Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
{UK} E3 UKT:5c/6a | |||||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Champagne Walls | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c/6a | Rubber Duck
From the top of the middle boulder, take the bulge on the left and climb the wall to the left of the caves. | 25m | |||
{UK} E4 UKT:5c | |||||
Malta It-Tirxija Pillar Box Cave | |||||
{UK} E4 UKT:5c | Lord of the Thais
| 45m | |||
Malta Wied Bassasa Il-Minkba | |||||
{UK} E4 UKT:5c | ★ Very Ordinary Route
| 30m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini The Nose | |||||
{UK} E4 UKT:5c | Charles Aznavour
| 30m, 4 | |||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | |||||
Malta Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | Fat Cats
| 12m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faħam West Ċikka | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | ★★ Custer's Last Stand
A line out of the back of the righthand niche of the cave. Climb the black righthand crevasse to the roof, traverse right under the roof, pull out on widely spaced jugs past a hole. | 10m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Learning to Fly Cave | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | Flypie
| 15m | |||
Malta Wied Babu The Flying Arête | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | ★★ Intimmydation
Start in the middle of the vegetated ledge system. Up a poorly protected slab to better geared slabs then small ledges below the steep wall. Gain a diagonal fault (camming Ns). Spaced hidden moves out right then a step back left over an overlap to reach a belay. FA: John Codling, 1992 | 25m | |||
Malta It-Tirxija It-Tirxija Wall | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | ★★ Momentary Lapse of Reason
1
5a
2
E3 5c
3
4b
A brilliant route taking the red, barrel shaped wall and the prow above direct, high in the grade. Starts as for Wish You Were Here?. 1 - 20m 5a. The slabs and white groove as for WYWH to the 2 piton and nut belay on the ledge. 2 - 35m 5c. Go straight over the bulge above (friend 3 or near useful). Step right with difficulty. Up and left to small nuts, traverse right delicately to near the right edge of the buttress. Continue up for 10m until you can gain the right end of a handrail, thread, leading up and left to a short corner crack under the prow. Good hidden holds and nut protection lead to an 'out of this world' stance on the lip of the prow. Nut belays up and left. 3 20m 4b. To the top of the pillar and diagonally right across easy slabs to thread belays above the ledge. | 75m, 3 | |||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | Crossly Notes
Starting 20m right along the shelf from the edge of the buttress, take an indefinite line up to a steep groove and walls above. Up slabs, easily at first, to a short groove. Continue directly up the juggy overhanging wall, thread, then the steep, less endowed wall above to a small ledge. Climb in the same line on sharp rock to finish up a steep chimney right of a long diagonal crack. | 70m | |||
Malta It-Tirxija Pillar Box Cave | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | Continental Drifters
| 50m | |||
Comino Il-Mistika Cave | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | ★★ Raiders of the Lost Aardvark
| 20m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Taurus Wall | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | Vegemite
Start at the left hand edge of the cave with numerous stalagtites. Trend left, then straight up past pockets and bulges | 25m | |||
{UK} E2/3 UKT:5c | |||||
Malta It-Tirxija It-Tirxija Wall | |||||
{UK} E2/3 UKT:5c | Crinkled Pinks
1
E2/3 5c
2
S 4a
Belay as for The Division Bell, 6m right of the star shaped hole. 50m 5c. Up easy angled rock just right of the slight groove to a white bulge at 10m. Over to follow a rightward ramp under a rightward leaning overhang. Go up left to a fig tree then right to an awkward blunt arete, then a thread at the righthand end of a bulge. Take the difficult crack to the right then the wall left of a bush. 20m 4a. Up easy slabs above | 70m, 2 | |||
Malta Wied Żnuber | |||||
{UK} E2/3 UKT:5c | Double black
