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Routes in Malta for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 124 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Gape Cave
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c Black Sweat

The overhanging grey corner. Awkward at best

Trad 8m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Lurcher Cave
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c Caqlembuta

Climb the central pillar moving right to a niche. Finish right up the V-gap in the overhangs

Trad 6m
V2
Malta Għar Ħasan Wied Ħasan Bouldering
V2 The Leopard

Using hidden holds in a horizontal break. Dyno to a good jug up and left.

Boulder
V2 Falls to Climb

Get the high jug via moves to the right of the slot

FA: Jeffrey Camilleri, 1999

Boulder
V2 Pointfive

The easiest combination, from the slot with your right gain the flat hold direct with your left. Push for a jug high right. Slap up left.

FA: John Codling, 1999

Boulder
V2 Pointbreak

Using the slot for the right, gain the black flowstone with the left and then the good flat hold above. Continue up.

FA: Jeffrey Camilleri, 1999

Boulder
V2 Cuts Both Ways

The diagonal crack through the overhang just right.

FA: John Codling, 1999

Boulder
6b/b+
Malta Ħamrija Tower Cobra Cave
6b/b+ Panamademonium
Sport
{UK} E3 UKT:5b
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Hangover Area
{UK} E3 UKT:5b Turning Point

The left arete of the alcove, starting at a stalactite. Climb left of the thick black streak

Trad 9m
Malta Wied Qirda Grey Slabs Area
{UK} E3 UKT:5b Shake a Leg

Follow the corner moving left across a slab below a bush to gain a ramp. The bulge above to gain a crack constitutes the crux. Finish by traversing right past a nose to easier ground. If you are not imaginative in placing gear the grade will feel harder.

Trad 22m
Malta It-Tirxija It-Tirxija Wall
{UK} E3 UKT:5b Wish You Were Here?
1 5a
2 E3 5b
3 4a

7m right of Crossly Notes is a line up the vague white groove left of a steep red central pillar capped by a prow. Start 30m along the shelf just up and left of a vegetated ledge. Surprising holds.

20m 5a. Go diagonally left up the slabs to below the white groove. Awkward moves up the groove. Exit right across ledges to a 2 piton and nut belay.

40 5b. Traverse to the left end of the ledges. Bold moves lead up and left on black rock to a hole, 2 threads. Up and left again across a black wall, piton. After 3m move to regain the groove and improving holds (and gear), to under a leftward leaning overlap. After 3m traverse diagonally left to finish up a stragely featured wall right of a vegetated corner. Belay from cracks below easy slabs in the left side of the pillar above a prow.

20m 4a. Easy slabs trending as far right as you can to thread belays at a ledge. Magnificent!

Trad 80m, 3
{UK} E2/3 UKT:5b
Malta Wied Qirda Grey Slabs Area
{UK} E2/3 UKT:5b Sparky

The grey slabs to the right of CTTC

Trad 30m
{UK} E2 UKT:5b
Malta Victoria Lines Crucifix Cave
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Monkey Business
Trad 25m
Malta Wied Qirda Broken Buttress
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Cracking up

Re-evaluated today with Andy Warrington for sure an E2

Trad 22m
Malta Xaqqa
{UK} E2 UKT:5b The Problem

Takes the centre of the slab below the gap in the skyline overhangs. Bold finish.

Trad 21m
Malta Ghar Lapsi Magħlaq Cave
{UK} E2 UKT:5b ME 262
Trad 16m
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Bandits, 11 O'Clock
Trad 16m
Malta Ghar Lapsi Terry's Cave
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Last on the Bus
Trad 30m
Malta Blue Grotto Promontory Blue Wall
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Hello Boys

From the ledge diagonally left up the darkly coloured wall to a crack, (where you'll find an old piton). Up to a sloping ledge then the wall above. Move left to a crack in the rib. Up this until 5m below the top you can follow the diagonal crack heading right to finish.

FA: Kevin Glass, 1983

Trad 35m
Malta Wied Babu The Flying Arête
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Babu Invasion

FA: Andrew Warrington, 2003

Trad 25m
Malta It-Tirxija Continuation Wall
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Marianne's Faithful Cigarette
1 E1 5a 50m
2 E2 5b 50m
3 S 4a 15m
Trad 120m, 3
Malta Wied Bassasa Il-Minkba
{UK} E2 UKT:5b The NOvember of Life
Trad 35m
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Never as Good as the 1st Time
Trad 32m
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Goliath
Trad 30m
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Taurus Wall
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Tales of Ordinary Madness

Up the same weird pillar, exiting above the right hand stalagtite.

