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Routes in Malta for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 177 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
{UK} E3 UKT:5c/6a
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Champagne Walls
{UK} E3 UKT:5c/6a Rubber Duck

From the top of the middle boulder, take the bulge on the left and climb the wall to the left of the caves.

Trad 25m
{UK} E4 UKT:5c
Malta It-Tirxija Pillar Box Cave
{UK} E4 UKT:5c Lord of the Thais
Trad 45m
Malta Wied Bassasa Il-Minkba
{UK} E4 UKT:5c Very Ordinary Route
Trad 30m
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini The Nose
{UK} E4 UKT:5c Charles Aznavour
Mixed trad 30m, 4
{UK} E3 UKT:5c
Malta Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave
{UK} E3 UKT:5c Fat Cats
Trad 12m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faħam West Ċikka
{UK} E3 UKT:5c Custer's Last Stand

A line out of the back of the righthand niche of the cave. Climb the black righthand crevasse to the roof, traverse right under the roof, pull out on widely spaced jugs past a hole.

Trad 10m
Malta Ghar Lapsi Learning to Fly Cave
{UK} E3 UKT:5c Flypie
Trad 15m
Malta Wied Babu The Flying Arête
{UK} E3 UKT:5c Intimmydation

Start in the middle of the vegetated ledge system. Up a poorly protected slab to better geared slabs then small ledges below the steep wall. Gain a diagonal fault (camming Ns). Spaced hidden moves out right then a step back left over an overlap to reach a belay.

FA: John Codling, 1992

Trad 25m
Malta It-Tirxija It-Tirxija Wall
{UK} E3 UKT:5c Momentary Lapse of Reason
1 5a
2 E3 5c
3 4b

A brilliant route taking the red, barrel shaped wall and the prow above direct, high in the grade. Starts as for Wish You Were Here?.

1 - 20m 5a. The slabs and white groove as for WYWH to the 2 piton and nut belay on the ledge.

2 - 35m 5c. Go straight over the bulge above (friend 3 or near useful). Step right with difficulty. Up and left to small nuts, traverse right delicately to near the right edge of the buttress. Continue up for 10m until you can gain the right end of a handrail, thread, leading up and left to a short corner crack under the prow. Good hidden holds and nut protection lead to an 'out of this world' stance on the lip of the prow. Nut belays up and left.

3 20m 4b. To the top of the pillar and diagonally right across easy slabs to thread belays above the ledge.

Trad 75m, 3
{UK} E3 UKT:5c Crossly Notes

Starting 20m right along the shelf from the edge of the buttress, take an indefinite line up to a steep groove and walls above. Up slabs, easily at first, to a short groove. Continue directly up the juggy overhanging wall, thread, then the steep, less endowed wall above to a small ledge. Climb in the same line on sharp rock to finish up a steep chimney right of a long diagonal crack.

Trad 70m
Malta It-Tirxija Pillar Box Cave
{UK} E3 UKT:5c Continental Drifters
Trad 50m
Comino Il-Mistika Cave
{UK} E3 UKT:5c Raiders of the Lost Aardvark
Trad 20m
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Taurus Wall
{UK} E3 UKT:5c Vegemite

Start at the left hand edge of the cave with numerous stalagtites. Trend left, then straight up past pockets and bulges

Trad 25m
{UK} E2/3 UKT:5c
Malta It-Tirxija It-Tirxija Wall
{UK} E2/3 UKT:5c Crinkled Pinks
1 E2/3 5c
2 S 4a

Belay as for The Division Bell, 6m right of the star shaped hole.

50m 5c. Up easy angled rock just right of the slight groove to a white bulge at 10m. Over to follow a rightward ramp under a rightward leaning overhang. Go up left to a fig tree then right to an awkward blunt arete, then a thread at the righthand end of a bulge. Take the difficult crack to the right then the wall left of a bush.

20m 4a. Up easy slabs above

Trad 70m, 2
Malta Wied Żnuber
{UK} E2/3 UKT:5c Double black

The climb is poorly protected. Climb up to a sling about half way up the route and continue slightly to the right to access a good sling protection on the right of the right black streak. Move back to the left for the exit.

