Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Peña de Bernal Los Bernalitos | |||||
5.10b/c | ★ Alea iacta est
Se aproxima por una rampa de repisas 4ta clase hasta la primer placa, donde se inicia el ascenso vertical Set: Juan Carlos Oviedo | 20m, 11 | |||
5.10c | ★ Pacheca
Set: Ulises Cervantes | 15m | |||
5.10c/d | tumba pepinos
Set: Ulises Cervantes | 11 | |||
5.10c | Sin nombre
Set: Ulises Cervantes P. | 11 | |||
5.10c | El asesino de la luz roja
Set: Saúl Cervantes | ||||
5.12c/d | Buenas muchachas (warriors)
Set: Ulises Cervantes, Javier Barrueta & Juan Carlos Oviedo | 12 | |||
Peña de Bernal La Peña (single & multipitch) North Wall | |||||
5.12a/b | ★★★ El Día del Cactus
1
5.5
2
5.12a/b
3
5.8
4
5.8
5
5.8
6
5.11a
7
5.10a
8
5.9
From Chichidho follow the trail that goes right towards the monolith, and when you hit a sharp left take it, it will lead you to the multiple single pitch routes, this route is the one with 2 anchors at the end of the ramp. Grades according to the local guide book, 7 pitches if you don´t consider the approach pitch.
Bring two ropes to rappel, or an 80 m rope FA: Rob Powell, Edna Calvo, Moises Hernandez & Miguel de Icaza, 10 Jan 2016 | 240m, 8, 15 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Godzilla
1
5.9
2
5.10a
3
5.10a
4
5.10d
Godzilla Climbs to the right of King Kong on the King Kong Buttress. It starts just bellow King Kong. Another great addition to the wall. Destined to be a classic. A standard rack of 14 quickdraws and a 70m rope is all that is needed for the climb.
Rappel straight down the route with a 70m rope. A 60m rope WILL NOT get you down! FA: Annette & Jerry Daniels, 1 Mar 2022 FFA: Annette & Jerry Daniels, 4 Mar 2022 | 130m, 4, 14 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ King Kong La Bestia Electromecánica
1
5.10c
2
5.10b
3
5.10b
4
5.10c
5
5.7
6
5.10b
7
5.10a
8
5.4
From the Chichidho lodge: Head on trail straght towards the peña. The trail will trend right. When you hit a sharp left, take it. You will go past a boulder, and eventually veer right again towards the King Kong buttress. Walk past the ramp-like feature on your left. King Kong is identifiable for a round, nook-like intentation in the rock right below three close bolts.
Rap down the route following the bolts, exactly were you climbed up. There as been many people who mistaken the rap route and got in trouble. Set: Luis Carlos Garcia, Bernardo Ezeta & Mathias Ape FA: Luis Carlos Garcia, Bernardo Ezeta & Mathias Ape | 230m, 8, 15 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Espolón Central
1
5.9
2
5.8
3
5.8
4
5.7
5
5.9
6
5.8
7
5.7
Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Ramos, 17 Sep 2017 | 220m, 6, 12 | |||
5.11d/12a | Tierra de Cuervos
The crux pitch (11d/12a) is the third pitch, the two pitches below are around 11s, an the two pitches above are around 10s Recomendaciones: - Cuerda de 70 m - 15 Tenchas Acceso: Subir por el camino que va hacia la Quiote Wall, teniendo la pared al lado derecho, seguir ese camino hasta llegar a la base del cañon. Subir por el cañón hasta casi el final. La ruta se encuentra al fondo del cañon del lado derecho, como a 20 metros a la izquierda de Meteoro Pegaso. Descenso por meteoro pegaso: Se baja por donde se sube. OJO, el tercer largo mide un poco más de 30 metros por lo que se recomienda utilizar una cuerda de 70 metros. Set: Stefano Nicetto FA: Stefano Nicetto | 160m, 5 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Meteoro Pegaso
1
5.11d
2
5.11d
3
5.11c
4
5.10c
5
5.8
Recomendaciones:
Acceso: Subir por el camino que va hacia la Quiote Wall, teniendo la pared al lado derecho, seguir ese camino hasta llegar a la base del cañon. Subir por el cañón hasta casi el final. La ruta se identifica por una piedra con forma triangular/cónica con un bolt a la izquierda de esa roca. Descenso: Se baja por donde se sube. OJO, el tercer largo mide un poco más de 30 metros por lo que se recomienda utilizar una cuerda de 70 metros. Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Ramos, 19 Sep 2017 FA: Rodrigo Ramos & Santiago Vaca, 23 Sep 2017 | 160m, 5 | |||