Trad 18m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) White Walls
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Toledo's Triumph

Start to the right of "Nina Technology" under the big hole and relatively straight up.

Trad 15m
Malta Victoria Lines Crucifix Cave
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Honeycomb Wall
Trad 19m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Stairway to Heaven
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Stunts to Cuff
Trad 14m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Celebration Area
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Hasty Exit

A small brown overhang left of the alcove direct

Trad 12m
Malta Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Bimbo Maniac
Trad 12m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Behind the Wall
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Disengagement

The bulge at the righthand end of the wall and above the start of the approach traverse

Trad 8m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Engagement

Just to the right of Razor crack, climb the whitish streak on the left side of the grey wall.

Trad 8m
Malta Wied Qirda Sphinx Buttress
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Black Spasm
Trad 18m
Malta Wied Qirda Broken Buttress
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Crackers
Trad 22m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Pastizzi Connection
Trad 22m
Malta Xaqqa
{UK} E1 UKT:5b No Bottle for Timmy

Step off a pointed brown flake and gain horizontal cracks. Trend past some rugosities. Go up to another horizontal break. Finish as for Island Games

Trad 22m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b The Loneliness of the Long Distance Runner

Start right of centre of the gap in the skyline overhangs. Go directly up the slab. Cross a horizontal break, then finish up the stained slab passing the overhangs on your right.

Trad 22m
Malta Wied Babu West Side Story
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Caravaggio
Trad 23m
Malta Wied Babu The Flying Arête
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Ariel / Vulcan

Brilliant lay-backing up the right side of the perched flake, starting at a shallow gully right of the dry stone wall, finishing up the thin diagonal crack.

FA: Simon Alden

Trad 25m
Malta It-Tirxija Continuation Wall
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Continuation Wall
1 E1 5a 30m
2 E1 5b 26m
3 E1 5b 26m

P1 - Ascend through the weakness in the overhangs. Climb the slab above aiming for its top left side.

P2 - Up the centre of the steeper slab above. Continue up with difficulty to a narrow ledge (a hanging plaque commemorates the 1st and 2nd ascents). Sign the guest book!

P3 - Continue up the exposed slab with good moves and exposure to the top.

FA: Corporal Deacon R.M., 1953

NA: C.N. Watson & J.D. Graham, 1967

Trad 82m, 3
Malta Wied Bassasa Il-Minkba
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Fat Old Sun
Trad 32m
Malta Wied Bassasa Il-Bajtra
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Leon Odelot Factum Est
Trad 22m
Malta Wied Żnuber
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Rokna

Climb from a corner at the bottom of the valley to a good ledge. Continue up a small overhang and then straight up.

Trad 16m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Minato

Climb up to a thin crack veering to the left. Follow its general direction through a sparse collection of good holds before exiting up.

FA: William Hicklin

Trad 16m
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Freedom Walls
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Foreign Interference

The rib just right of Freedom, taking the centre of the buttress past flakes then over a bulge using slopers

Trad 18m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Beyond the Call of Duty

Start at the column and take the bulging wall directly to the top

Trad 12m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Charge

Up the column and left past pockets to the horizontal break, up past an overhang and then the centre of the impending wall above

Trad 12m
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Champagne Walls
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Mama's Dirty Girls

The left side of the thin arete finishing up the groove. Loose.

Trad 28m
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Taurus Wall
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Taurus

Bulges directly below the split grey roof, avoiding the last bulge by stepping right and then back left. Jugs on the left wall help you past the overhanging wide crack.

Trad 18m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Biċċa Kejk (Piece of Cake)

Climb the weird pillar and exit above the left hand stalagtite or direct finish at 6a

Trad 18m
{UK} HVS UKT:5b
Malta Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Face-off
Trad 12m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faħam West Dam Crag
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Marmalade

The lefthand thin crack line right of the scoop with an awkward move to gain a ledge at half height. Step right to finish

Trad 14m
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Behind the Wall
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Temptation

Pockets just left of Birds Nest Crack.

Trad 6m
Malta Wied Qirda Broken Buttress
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Wild Boys
Trad 18m
Malta Ghar Lapsi Twin Caves
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Zonker

Climb awkwardly out of the back of the recess below Snowman, then finish up the wall trending right

Trad 25m
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Micro-Gem

Climb the steep flake crack on the right side of the cave past an old piton trending left. Finish up the excellent crack and wall above.