FA: William Hicklin

Trad 16m
{UK} E2 UKT:5c
Malta Victoria Lines Monolith Buttress
{UK} E2 UKT:5c Jugfest
Trad 8m
Malta Victoria Lines Crucifix Cave
{UK} E2 UKT:5c Whirlwind
Trad 21m
{UK} E2 UKT:5c Encore
Trad 21m
{UK} E2 UKT:5c Less Funky than Monkey
Trad 23m
Malta Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave
{UK} E2 UKT:5c Monkey Business 2
Trad 9m
{UK} E2 UKT:5c Beefcake
Trad 14m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faħam West Ċikka
{UK} E2 UKT:5c Wham Bam

The center of the wall between two recesses. Trend right past a hole and T then up the arete to finish.

Trad 18m
{UK} E2 UKT:5c Ċikka

Leg jam the crescent then pray as you reach for the distant flat hold above its lip. pull out leftwards.

Trad 10m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Gape Cave
{UK} E2 UKT:5c No Sweat

Start as for The Gape but continue directly over the roof on good jugs.

Trad 15m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Lurcher Cave
{UK} E2 UKT:5c Carambola

Climb the central pillar above two mini caves to the niche, then move left past a hole to finish up the pocketed overlap.

Trad 6m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Twin Caves
{UK} E2 UKT:5c Resurrection Shuffle

Climb the large overhang at the righthand end of the righthand cave where a thread is visible at the lip of the overhang.

Trad 10m
Malta Wied Babu Il-Blata ta' Għanċula
{UK} E2 UKT:5c Bambleweenie-57 Sub-Meson Atomic Brain
Trad 10m
Malta Wied Bassasa Il-Minkba
{UK} E2 UKT:5c Extremities
Trad 30m
{UK} E1 UKT:5c
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Stairway to Heaven
{UK} E1 UKT:5c Walls to Fall
Trad 14m
{UK} E1 UKT:5c Stairway to Heaven
Trad 14m
{UK} E1 UKT:5c Roads to Roam
Trad 14m
Malta Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave
{UK} E1 UKT:5c Inri Varadi
Trad 11m
{UK} E1 UKT:5c Whammer Jammer
Trad 12m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Behind the Wall
{UK} E1 UKT:5c Swift Undercut

The center of the wall

Trad 6m
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini The Nose
{UK} E1 UKT:5c Chiara Bella
Trad 24m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Gape Cave
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c Black Sweat

The overhanging grey corner. Awkward at best

Trad 8m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Lurcher Cave
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c Caqlembuta

Climb the central pillar moving right to a niche. Finish right up the V-gap in the overhangs

Trad 6m
6c
Malta Il-Latnija (Mellieħa Cave)
6c Flutter By
Sport 12m
Malta Radar Point Bellavista
6c Day by Day
Sport 15m
6c Hurricane
Sport 12m
6c Burning the Candelas at both ends
Sport 22m
Malta Radar Point Bellorama
6c Eligo Letxorrea
Sport 17m, 7
Malta Radar Point The Corner
6c The Tramp
Sport 27m
Malta Radar Point West Wall
6c Psyberica
Sport 15m
Malta Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) Exterior - SE facing Wall
6c Predator
Sport 18m
Malta Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) Gully - NW facing Wall
6c All in
Sport 17m
Malta Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) Gully - SE facing Wall
6c Crazy Frank
Sport 19m, 10
6c Daster of Misaster
Sport 20m
Malta Fomm Ir-Rih Spezz Corner
6c Weight of Freedom
Sport 35m
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) Bridge Cave
6c Brandy
Sport 12m
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) The Eye in the Sky
6c Singing Daughters
Sport 15m
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) White Walls
6c Ladybird
Sport
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) Cat's Arches
6c The Vertical Gardener
Sport 25m
6c The Lord of the Underclings

Starts at the anchor of Tufa moss.

