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Telopea

Seasonality

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Summary

Premium quality lines

Description

Guaranteed good time

Approach

Rappel from the top or approach from the bottom of the cliffs. Access to Telopea is via short traversing pitch from an elevated ledge of ferns. After rounding the first arétte you will find two bolts, the belay for Onward and Upward. To access the rest of the routes, follow the fixed ropes around a second arette to a larger ledge.

Where to stay

On board the ships prow

Ethic

Minimal impact

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Huge ramp, potentially the best pure slab climb in the South Pacific, not that there's much competition... Only route that tops out and bolted as such that crux's can be aided, roughly 18 M1. Delicate moves on low angle mingers and pockets. Move belay 3m left to the rap chains when topping out.

After leaving the anchors you are deposited at after rappelling, step right around vegetated corner. Slightly bouldery move easily aided to gain chossy looking break continuing through it for about a metre then step around the arete and an anchor will be visible. Continue upwards for access to OOE, TP and BTTW. Use fixed line to move safely around the next arete to rest of the routes.

A truely exceptional climb. The real climbing starts beneath the headwall.

FA: BP

An excellent intricate and sustained line! The original line started from the small ledge 7m above the main hang out ledge, hence the belay bolts. The direct start was added later and definitely completes the entire line, it goes at 27. Aid through the crux with relative ease to climb the main route from the ledge.

FFA: GB

Punch out the boulder problem, reset at the ledge and remember to have fun.

FFA: GB

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Thu 20 Apr
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