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Rancho Chichi'Dho
Some of the most fun and beautiful bouldering and sport climbing in Central Mexico. |
Duty Free
See "Access" in main section. |
Duty Free |
La Ola
See "Access" in main section. |
Duty Free La Ola |
V4
★★ La Ola
Classic highball, first obvious boulder to the right past the plywood door. |
V5
★★★ Surf Arete
Left of La Ola, climb the arete. |
Duty Free |
El Tsunami
See "Access" in main section. |
Duty Free El Tsunami |
V8
★★★ Tsunami
Mega classic. Three fingery and powerful moves to a psichological ending. |
V10
★★★ Surfeando el Tsunami
Sit start of Tsunami. |
Project
Start where the initial right foot of Tsunami is with your left. Hard topout. |
V4
★★★ Maremoto
Sit start in a good undercling and follow the highball arete. |
Duty Free |
The Junkyard
See "Access" in main section. |
Duty Free The Junkyard |
V1
★★ El Peloton
On the first piled boulder you see, go through the "ravine" and sit start on the right of the corner of the right hand boulder. Watch out for the rock behind you. |
V3
★★★ El Novato
On the first piled boulder you see, go through the "ravine" and sit start on the left of the corner of the right hand boulder. |
V5
★★★ La Tropa
On the first piled boulder you see, go through the "ravine" start on crimp right of El Novato. Throw up! |
V6
★★★ La Tropa Sit
Sit start La Tropa on bad underclings. |
V3
★★★ Dia D
To the right of La Tropa, climb the highball. Start on the right side and traverse left to exit the ravine. |
V3
★★ Pinche Guero
Standing start with hands in the square hole. Climb upwards using the arete but staying on the face on the left of it. |
V2
★★ Una Batalla Resbalosa
Across of La Tropa on the other boulder, sit start along the slab to the right of the ravine. |
V5
★★★ Tetris
In the ravine, on the left side side of the ravine when accessing from the entrance from Bernal (or when facing south). On the boulder across from Dia D. Sit start on the left side on big hold. Traverse right, exit the roof and topout. |
V2
★★ Bahia de Cochinos
On the left side of Tetris' boulder, on the next face to the left of Tetris, climb the vertical face. |
V4
★★ Crisis de Misiles
Left of Bahia de Cochinos. Hard slab, which is V6 is you don't use the right hand good hold. |
Duty Free |
La Casa del Tio Chueco
See "Access" in main section. |
Duty Free La Casa del Tio Chueco |
V4
★★ Techito Rompe Dientes
Start on undercling and crimp beneath the roof, and exit straight to a large hold. |
V6
★★★ El Filo del Tio Chueco
Sit start on sloping crimp and go up the edge without using the right hand crimps. |
V5
★★★ El Filo del Tio Derecho
As EFDTC, but use the right hand crimps. |
V3
★★ Te Caes de la Silla
As EFDTC, but go straight through the slab. |
V1
★★ Nanapancha
Sit start right of the slab of TCDLS. Slab out. |
V4
★★ El Lado Obscuro del Corazon
Sit start on the right arete and go through it. |
Project
Sit start on underclings on small crimps. Right of ELODC. |
V3
★★ Agua que Sube
Right of Project. Sit start on the right and traverse left and up. |
Duty Free |
La Armeria
See "Access" in main section. |
Duty Free La Armeria |
V7
★★★ RPG
Following the trail, surround this boulder until you reach the backside and the first route in the middle of the backside is this. Sit start on large block, up and left. |
V5
★★ Shotgun
Same start as RPG, but go up and slightly left. |
V4
★★ Uzzi
Sit start as per RPG, but go right to a confusing topout. Spot the climber! |
V3
★★ Dessert Eagle
To the right of RPG, sit start on sloper and crimp. Powerful. |
V7
★★ Revolver
Same start as DE, but go right on crimps, slopers and long moves. |
V9
★★★ Cumbia sobre el Rio
Go around the corner right of Revolver. Sit start on line of slopers to going left to right to a nice and desperate finish. |
Duty Free |
Travesia Filo
See "Access" in main section. |
Duty Free Travesia Filo |
V3
★★★ Woodstock
Kind of lost in the bushes. Start on the right face and go left of the edge. |
Ciencia Friccion
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion |
La Cineteca
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion La Cineteca |
V3
★★★ Frankenstein
On the slab. Start on two "veins" and go to sloper and slab out. |
V4
★★★ Fuera del Mapa
Sit start left of Frankenstein. Slab out. |
V5
★★★ Danza con Lobos
Sit start on two crimps. Precise and slow. |
V5
★★★ I'm a cyborg, but it's OK
Sit start on big obvious sloper rail. Straight up on strengthy moves on slopers. |
V4
★★★ Blade Runner
Start as per IACBIOK, but traverse left and finish up slab. |
V3
★ El Perro Andaluz
Sit start on right side of arete. Tech it out and slab it out. |
V4
★★ El Tren de la Vida
Sit start right of arete. Powerful then easy. |
V0
★ Los Calientabancas