Trad 12m
Malta Wied Babu The Flying Arête
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Nimrod

FA: Royal Marine Commandos, 1966

Trad 24m
{UK} VS UKT:5b
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Villa Crag
{UK} VS UKT:5b Slanting Buttress Direct

The concrete filled groove on the right. Delicate and thin to start but gets progressively easier

Trad 12m
{UK} E1 FB:5B
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faħam West Ċikka
{UK} E1 FB:5B Wafer Wall

Boulder up the lefthand edge of the hollow on small, positive holds

Boulder 8m
6b
Malta Il-Latnija (Mellieħa Cave)
6b The Harpist

Short boulder at the rightmost end.

Sport 11m, 3
Malta Radar Point Bellavista
6b Let's go to the Joker
Sport 22m
Malta Radar Point Bellorama
6b Orange Sunshine
Sport 17m, 7
Malta Radar Point The Corner
6b Mummery
Sport 19m
6b Whymper
Sport 13m
6b Lady
Sport 27m
Malta Radar Point West Wall
6b No Dogs
Sport 15m
Malta Radar Point Wonderland
6b Soupy Crimp
Sport 17m
Malta Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) Gully - NW facing Wall
6b It's a small world
Sport 15m
Malta Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) Gully - SE facing Wall
6b Will It Stay Or Will It Go?
Sport 19m, 9
Malta Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) Gully Exterior - NE facing Wall
6b Communication Breakdown / Excalibur
Sport 15m
Malta Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) Gully Exterior SE facing Wall
6b Cold Burn
Sport 12m
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) Bridge Cave
6b Timbuktu
Sport 11m
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) White Walls
6b Regatta de Blanc
Sport 15m
6b Lili Marlene
Sport
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) Chapel Buttress
6b Chimney Exit

Short extension of 'Chim-Chimney'

Sport 5m, 8
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) Oil Drum Cave
6b Hungover Pidgeon
Sport
Malta Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) Cat's Arches
6b Rain Rush
Sport 20m
6b Tufa Moss
Sport 12m
6b Holey Moley

Can be climbed either by starting at the anchor of The Lord of the Crimps and Looked easier, or as extension of Crimpy delight.

Sport 10m
Malta Victoria Lines Crucifix Cave
6b The Boxer Extension

Set: Nicola Gatti, 2 Dec 2022

Sport 6m
6b Life of William
Sport 20m
Malta Wied Qirda Sphinx Buttress
6b Inscrutable Smile
Sport 18m
Malta Ghar Lapsi Corona Wall
6b AstraZeneca
Sport 15m, 5
6b Covid Rising
Sport 20m, 7
6b Alpha Variant

FA: Nicola Gatti, 19 Mar 2023

Sport 25m, 10
Malta Ghar Lapsi Quarry steps
6b Summer Thyme
Sport 28m
6b 2 Blind Mice

FA: n. gatti & C. pontt

Sport 28m, 10
Malta Ghar Lapsi Terry's Cave
6b Granny's Seat

Start 3m right of LDLH. Up and trend right to shared finish with FOTB.

Sport 18m
6b Henry
Sport 18m
Malta Ghar Lapsi Learning to Fly Cave
6b Altar of Stone
Sport 6m
6b Ghengis Can't
Sport 15m
Malta Ghar Lapsi Twin Caves
6b Scoop and Arête
Sport 24m
Malta Ħamrija Tower Cobra Cave
6b Solstice

FA: James Herrera, 2014

Sport
6b Equinox

FA: Stephen Farrugia, 2014

Sport
Malta Blue Grotto Promontory Red Wall
6b Greek Odyssey
1 6a 18m
2 6a+ 12m
3 6b 25m

1st pitch: Low level traverse 2nd pitch: Slight overhang 3rd Pitch: Traverse and roof

Sport 55m, 3
6b Prism
1 5c 15m
2 6a 15m
3 6b 20m

First Pitch is a traverse above the sea level

FA: Anna Gre

Sport 50m, 3
Malta Wied Babu Diamond Buttress
6b Hazy Shade of Winder
Trad 22m
6b Man Saturday
Trad 22m
Malta Garden of Eden Fearless Wall
6b Paloma
Sport
6b Microphallus
Sport

Showing 1 - 100 out of 124 routes.

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