Peña de Bernal La Peña (single & multipitch) West Wall | |||||
5.12b | El canto del zenzontle
the route all the way to the left on the overhung wall Set: Santiago Vaca, Jan 2017 FA: Santiago Vaca, 6 Feb 2017 | ||||
Canta y no llores
Set: Santiago Vaca, 15 Sep 2023 | |||||
5.12c | Ometeotl
the route to the right of el canto del zenzontle, is also on the overhung wall Set: Santiago Vaca, 6 Nov 2017 FA: Santiago Vaca, 25 Nov 2017 | ||||
Calaverita de azúcar
Set: Santiago Vaca, 2016 | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ El Filo Noroccidental
1
5.9
50m
2
5.8
50m
3
5.6
40m
4
5.7
50m
5
5.5
70m
6
5.6
20m
7
5.10a
35m
The classic on the Northwest side. Exposed ridge climbing to the summit with great views on excellent rock. Access either from Rancho Chichi'Dho or the Bernal parking above the city. Follow the trail that links the parking with Chichi'Dho until you see the nice wooden sign for El Filo Noroccidental. Hike up the trail, pass the huge overhanging boulder on the left and take the trail left to the wall. You will find expansion and glue-in bolts next to each other on pitch one. Descent: There are 2 options, on the summit either hike left and pass the crosses. Scramble down a few round boulders (past some anchors) towards the top of the via ferrata. Rap down in 2 rappels along the via ferrata (if you have a 80m rope you can make it down to the first 4 iron bars of the ferrata in one go and downclimb the last few meters). Scramble down until you reach the tourist path and hike back to town. Alternatively there is a brand new rap line (as of March 2019) right on the summit just a few meters from the top anchor of El Filo Noroccidental.
Additional gear: not really needed, you might want to sling one or the other chicken-head. | 320m, 7, 14 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Cadena Nebular
1
5.8
23m
2
5.8
27m
3
5.10b
28m
4
5.8
30m
5
5.9
30m
6
5.11b
40m
7
5.10a
35m
A newer line leading up to the last pitch of "El Filo Noroccidental". Access as for El Filo Noroccidental but continue up higher (taking a right from the horizontal trail leading to the wall of El Filo Noroccidental) until you see the bolt-line going up the slab. 14-16 quickdraws is more than enough to link pitches for this one. Descent: as for El Filo Noroccidental or "La Bernalina"
Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Ramos, 16 Aug 2017 FA: Santiago Vaca & rodrigo ramos, 25 Aug 2017 | 210m, 7, 9 | |||
5.13a A0 | ★★ Gondwana
1
5.11b
2
5.10
3
5.10
4
5.12a A0
5
5.13a
6
5.10
Largo 5.13a después del A0 es un techo desplomado que va en diagonal | 300m, 6, 18 | |||
5.13a/b | Bristol Fashion
1
5.13a/b
30m
2
5.12c
40m
3
5.12b
25m
4
5.12c
30m
5
5.12a
45m
6
5.10d
60m
Some loose rock in the lower pitches, excellent quality higher up. Set: Ben Walters & Oriol Anglada, Nov 2014 | 230m, 6, 17 | |||
5.10b | ★ Unknown 1
Right of EFS. | ||||
5.10b | ★ Unknown 2
Right of U1. | ||||
5.10a | ★ Unknown 3
Right of U2. | ||||
5.10b | ★ Unknown 4
Right of U3. | ||||
5.10a | ★ Unknown 5
Right of U4. | ||||
Unknown 6
Right of U5. Joins La Bernalina. | 7 | ||||
Peña de Bernal La Peña (single & multipitch) Closed South Wall (Bernalina Wall) Sunshine Wall | |||||
5.5 | Begginer
Left of el Filo Suroeste | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ Filo Suroeste
1
5.9
2
5.10b
3
5.7
4
5.2
5
5.8
6
5.3
Only bolted route on the Sunshine Wall as of Dec 2022 (All other routes have fixed hangers), it is also one of the classics and less busy. The start is at the top of the ramp on the left when facing the black streak. It is best to go back down through la Via Ferrata, see details in La Bernalina. | 280m, 6, 16 | |||
5.8 | El Rosal
Runout line of bolts to a mid-wall rooflet half way to the anchors. | 18m | |||
5.10a | ★★ La Vaca Loca
