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Nodes in El Chanchuillo

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El Chanchuillo

This is it - the famous El Chonta cave with steep climbing, loads of stalactites, single pitch and super steep multi-pitch lines.

Most of the cave stays shaded all day, just the right side may see some morning sun depending on the season. Be aware that there is a lot of "wildlife", namely loads of moskitos and other insects during the warmer and wetter season.

This is the left side of the cave from the "entrance" down to the phallus feature. Great routes with

This is the left side of the cave from the "entrance" down to the phallus feature. Great routes with good warm-ups and some real classics, enjoy!

5.10c Katman

Easiest route all the way to the left of the cave, probably not as much fun as any in the cave though! Shares the last 6 bolts and anchor with Fructisica.

5.11c Fructaliser

Second one from left to right. Starts with the overhang behind the tree. Better than Katman, and it keeps getting better to the right! Shares last 6 bolts and anchor with Katman.

5.11c Variant Fructaliser

Starts with a high first bolt right of the big tree. Traverses to the right along tufas and up straight to anchors just above the small lip.

Variant Fructaliser Extension

'Variant Fructaliser' with its extension after the first anchor on the more vertical terrain.

5.11b El Aliado

The route starting just 2 meters left of Seres Inorganicos. A tough start leads to very enjoyable climbing to a spicy finish. Shares the anchor with Seres Inorganicos.

5.11a Seres Inorganicos

The route just right of El Aliado. Brilliant, unique climbing that packs a punch. Solid at the grade. Last route starting on the right of the nice platform before the terrain drops steeper into the cave.

5.12d Ataxco

The obvious super-overhanging line that follows the "fang-line" of the left hand side of the cave. Another classic!

5.12d La Cascada

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.12c UNKNOWN

NO ANCHORS ON THIS ONE!

El Jaguar

This is the classic 12d of the bottom of the cave. From the biggest mud platform you will be able to see in the wall, written in black at about 2.5m up, "El Jaguar". Up the tufas into multiple steep, tough, pumpy cruxes with excellent rests and moves in between. Very long!

5.13a El Jaguar RHV

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.12d La Gran Tufa

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.10 Insecto Palo

It has many rest before the anchors, it is a good route to introduce the tufas world of el chonta, it ends in the cave of the top.

5.12b La Onza

Starts just left of Mantis on enoyable tufas before it becomes steep towards the anchor.

5.12b Mantis

Just left of the phallus feature at the cave's bottom. Climb up the tufas into inclined rooflet, crank above this and don't pump out!

This is the bottom area of the cave starting right of the big phallus feature with hard and long rou

This is the bottom area of the cave starting right of the big phallus feature with hard and long routes. This section ends up at the right at the right side of the arch feature with the slab below it and left of the tree directly at the cliff.

5.12a Mala Fama (primer largo)

Just right of the phallus feature at the cave's bottom. Pumpy, fun, unique, and excellent climbing. Trends slightly right.

5.13a Mala Fama (pitches 2 to 7)

Mala Fama (primer largo) and these 6 pitches are the ultimate route in the cave! 5 super steep pitches followed by 2 vertical ones. Top it out at pitch 7! No anchors XD!!

For easier ticking the first and popular pitch is listed as individual route ("Mala Fama (primer largo)").

Bring about 18 draws - some (or mostly) long ones.

5.12c La Cruzada

Starts just a few meters right of Mala Fama and takes a right on the low ramp.

5.13b Perdiendo La Forma Humana (primer largo)

Starts right of the wall where Mala Fama is, just where the caves drops a bit further and has a steep start.

5.13b Perdiendo La Forma Humana (2do largo)

2nd (INCOMPLETE) pitch of Perdiendo la Forma Humana.

5.13b Tufota Madre

Starts just left of the obvious line of Mexicano Perdido.

5.14a Mexicano Perdido

The steep overhanging arete. Belayer, be careful!

5.13d/14a Nalgaditas Legendarias

The crack in the corner just right of Mexicano Perdido.

5.13c Aguila Magnetica Azul

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.13c Chanchuyeando

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.13d El Ermitaño

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.13d Planta Baja

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.13d Magico Mistico Musical

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.12b/c Conocimiento Silencioso

Starts with a strechy move on to a sharp obvious crimp

5.13a Ay Doctor!

