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Upper Crag Ait Saoun

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 1
10

Description

Trad single pitch climbing on volcanic rock. Route height 30 to 40m. Sector left of the rock cleft exposure N and sector right of the rock cleft exposure NW.

Access issues inherited from Ait Saoun

Parking is located near a small plantation beside the river. So far there are no issues parking there.

Approach

From the parking place (GPS30.73334, -6.65540) head up to the main wall. From there follow the wall southeast until reaching its plateau. Now on the plateau back to the Upper Crag (GPS30.72821, -6.65319). The Upper Crag is visible from the parking area above the main wall and will help you to find the correct place.

Descent notes

Walk down. Use the rock cleft in the center of the crag.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the wide crack to the ledge, then first crack straight up to ledge and traverse right, up a left trending ramp and crack to the top.

FA: M.S. + S.S., 8 Mar 2023

Slab up to roof, crack right of roof to the big ledge, from there Route Nr. 1 or Nr. 3 to top.

FA: M.S. + S.S., 8 Mar 2023

Up slab with pockets under small roof, up the shallow groove (upper part with plants in groove), straight up over small wall to the big ledge on the left side, from ledge to cracks trending right to top.

FA: M.S. + S.S., 8 Mar 2023

Slab up to small pinnacle, straight up to small roof, upwards right trending to s-crack left of a roof, straight up to top on easy ground.

FA: M.S. + S.S., 8 Mar 2023

Up the pillar right of big crack, shift into big crack up to loose rock, left up a small wall into groove up to roof, straight up small wall to top.

FA: M.S. + S.S., 8 Mar 2023

Up the chimney right of the pillar to ledge, up to 2nd crack on the right side of roof to ledge, right up big crack up to top.

FA: M.S. + S.S., 8 Mar 2023

Straight up wall with pockets to ledge (bold), climb small wall, follow groove trending left, crack up to top.

FA: M.S. + S.S., 8 Mar 2023

Chimney up and then left onto wall with pockets, follow cracks up to top.

FA: M.S. + S.S., 8 Mar 2023

Follow the cracks up to the top.

FA: M.S. + S.S., 7 Mar 2023

Take pillar up to small roof, continue up the crack in the right corner to roof, left onto pillar and straight up the crack to top.

FA: M.S. + S.S., 7 Mar 2023

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Thu 22 Jun
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