The second most popular route on the wall. It can be linked to el Filo Suroeste. | 24m | |||
5.10b | ★★ Vuelo Sin Ti
Second route to the left of the black water streak in the middle of the wall. | 30m | |||
5.10a | ★★ Red Rock Route
Left of the black water streak in the middle of the wall. | 30m | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Black Streak
The black and water-polished route in the middle of the wall. | 24m | |||
5.7 | Dihedral Route
Last route on the right side of the wall, crumbly and with wide bolt spacing. | 23m | |||
Peña de Bernal La Peña (single & multipitch) Closed South Wall (Bernalina Wall) | |||||
5.9 | ★★★ La Bernalina
1
5.6
25m
2
5.8
27m
3
5.9
50m
4
5.5
40m
5
5.8
20m
6
5.9
48m
7
5.1
10m
This is the classic Bernalina! Epic multi-pitch. To descend, preferably have somebody who has gotten to the top and rapped down before. You will need two ropes. You can either rap down the way you came (only recommended if you can't find the rap station that I will tell you about in a sec) or you go to the cross, go down to the left of it, scramble all the way down and right to a huge drop (slab of white rock), here be VERY careful or have your buddy secure you so you can go and find the anchors from which you can rap down to a place where you can walk off to the right until you find a via ferrata, where you rap again another, more positive slab. From there on, scamble down. If you go on the rap near the cross, a single 60m ropes will be enough, there's an intermediate station on the first rap.
P1 & P2 can be easily linked with a 60m rope, and you still have 5~7m of rope left. P6 & P7 can be linked in one go with a 60m rope (barely 2~3m left) as long as you build the anchor on the first point (there are 4 anchor at the top at least). | 220m, 7, 10 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Las Placas Rosas / El camino del Yiyo
1
5.10a
20m
2
5.9
25m
Un multilargo muy bonito, el inicio es lo más duro de la ruta. Para identificarle los bolts son rosas. En el 2° largo se debe hacer una travesía a la izq para juntarse con La Bernalina o travesía a la derecha para seguir en ELODLL. A la derecha el grado es más fuerte. | 45m, 7, 12 | |||
5.10a | ★★ El Lado Obscuro de La Luna
To the right of Gigio (right of La Bernalina). Better protected than LB. | 300m, 7, 18 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Horizonte de Estrellas
Right of ELODLL, Can rap off second anchors. | 300m, 7, 14 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Asuntos Exteriores
7m up past HDE. Last route on this wall. Can take trad gear to protect certain runouts. | 300m, 5, 14 | |||
5.7 | ★ Servicio Exterior
The most right bolted route on the South Wall. It is about 30m uphill from La Bernalina.
Both pitches can be combined into one. | 45m, 2, 8 | |||
Peña de Bernal La Peña (single & multipitch) East Wall | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Puma
Friction slab on the obvious slab right and down from AE. | 75m, 2, 7 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ El Grillo Asesino
1
5.10a
2
5.10b
3
5.10b
4
5.8
5
5.11a
6
5.8
7
5.11a
8
5.4
Right and around Puma, this route goes straight up and finishes almost next to the rap station at the top. | 300m, 8, 10 | |||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho La Meada | |||||
5.12d | La Meada
Starts with a boulder problem, continue the traverse along the roof and from there go into vertical terrain to get to the chains. | 11 | |||
5.11a | Larry
Shares the first bolt with La Meada and it goes straight up. | 8 | |||
5.12a | Chicoria
Short and explosive, a fun route with various steps. | 7 | |||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho El Capitan Calzon El Capitan Calzon | |||||
5.11d | ★ La Edsonina
Left of RDA. | 12m | |||
5.12b | ★★ Rey del Acido
Left of AVHBCLMVDAALLDLL. Pumper. | 12m | |||
5.11c | ★★ Alguna Vez has bailado con la Muerte vestida de Azul a la Luz de la Luna?
