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Wied Babu
Climbing in Wied Babu in Malta is quite an eri experience, it is in an dried out cannon. It is easy to imagine the whole cannon being full of water and may even be come full while you are climbing, but that is not the case. It is also interesting because of the old man and his gun, shooting at the birds all day long. We never saw him hit anything but every 15min you will hear the gun. As the story goes he has taken shots at climbers, although we never got shoot at. |
Bobo's Block
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Bobo's Block |
4c
Bobo's Corner
First route to the left when looking at the bolder. Start between the vegetation and the corner of the block |
5b
Galea's Route
Runs up the crack line |
4c
★★★ John Graham
Start under the little bolder and up over the roof |
5c
★★ The Twilight Zone
Start 2 meters right of John Graham, past the roof, follow the crack then up |
5b
Bobo's Roof
Starts under the right corner of the big block, past the roof and up the arete |
4b
Gallerija
start 1 meter to left of Bobo's roof, into corner |
4b
Dora c
Variante of Gallerija, half way up the corner head right of the bolder |
Diamond Buttress
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Diamond Buttress |
6a
★ Out of Order
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4c
The Diamond Facet
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a+
★★ Kleen Kutter
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5b
★★ Shredded Tweet
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4b
Diamond Buttress
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4b
Diamond Chimney
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a+
★★ Mononerone
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5a
★★ Owls Nest Crack
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4c
Owls Nest Traverse
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a+
★★ Italian Bolt Route
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c
★★ In the Nick
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7a
Le Lune di Nunzia
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c
★ Pipino il Breve
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6b
★★ Man Saturday
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c
★ Asia la Vandala
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6b
Hazy Shade of Winder
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a+
★★ Bentornati a Malta
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5b
★ Rat Route
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5b
★ Overhanging Crack
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Central Chimneys
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Central Chimneys |
HVD
Why Knot
Takes the left edge of the two massive flakes perched up and right of the clearing |
VD
Know Knot
Ascend the short white wall just right of the vegetation to a terrace. Trend left to the pointed flake, then directly to the top. A direct start climbs the bulge left of the vegetation at VS 4c - 'Knot on your Life' |
5a
★ Daylight Robbery
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
VD 4c
★★★ Central Chimneys
From the vegetated terrace follow the cracks and blocks up the overlap. |
5b+
★★ The Arete of Babu Fett
To the left of Florance. Recognizable by the darker red tone of the glue, compared to all the other routes. |
5a
★★ Florance
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5a
★★ Acida
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5a
★★ Flake Climb / Mania
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
VS 4c
Maltese Boys Climb
Climb the wall to the left of the leaning block to reach its vegetated top |
HVS 5a
★ Maltese Girls in Leather
Continue from the top of the leaning block to another vegetated ledge. Move right along this to a niche then delicately left towards a scoop. Up the overlap to finish. |
Il-Blata ta' Għanċula
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Il-Blata ta' Għanċula |
V1
Blackhead
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
E3 6b
Blockhead
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
E2 5c
Bambleweenie-57 Sub-Meson Atomic Brain
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
E2 6a
Short-Circuit
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
The Flying Arête
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
The Flying Arête |
5b
★★ Karma e Gesso
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
HVS 5b
★★★ Nimrod
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c
★★ Foreign Interference
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
E2 5b
★★ Babu Invasion
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c
★★ Viva il Capo
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6b+
★★★ The Flying Arete
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5b
★★ Wall Climb / Monica
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a+
★★ Piccoli
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
E1 5b
★★★ Ariel / Vulcan
Brilliant lay-backing up the right side of the perched flake, starting at a shallow gully right of the dry stone wall, finishing up the thin diagonal crack. |
6a
★★ Denny
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a+
★★ Exposure
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6c
★★★ Katia
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6b+
★★★ Nero's Revenge
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
E3 6a
Ġenn
Starting from a gorse filled ledge, up the slab and thin curving crack to the hanging piton. Desperately left into the sloping groove. Finish more easily up the upper slabs. |
6c
★★★ Fireworks Factory
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6b+
★ Sferico
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6c+
L'Uomo Tappeto
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
E3 5c
★★ Intimmydation
Start in the middle of the vegetated ledge system. Up a poorly protected slab to better geared slabs then small ledges below the steep wall. Gain a diagonal fault (camming Ns). Spaced hidden moves out right then a step back left over an overlap to reach a belay. |
HVS 4c
★ Enigma
Climb up to the crescent shaped vegetated ledge at half height. Move up and left across the steep slab then back right to finish 3m left of the curving crack. |
VS 4c
Elektra
Up the curving crack to reach a line which traverses left across the Enigma slab, finishing up easier ground well to the left. |
VS 4c
★ Curving Crack
Follows the tempting, open curving flake crack, majestically lay-backing the overlap using hexes and cams. A classic. The Italian Military extended the route, starting from a ledge 7m down (good) and unnecessarily bolted it to death (bad). |
D
★★ RH Rib
Start up Curving Crack but then move right to finish up the rib. |
4b
★★ Cile
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
MD
Back Crack
From the base of Curving Crack traverse right below a nose to finish up the crack on the right. Exposed and scrappy. |
West Side Story
The climbing here in west side story is very sharp and sea worn. As with the rest of Malta it is mostly trad climbing although from time to time there are people putting up bolted routes. However dont expect this to be a growing trend, bolting is discouraged. |
West Side Story |
6b+
★★★ Two in the Stink
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6b+
★★★ Dirty Rotten Scoundrels
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
HVS 5a
Co-opego
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
VS 4c
Raiders of the Parked Car
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
VS 4c
★★ Nookie Cushion
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
HVS 5a
Toqbi (holey)
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
E1 5a R
Bogies Wall
Rock is flaky on the thin part and hard to protect. R rating for a potential fall onto the ledge below. Take care. |
HVS 5a
★ West side Story
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
HVS 5a
★★ Topkapi
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c
★★ Three Amigos
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
E1 5b
Caravaggio
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6b+
L-Aqwa Klajm
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6c+
Cat Burglar
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7a
She’s Tough
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6c
Apple Snatcher
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7a
Up Dog
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c
★★ Gates to Babylon
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c
Call out the cops
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a+
★★ V for Vendetta
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6c+
Rock Salt
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
HD
Ericaceous Corner
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
S 4a
Warmup Climb
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
VS 4c
Potho
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Smoothies Cave
Large cave on the west side of the valley |
Smoothies Cave |
7b
★★ Tropical Sunshine
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7a
★★ Superberry Heaven
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6c+
★ Cherry Buzz
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6c
Blueberry Buzz
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7b
Banana Rainbow
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |