has final say: they can either name it themselves or leave the honour to the first ascensionist. Bolting ground-up and on abseil are both acceptable.

Climb Malawi coordinates route development and all interests must go through it.

Strict LNT

Routes

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Grade Route

Developed by Mario Stanley, Aug 2023

Climb on the slab up to the anchor. Very wet in the rainy season and dries off slowly. Good for absolute beginners and kids.

TR anchors with links and abseil rings

Developed by Mario Stanley, Aug 2023

3 bolts to anchor. A big hold starts the climb, climbing right past bolt 1. Crux is at bolt 2 that requires a delicate slide back to the left to get into a clipping stance. Abundant holds to anchor.

FA: Viktor Pot, 16 Oct 2023

Developers: Ed Nhlane, February 2021

4 bolts to anchor. A slightly overhanging boulder problem and highly technical route characterized by two finger pockets, sharp edges, and pinches. Route is a series of boulder problems; it starts on the left slab section, up to a duo undercling-pinch for the left and a right on the arrowhead, then a to full crimp on the left above and a sharp right edge below it. Proceed to the pockets at diagonal on right just below bolt 1, traverse to match at the skewed sidepull. Place the right foot high enough before lunging to pinch the arrowhead which is followed by two glorious jugs next to each other. From the jugs, reposition body and swing right hip in to go for the next sidepull and match to lieback at this crux. Explosive power is needed at this crux to power glide to the slopping pinch below the bolts on the left and endurance required to reposition the body again to finish with the big edge on top right. This sequence at the end has got to be rapid because it is taxing.

FA: Ed Nhlane, Mar 2021

Developers: Mario Stanley, Scott Clark, Omar Jagot and Moses Kalirani, August 2023

4 bolts to anchor. A beautiful climb! Decent holds all the way to bolt 3. Climb up to the under-cling above and reach over the bulge with right hand to a jug. This is the crux. The holds disappear on the slab but the feet are really good and lead to a pinch on the left to moved past bolt 4 to the anchor.

FA: Ed Nhlane, 20 Aug 2023

Developer: Petter Sundqvist, February 2021

5 bolts to anchor. An enjoyable climb with simple connecting moves. Slab techniques come into play. It's all about the feet. Start can be tricky and the tree might be used to make it easier. A heel hook can come in handy at the last part of the climb.

Anchor with link and abseil ring

FA: Aka Lichtner, 18 Mar 2021

Developers: Ed Nhlane and Petter Sundqvist, March 2021

5 bolts to anchor. Sequence of the climb starts with the groovy edge for the right leading to the arrowhead on the left plus a push with the left foot. Reposition body and swing right hip inside followed by a knee drop with foot pressed against the side, then lunge for the undercling to the right above and match before reaching for the sidepull on the right.

Anchor with link and ring

FA: Petter Sundqvist & Joost Sikkema, 21 Apr 2022

Developed by Shalom Maholo, Oct 2023

4 bolts to anchor. Climb starts of a tricky bulge (with the tree stump growing in front of it). A critical left foot hold to push up to a right sidepull and bump up to an edge. Then follow a series of crimps and edges to the anchor. Look for a small tree (or stump) behind which the rock has a black patch to start.

Anchor with abseil rings

FA: Ed Nhlane, Oct 2023

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Sat 20 May
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