Left of LQC. | 12m | |||
5.10c | ★★ Los que Cuelgan
Left of PP. | 12m | |||
5.9 | ★ Papa Pitufo
First route after the ravine. | 12m | |||
5.10a | ★ La Libelula
First route on the left when entering the Ravine. Crimpy. | 12m | |||
5.10b | ★★ La Loca
Right of LL. | 12m | |||
5.10d | ★★ La Nora
Right of La Loca. | 12m | |||
5.10c | ★★ El Gran Calavera
Right of LN and deepest route in the ravine. | 12m | |||
5.10a | ★★★ El Capitan Calzon
Left of LQSA. | 12m | |||
5.12a | ★★ La que se Ahorco
Left of LGF. | 12m | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Los Gemelos Fantasticos
First route on the right when going inside the ravine. | 12m | |||
5.10a | ★★ La Sociedad Rangel
Left of LVE. | 12m | |||
5.12c/d | ★★★ La Vaca Echada
Left of LP, a moron broke a key foothold, most likely increasing the difficulty of the route. | 12m | |||
5.12a | ★★ Los Pachecos
Left of LSG. | 12m | |||
5.10b | ★★ La Super Gallina
Left of ESP. | 12m | |||
5.10b | ★ El Super Pollo
If coming from Boulder City, go left (straight) when you reach El Capitan Calzon. This is the first route on the left face with the roof. The bolts have been chopped. | 12m | |||
5.9 | ★★ La Lechuga
If coming from Boulder City, go right when you reach El Capitan Calzon. This is the first route on the right face. | 12m | |||
5.9 | ★★ Your Sister
Right of LL. | 12m | |||
5.9 | ★★ Time to Fly
Right of YS. | 12m | |||
5.9 | ★★ Free your Spirit
Right of TTF. | 12m | |||
5.11b | ★★ La Soberbia
Right of FYS. | 12m | |||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Quiote Buttress | |||||
5.10- | ★★★ Wings of the Wind
1
5.9
2
5.7
3
5.7
4
5.10-
5
5.8
6
5.7
7
5.9
8
5.7
9
5.7
10
5.9
11
5.8
12
5.9
13
5.10-
Born from the vision of Jerry and Annette Daniels, Wings of the Wind starts at the base of the Pena Gorda following a series of ramps and faces to join the upper pitches of Filo Noroccidental making a superb route of 14 pitches. Completed in 2020 over a 2 month period the pair lead bolted every pitch to make an authentic journey through the immaculate stone of the Pena De Bernal. Pitch 4: there are two options for climbing pitch 4, one goes straight up the gold face at 10+ and the other starts slightly to the left and follows an arching curve at 10- but can be french freed. Pitch 6: From the top of pitch 6 use the cable hand rail and walk 50 feet to the right to the start of pitch 7. Pitch 7: At the top of pitch 7 coil the rope and walk on clean rock trending right to the start of the trail on the right hand side of the wall. Follow the trail down to the base of pitch 8. Pitch 10: 4 alpine draws are very helpful for eliminating rope drag on pitch 10! The are needed at the first three bolts after the step-across move. Pitch 11: bypass the two glue in bolts and continue up to the next set of anchors at 40m. Pitch 13: at the top of 13 use new glue in bolts 5m past the old rusty anchor bolts to belay. It is possible to link pitches 2 and 3. pitches 5 and 6. pitches 8 and 9 can also be linked but a running belay of 30 feet is needed due to the length of the pitches. FA: Set: Annette Daniels & Jerry Daniels, 6 Apr 2020 FFA: Annette Daniels & Jerry Daniels, 30 Apr 2020 FA: Jerry Daniels & Annette Daniels, 30 Apr 2020 | 430m, 13, 15 | |||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Quiote Wall | |||||
5.8 | ★★★ Delights of The Maguey
On the far right of the wall take a left leaning ramp to the vertical wall and continue on fun featured rock. Great first lead. FA: Annetee & Jerry Daniels FFA: Annette, 5 Apr 2022 | 30m, 12 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Dance of the Concheros
Thin Technical start leads to sustained climbing, pulling past small roof. cruiser moves to belay. A route that gives you plenty of climbing FA: Annette & Jerry Daniels, 7 Apr 2022 FFA: Jerry Daniels, 9 Apr 2022 | 30m, 14 | |||
5.10d | ★★★ QuiQuiztli
Start left of the large water pocket. Follow ramp to the right to clip the first bolt. FFA: Jerry Daniels, 4 Apr 2022 FA: Annette & Jerry Daniels, 4 Apr 2022 | 14m, 5 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Xochitl's Batalla
1
5.10c
2
5.10a
3
5.8
4
5.9
Located on the north side of la peña on the Quiote buttress with access from Chichi-Dho. It is a well bolted 4 pitch route, takes a standard 12 draw rack and a 60 meter rope. Rappel the route; each anchor is bolted with three anchor bolts with two having chains and one extra bolt. The top anchor has bolts and rings for rope management on rappel.
