Showing all 31 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.11b | ★ Los Tres Chiflados
One pitch climb with three variations (left to right): Larry (5.11b), Moe (5.11a) and Curly (5.10b). FA: Dane Bass & Paul Irby | 27m, 7 | |||
5.10c | ★★ La Pantera Rosa
Start up the slanting chimney then face above to the groove/crack. Same anchor as Jesus Amarillo. There is some variance in the grade of the climb -- Ed says 10d, Dane says 10b, and Frank says 10c. FA: Dane Bass & Paul Irby, 2003 | 30m, 7 | |||
5.10a | ★ Jesus Amarillo
Climbs the edge to the right of La Pantera Rosa, then up some face to an orange/white patch, then trends left to the anchor shared with La Pantera Rosa. FA: Dane Bass & Ralph Vega, 2004 | 30m, 9 | |||
5.12d | 23 Diablos
Needs a 70m rope. Over bolted, it can be easily aid climbed using the bolt ladder at the crux. | 43m, 19 | |||
5.11c | ★★ 2 Dead Chipmunks and 1 Dead Beaver
Needs a 70m rope. | 40m, 16 | |||
5.11b | ★★ 3 R System
| 30m, 11 | |||
5.11a | ★ Rat Bastard
Just left of Estrellita on the grey slab to anchors right. FA: Cort McElroy & Mike Jones | 26m, 7 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Estrellita
1
5.9
2
5.9
3
5.9
4
5.8
5
Class 3
6
5.5
7
5.6
8
5.10a
9
5.9
10
5.10b
11
5.10a
12
5.7
This is the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree. There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find. The climb is part way up from the carved out "smooth rock stairs" about ~30m from the base on the left side of the canyon (pretty close to the base). Starts in a left facing corner. Rarely climbed in any of the 5.11 variations, just isn't classic at this level. Hard variations are: Pitch 3. (5.11b) Go straight up (rather than angling rightwards), then traverse right to the anchor. Pitch 4. (5.11a) Go straight up, rather than left traverse.
Linking pitch 3 & 4 can cause awful rope drag. Linking 6 & 7 needs a 70m rope or simul-climbing by belayer on easy (5.0) terrain. Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon. FA: Ed Wright, Craig McCrudden & Ismael Garza - 2000 | 370m, 12, 12 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Pacheco Poder
Starts just left of the small tree when you reach the flatter area hiking up. Passes right of the dead palm tree trunk and goes up to the yellow / grey block on top. | 29m, 10 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Mr. Fluffer's Wild Ride
Starts right behind the small tree where the terrain becomes flatter. Finishes in the nice dihedral. | 36m, 14 | |||
5.10d | ★ Marklar
Anchor is just below the tree. | 28m, 9 | |||
5.11c | ★ Planet Marklar
Starts left of the crack with the tree in it. Good rests but with multiple cruxes. | 27m, 11 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Marklar Man
Goes up the grey slab with the small white tufa at bolt 2. this one will test your slab climbing skills. | 27m, 7 | |||
5.10c | ★ Take Me to Your Marklar
Runs through the brown patch 2 bolts before the anchor. | 27m, 9 | |||
5.10c/d | ★★ Pink Harmonica
Tricky..! Shares anchor with "Lickety Split" to the right | 24m, 9 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Lickety Split
Starts behind the small tree, first bolt is right above the crack. Heads right after bolt 5 onto the yellowish / grey flake and back left after 2 more bolts. | 27m, 9 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Send It Pink Pocket Express
Trends right passed the corner at about 2/3 of the height. | 25m, 13 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Machismo
Starts just at the big block, finishes on yellow rock. | 25m, 10 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Landscaping
Just where the trail hits the wall again after a bigger tree. Has a name plate. Short and crimpy. | 18m, 7 | |||
5.12a | Ulack
Shares last 2 bolts and anchor with "Landscaping" | 16m, 7 | |||
★★ Pakal
FA: Miguel Guerra & Antonio González, 2019 | |||||
Xibalba
FA: Miguel Guerra & Antonio González, 2019 | |||||
5.12+ | ★★ Inventando que sueño
A new challenging multipitch route in Las Estrellas Canyon. Grounded up by Alvaro Peiro during the season 22-23. FA by Alvaro Peiro and Matthew Moss in nov 22
L1: 30m/12- L2: 25m/12b/c L3: 20m/12- L4: 35m/10d L5: 30m/12d L6: 35m/12b L7: 20m/11b L8: 25m/12b/c After R8, climb 3 meters of 4th class to get to Estrellita’s summit. Set: Alvaro Peiro, 30 May 2023 FA: Alvaro Peiro & Matthew Moss, 30 Nov 2023 | 230m, 8, 20 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Curse of the Furry Beast
Follows the yellowish crack and flakes up through the small roof. A side pull feast in similar style as Fear of Flying. | 26m, 11 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Channelize your Hatred
Starts just right of ”Curse of the Furry Beast” and passes right of the roof. | 27m, 7 | |||
5.11b | ★ Tobillos Rotos
| ||||
5.12a | ★★ Thunderkiss
First pitch 11 bolts to rap anchor. | 290m, 9 | |||
5.12b | Cumpleanos
| ||||
5.12a | Fully Engaged
Shares anchor with "Kung Pao Pupert". | 26m | |||
5.10d | ★★ Kung Pao Pupert
| 12 | |||
5.11d | Good Kung Fu
FA: Kevin Mahoney |
Showing all 31 routes.