The climb is poorly protected. Climb up to a sling about half way up the route and continue slightly to the right to access a good sling protection on the right of the right black streak. Move back to the left for the exit. FA: William Hicklin | 16m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | |||||
Malta Victoria Lines Monolith Buttress | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Jugfest
| 8m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Crucifix Cave | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Whirlwind
| 21m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Encore
| 21m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Less Funky than Monkey
| 23m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Monkey Business 2
| 9m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Beefcake
| 14m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faħam West Ċikka | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Wham Bam
The center of the wall between two recesses. Trend right past a hole and T then up the arete to finish. | 18m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | ★ Ċikka
Leg jam the crescent then pray as you reach for the distant flat hold above its lip. pull out leftwards. | 10m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Gape Cave | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | ★ No Sweat
Start as for The Gape but continue directly over the roof on good jugs. | 15m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Lurcher Cave | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Carambola
Climb the central pillar above two mini caves to the niche, then move left past a hole to finish up the pocketed overlap. | 6m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Twin Caves | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Resurrection Shuffle
Climb the large overhang at the righthand end of the righthand cave where a thread is visible at the lip of the overhang. | 10m | |||
Malta Wied Babu Il-Blata ta' Għanċula | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Bambleweenie-57 Sub-Meson Atomic Brain
| 10m | |||
Malta Wied Bassasa Il-Minkba | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | ★★ Extremities
| 30m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | |||||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Stairway to Heaven | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | Walls to Fall
| 14m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | Stairway to Heaven
| 14m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | Roads to Roam
| 14m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | Inri Varadi
| 11m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | ★★★ Whammer Jammer
| 12m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Behind the Wall | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | ★ Swift Undercut
The center of the wall | 6m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini The Nose | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | Chiara Bella
| 24m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c | |||||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Gape Cave | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c | Black Sweat
The overhanging grey corner. Awkward at best | 8m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Lurcher Cave | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c | Caqlembuta
Climb the central pillar moving right to a niche. Finish right up the V-gap in the overhangs | 6m | |||
6c | |||||
Malta Il-Latnija (Mellieħa Cave) | |||||
6c | ★★ Flutter By
| 12m | |||
Malta Radar Point Bellavista | |||||
6c | Day by Day
| 15m | |||
6c | Hurricane
| 12m | |||
6c | Burning the Candelas at both ends
| 22m | |||
Malta Radar Point Bellorama | |||||
6c | ★★ Eligo Letxorrea
| 17m, 7 | |||
Malta Radar Point The Corner | |||||
6c | The Tramp
| 27m | |||
Malta Radar Point West Wall | |||||
6c | ★★ Psyberica
| 15m | |||
Malta Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) Exterior - SE facing Wall | |||||
6c | ★★★ Predator
| 18m | |||
Malta Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) Gully - NW facing Wall | |||||
6c | ★ All in
| 17m | |||