Top out on a large ledge with a small cactus garden. There is an anchor with rings that facilitate good rope management on rappel and an additional bolt for the safety of a second person. | 120m, 4, 14 | |||
5.8 | ★★★ My Squirrel Friend
Start is a right leaning ramp with the route trending left to a highly featured finish. Set: Jerry Daniels & Annette Daniels, 13 Apr 2020 FA: Annette Daniels, 15 Apr 2020 | 30m, 10 | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Muad'Dib
Tecky start leads to a bulge finish | 30m, 12 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ The Golden Ticket
3 cruxes define this route. Punch your Golden Ticket of success. Wonderful pockets along this route. Set: Annette Daniels & Jerry Daniels, 13 Apr 2020 FA: Annette Daniels, 22 Apr 2020 | 30m, 14 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ El Jimador
A tricky start leads to some wild climbing up high. An instant classic. | 30m, 13 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Tahone Dulce
The First climb put up on lead at this fantastic crag. Don't let the grade fool you. You are in for a sweet ride! | 30m, 12 | |||
5.10a | ★★★ Comino de la Corona
Tighten your laces for this one. Super tecky start on small feet and hands lead to a super finish. Don't let your guard down! | 30m, 12 | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Cola de escorpion
Fun right leaning ramp leads to an interesting crux up high. Watch out for the sting at the end. | 30m, 11 | |||
Peña de Bernal La Ballena | |||||
5.11- | ★★★ Puerco Bicicletero
FA: L. Cajero | ||||
5.10 | Los Nuevos Ricos
FA: C. Steck | ||||
5.12+ | La Loba Perrucha
FA: Carlos Steck | ||||
5.12 | Malverde
FA: Carlos Steck | ||||
5.12- | Osman
FA: Carlos Steck | ||||
5.12- | Potter
FA: Carlos Steck | ||||
5.12- | Bachar
FA: Carlos Steck | ||||
Proyecto
| |||||
San José Tepuzas El Elefante-Salto Prieto | |||||
5.11 | Vecinos al Acecho
Set: Leslie del Castillo, 2 Oct 2023 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.10 | ★★ Mister vertigo
Armador.- Marciano | ||||
5.12a | ★★★ Sol Naciente
Armador.- Carlos Steck | ||||
5.12 | ★★★ El Rey Del Swing
Armador.- Marciano | ||||
5.12a | ★★ Africa
Armador.- Aequimides Perez | ||||
5.12 | ★★★ Mandela
Armador.- Marciano | ||||
5.11d | ★★ Factor de Riesgo
Armador.- Carlos Steck | ||||
5.11 | ★★★ El elefante
Armador.- Marciano | ||||
5.10- | ★★ Mala Vida
Armador.- Marciano | ||||
5.10- | ★★ Guano
Armador.- Marciano | ||||
5.10 | ★★ Trepadores Pránganas
Armador.- Marciano | ||||
5.11d | ★★★ Dupa Suonia
extrema derecha del elefante la cara con desplome. Set: Odin Sandoval, 14 Mar 2021 FA: Piotr, 21 Mar 2021 | 17m, 8 | |||
San José Tepuzas El Cuervo | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Calle Barreno
Armador.- Luis Cajero & Edson Rios Inicio a Favor y Escalada Fina con agarres pequeños, Tecnica y buen baile de pies. |