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Jilotepec

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 53
  • Ascents: 2,527
  • Aka: Peñas de Dexcani

Seasonality

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Summary

Conglomerate! Enjoy the tiny pepples for cruxes and grippy volcanic stone for foot holds. Mexico's hardest sport climbing and a beautiful place to be. 2 hours north of Mexico city.

Description

Slabs, vertical climbs and steep overhangs - all a few minutes away from your car and located in a nice forest. Many sectors are shaded by trees. The crag is located at about 2700m ASL, making it a great climbing area even when it is hot.

Weekends can be quite busy, as many climbers arrive from surrounding regions. Even moreso if you add all the families coming for picnics and hiking in the park.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmY4Mv5JWXA&t=448s

Access issues

Park entrance as of 2023 is 25 pesos per person, per day. This fee includes camping access.

Approach

Find your way to Jilotepec and from there drive up and through Dexcani Bajo and Dexcani Alto. Pass the soccer field of Dexcani Alto and pass the gate of the park (keeping left). Drive up a steep road to reach the parking. You can see the first sectors from your car.

Where to stay

Camp at El Huevo. Or stay in Jilotepec.

History

History timeline chart

Lots of drilled holds from the French, and tons of history from the 90's. Mexico's hardest sport climbing!

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Sun 16 Apr
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