The entire wall left of ETDLV. Easy. |
Ciencia Friccion |
El Gordo y el Flaco
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion El Gordo y el Flaco |
V4
★★ El Gordo
Sit start on left edge and bad right sidepull. |
V2
★ El Flaco
Line to the right of the rock. |
Ciencia Friccion |
Los Tres Chiflados
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion Los Tres Chiflados |
V3
★★ Moe
Sit start on good hold on left side of boulder and go up the arete. |
V4
★★★ Larry
Sit start on right side of the boulder on line of slopers. |
V4
★★★ Curly
Start as Larry but exit on first right edge. |
Ciencia Friccion |
Si te asustan los topouts
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion Si te asustan los topouts |
V3
★★ Si te asustan los topouts
Only route on boulder. Lowball topout. |
Ciencia Friccion |
Los Voladores de Papantla
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion Los Voladores de Papantla |
V7
★★★ O le brincas o le trincas
Starts on the left hand side of the boulder if your facing from " Si te asustan los topouts." Starts on low lateral hold on right hand and left pinch. |
V4
★★ Rockus-Ass
To the right of "O le brincas o le trincas." Dyno starting on good holds. |
V2
★★ Charito's Love
Start on the right side of the slab, to the right of Rockus-Ass. Use the arete. Easy and fun. |
V5
★★★ Prohibido Caerse
Located to the right of "Rockus-Ass" on the next face of the boulder. Starts on hold with plenty of chalk. |
V4
★ Charito's Love 2
Start the same as Prohibido Caerse, but (instead up up and left) go up and right to the lip and topout. |
V4
★★★ Plumas Voladoras
Located to the right of "Prohibido caerse" at the back of the boulder. Starts either on an undercling or lateral holds. |
V3
★★ Kukulcan
Located to the right of "Plumas Voladoras." Traverse on the lip with heel hooks and slopers. |
Ciencia Friccion |
La Feria
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion La Feria |
V0
★ El Carrusel
Line on the visible face of the boulder from the main trail. Easy. |
V2
★★ Dragoncito
Comienzas en un under izquierdo y un lateral derecho y pies cercanos a la base de la roca, haces una travesia hacia la izquierda por abajo de la panza hasta salir al bloque de carrusel |
V3
★★★ La rueda de la fortuna
Sit start In the middle-left of the right face. Traverse left and topout. |
V2
★★ Carritos Chocones
Sit start in the middle right of the right face. Straight up. |
V3
Toro mécanico
See "Access" in main section. |
V0
★★★ Las sillas voladoras
On the back face of the boulder on arete. |
V0
★ La casa de los sustos
On the left face of the boulder. Easy. |
Ciencia Friccion |
Legal Cactus
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion Legal Cactus |
V3
★★ Legal Cactus
Sit start on a small roof and go straight. |
Ciencia Friccion |
Un Buen Dia
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion Un Buen Dia |
V3
★★★ Ciencia Friccion
First problem you see from main trail. Highball. |
V1
★ Travesia sin Nombre
From CF to the right, traverse. |
V5
★★★ El Gran Calavera
Left of CF, sit start on undercling and right crimp. Highball. |
V5
★★★ Dinamico Calavera
EGC, but as a dyno. |
V?
★★★ Project
Left of EGC on the arete. |
V8
★★★ Un Buen Dia para Volar
To the left of the project arete. Stand start going for slopers on arete to exit on jugs on the right. |
V2
★★★ Triangulo Volador
Left of UBDPV. Sit start towards triangle. Highball. |
V6
★★★ Amoeba Assasin
Sit start left of TV on corner, compression on slopers. |
Ciencia Friccion |
Techito Fun
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion Techito Fun |
V5
★★★ El Techito Fun
Roof! |
Ciencia Friccion |
Porn
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion Porn |
V3
★★★ VIH
Technical and fun problem. |
Ciencia Friccion |
Virus
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion Virus |
V5
★★ Virus
Sit start on undercling and right crimp. Lowball. |
V?
Project
Left of Virus, sit start and exit on slopers. |
V5
★★ Salmonella
Right of Virus, sit start exiting straight up through slopey crimps. |
Ciencia Friccion |
Despena Perros
See "Access" in main section. |
Miniaccesorios
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion Miniaccesorios |
V4
★★ El Mini Accesorios
Sit start on right gaston and left crimp, exit right through triangle. |
Ciencia Friccion |
Zaratustra
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion Zaratustra |
V6
★★★ Zaratustra
Sit start all the way to the right, traversing left and exiting with slopers. Fun. |
Ciencia Friccion |
El Cinturon de Orion
See "Access" in main section. |
Ciencia Friccion El Cinturon de Orion |
V7
★★★ Navi
Leftmost line on the back face of this boulder, start on side undercling on the left, powerful moves on prow to the right. |