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.13a Jaime Maussan

Starts left of the thin white tufa below the obvious big horizontal crack / slit feature on the wall.

5.13b La Verdad Irrefutable

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.13b El Gran Espiritu

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.12c El Aguila que Devora

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.12c El águila - Cruzi

Conexión entre El águila que devora y Tripanozoma cruzi. Disfrute el crux de las dos vías, super hermosa conexión. Empieza en El águila hasta el descanso "la silla" y termina con el crux de Tripanozoma.

5.12c Trypanosoma Cruzi

Follows the light brown and left trending tufa line to an anchor on the light brown tufas at the edge of the steep wall. Mostly long slings! Lots of friction!

5.12a El Corrido de los Procopio

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.13b La Lola

Starts just left of Mezcalito, trends left and passes the slab to an anchor up right.

5.12d Mezcalito

Hermosa ruta. Empieza atrás de una piedra grande, a la izquierda del árbol (no lo pisen, por favor). Se recomienda pre-proteger la primera cinta. Crux arriba.

5.11d Tomate Suavecito para el Campeón (primer largo)

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.13a Tomate Suavecito para el Campeón (pitches 2 to 5)

These are pitches 2 to 5. Together with "Tomatela Suavecito para la Corrupcion (primer largo)" this is a 5 pitch route. Bring 2 60m ropes to reach the ground!

  • Pitch 2 is a "scramble" up the well structured slab
  • Pitch 3 goes through the roof
  • Pitch 4 starts on the 2nd and smaller slab above the slab with the easy routes, you can see the anchor from below.
Desconocido 1

Starts on the right side of the steep section, goes right and left to the anchor of "Tomate Suavecito para el Campeón (primer largo)".

5.10a Mingo

Access pitch to 2 extensions.

5.12+ Hercolubus

Segundo largo de Mingo, a la izquierda.

5.12c El Año de La Rata

Segundo largo de Mingo, a la derecha.

5.10a Amateur

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.11b T-800

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.10b Minibar

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.10a Desconocido 3

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

Reina del Sur

This is the upper right section starting right of the tree.

5.13a Feminazi

Follows the left side of the arch and goes up straight in the middle over the small slab on top of the arch. Left route from El Amate Amarillo

5.13b Silencio Interno

Starts left of Amate Amarillo and goes all the way up.

5.12c Amate Amarillo

Ultra Classic of the easier routes in the cave. Starts just right of the tree next to the cliff and trends out left on the line of tufas.

5.13c Las Tres Atenciones

Extension of Amate Amarillo going up high next to the "blank stripe".

5.12c Súper Luna

Comienza a la izquierda de La Guerrera Cósmica: HAz una travesía hacia la izquierda hasta encontrarte con El Amate Amarillo.

5.12d Guerrera Cosmica

Awesome left trending line with a distinct low crux. Follows smaller tufas to a great rest after the steepest part and continues easier but pumpy.

5.13d El Pendulo

Starts on Guerrera Cosmica and traverses left after bolt 7 and continues on Amate Amarillo for its last 2 bolts to follow its extension (Las Tres Atenciones) to the anchors.

5.14a Revelacion Cosmica

Left extension of Guerrera Cosmica.

5.13d Mago Colibri

Right extension of Guerrera Cosmica.

5.12a La Bocina

The obvious line leading through the most structured part of the wall. Slightly trending left. Bolted with glue-ins.

5.12b Efecto Gatillo

Extension of La Bocina.

5.13a El Tigrillo

The extension of La Bocina branching off right before the anchor of La Bocina.

5.13a Bio

The shortest line on this section of the cliff with an anhcor left above the prominent ledge next to a small tree.

5.13c Bio Tigre

A link-up of Bio and El Tigrillo.

5.13b Pepita de Oro

The left extension after the ledge.

5.13c Jugo de Toronja

The right extension after the big ledge.

5.12d Vía Láctea

Short bouldery route with anchor just above the ledge. Starting on the ledge to the right.

5.13d Suc de Chocolat

This is a combination of "Vía Láctea" and "Suc de Toronja".

5.12d Reina del Sur

Trends out right of the steep part of the wall to anchors at the orange double stripe.

5.12b Sictch

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.12a Farrita

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

5.10b Mini Bar

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.

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