Sport 13m
6c Stock Market

Short bouldery route. Enjoyable moves.

Sport 8m
6c Blade Runner

Starts at the anchor of Crimpy delight (to the right), and can also be climbed as extension of Regleta latina and Veggie shag pad

Sport
Malta Victoria Lines Blind Cave
6c Jekk mhux twil ha tidgħi
Sport
6c Bla Permess
Sport
6c Owzown Frednli
Sport
Malta Victoria Lines Crucifix Cave
6c Life of Emanuela Direct

Set: Nicola Gatti, Dec 2022

Sport 19m
6c Life of Emanuela
Sport 20m, 8
6c A Biscuit for Dixie
Sport 20m
Malta Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave
6c Jumped Up
Sport 9m
6c Bloodstone
Sport 9m
6c Cruel Jewel
Sport 9m
6c Jaguar Smile
Sport 12m
6c Black Panther
Sport 12m
Malta Xaqqa
6c My Corona
1 6c 26m
2 6b 30m
3 5a 30m

Starts approx 80m to the left of Klin Selvaġġ, with the 1st stance about 7m above the sea and approximately opposite the end part of the fin. Start can be accessed by abseiling in or climbing Xaqqa Sea Cliff Traverse.

Sport 86m, 3
Malta Ghar Lapsi Magħlaq Cave
6c M&Ms
Sport
6c Over the Hills and Far Away
Sport
Malta Ghar Lapsi Corona Wall
6c Pfizer
Sport 15m, 5
Malta Ghar Lapsi Learning to Fly Cave
6c Er Capolavoro
Sport 15m
6c Learning to Fly
Sport 16m
Malta Ghar Lapsi Twin Caves
6c Le Poseur
Sport 20m
Malta Blue Grotto Promontory Red Wall
6c Greek Odyssey Direct
1 6a 18m
2 6a+ 12m
3 6c 25m

1st 2 pitches same as Greek Odyssey 3rd pitch: Vertical wall

Sport 55m, 3
6c Soldier Blue
Sport 35m
Malta Wied Babu Smoothies Cave
6c Pineapple Pleasure
Sport 18m
6c Blueberry Buzz
Sport 20m
Malta Wied Babu West Side Story
6c Apple Snatcher
Sport 18m
Malta Wied Babu The Flying Arête
6c Fireworks Factory

FA: John Codling, 1990

Sport 20m
6c Katia

FA: Italian Military Alpine School, 1995

Sport 26m
Malta Garden of Eden Fearless Wall
6c Legends Never Die
Sport
Malta Garden of Eden Fearless Cave
6c Find your way

Set: Nicola Gatti, Feb 2024

Sport 18m, 6
Malta Garden of Eden Għar Il-Barbaġann
6c Tufa Baroque
Sport 16m, 8
6c TBC
Sport 14m
Malta It-Tirxija Pillar Box Cave
6c I Spy

Start 3m right. Up to ledge, then left through roof to shared anchor with NSOTL.

Sport 21m
Malta Blieqa
6c Fat Lizard
Sport 16m
Malta Wied il-Ħallelin
6c Plunder
1 5c
2 5c
3 6a+
4 6c
5 5c
Sport 77m, 5
Gozo Black Slabs
6c Grass on the Green
Sport 20m
Gozo Dahlet Qorrot White Tower
6c Wee man in a Boat
Sport 25m
Gozo San Blas Chalice of Malice Chalice of Malice Gully
6c Candy Coated Misery
Sport 18m
6c Firing Squad
Sport 20m
Gozo San Blas Sopu Tower Cliffs
6c Crystal Nacht
Sport 22m
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Waterworks Area Upstream Waterworks
6c Sunshine After the Storm
Sport 16m
6c Skinhead
Sport
6c Sglodion (chips)
Sport
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Waterworks Area Waterworks Main Area
6c Republic of Gozo
Sport
6c The Tower
Sport 25m
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Champagne Walls
6c Unfinished Business
Sport 25m
6c Deliverance's Brother
Sport 25m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 177 routes.

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