Malta Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) Gully - SE facing Wall | |||||
6c | ★ Crazy Frank
| 19m, 10 | |||
6c | ★★ Daster of Misaster
| 20m | |||
Malta Fomm Ir-Rih Spezz Corner | |||||
6c | ★★★ Weight of Freedom
| 35m | |||
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) Bridge Cave | |||||
6c | Brandy
| 12m | |||
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) The Eye in the Sky | |||||
6c | ★★ Singing Daughters
| 15m | |||
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) White Walls | |||||
6c | Ladybird
| ||||
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) Cat's Arches | |||||
6c | ★★ The Vertical Gardener
| 25m | |||
6c | ★★★ The Lord of the Underclings
Starts at the anchor of Tufa moss. | 13m | |||
6c | Stock Market
Short bouldery route. Enjoyable moves. | 8m | |||
6c | Blade Runner
Starts at the anchor of Crimpy delight (to the right), and can also be climbed as extension of Regleta latina and Veggie shag pad | ||||
Malta Victoria Lines Blind Cave | |||||
6c | Jekk mhux twil ha tidgħi
| ||||
6c | Bla Permess
| ||||
6c | Owzown Frednli
| ||||
Malta Victoria Lines Crucifix Cave | |||||
6c | Life of Emanuela Direct
Set: Nicola Gatti, Dec 2022 | 19m | |||
6c | ★★ Life of Emanuela
| 20m, 8 | |||
6c | A Biscuit for Dixie
| 20m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave | |||||
6c | Jumped Up
| 9m | |||
6c | Bloodstone
| 9m | |||
6c | Cruel Jewel
| 9m | |||
6c | Jaguar Smile
| 12m | |||
6c | ★★ Black Panther
| 12m | |||
Malta Xaqqa | |||||
6c | My Corona
1
6c
26m
2
6b
30m
3
5a
30m
Starts approx 80m to the left of Klin Selvaġġ, with the 1st stance about 7m above the sea and approximately opposite the end part of the fin. Start can be accessed by abseiling in or climbing Xaqqa Sea Cliff Traverse. | 86m, 3 | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Magħlaq Cave | |||||
6c | M&Ms
| ||||
6c | Over the Hills and Far Away
| ||||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Corona Wall | |||||
6c | ★★ Pfizer
| 15m, 5 | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Learning to Fly Cave | |||||
6c | ★★ Er Capolavoro
| 15m | |||
6c | ★★★ Learning to Fly
| 16m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Twin Caves | |||||
6c | ★★ Le Poseur
| 20m | |||
Malta Blue Grotto Promontory Red Wall | |||||
6c | ★★★ Greek Odyssey Direct
1
6a
18m
2
6a+
12m
3
6c
25m
1st 2 pitches same as Greek Odyssey 3rd pitch: Vertical wall | 55m, 3 | |||
6c | ★★★ Soldier Blue
| 35m | |||
Malta Wied Babu Smoothies Cave | |||||
6c | ★ Pineapple Pleasure
| 18m | |||
6c | Blueberry Buzz
| 20m | |||
Malta Wied Babu West Side Story | |||||
6c | Apple Snatcher
| 18m | |||
Malta Wied Babu The Flying Arête | |||||
6c | ★★★ Fireworks Factory
FA: John Codling, 1990 | 20m | |||
6c | ★★★ Katia
FA: Italian Military Alpine School, 1995 | 26m | |||
Malta Garden of Eden Fearless Wall | |||||
6c | Legends Never Die
| ||||
Malta Garden of Eden Fearless Cave | |||||
6c | Find your way
Set: Nicola Gatti, Feb 2024 | 18m, 6 | |||
Malta Garden of Eden Għar Il-Barbaġann | |||||
6c | ★★★ Tufa Baroque
| 16m, 8 | |||
6c | TBC
| 14m | |||
Malta It-Tirxija Pillar Box Cave | |||||
6c | I Spy
Start 3m right. Up to ledge, then left through roof to shared anchor with NSOTL. | 21m | |||
Malta Blieqa | |||||
6c | Fat Lizard
| 16m | |||
Malta Wied il-Ħallelin | |||||
6c | ★★★ Plunder
1
5c
2
5c
3
6a+
4
6c
5
5c
| 77m, 5 | |||
Gozo Black Slabs | |||||
6c | ★★★ Grass on the Green
| 20m | |||
Gozo Dahlet Qorrot White Tower | |||||
6c | ★★★ Wee man in a Boat
| 25m | |||
Gozo San Blas Chalice of Malice Chalice of Malice Gully | |||||
6c | ★★★ Candy Coated Misery
| 18m | |||
6c | Firing Squad
| 20m | |||
Gozo San Blas Sopu Tower Cliffs | |||||
6c | ★★★ Crystal Nacht
| 22m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Waterworks Area Upstream Waterworks | |||||
6c | Sunshine After the Storm
| 16m | |||
6c | Skinhead
| ||||
6c | Sglodion (chips)
| ||||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Waterworks Area Waterworks Main Area | |||||
6c | Republic of Gozo
| ||||
6c | ★★ The Tower
| 25m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Champagne Walls | |||||
6c | ★★★ Unfinished Business
| 25m | |||
6c | Deliverance's Brother
| 25m |