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Kakani

  • Grade context: FR

Description

Kakani is (so far) the closest possible bouldering area near Kathmandu. It is still in the making of and in need of route cleaning and developing. Approach is a slippery and steep downhill. Ask directions and company from Astrek Climbing Wall in Thamel (http://www.astrekclimbingwall.com/).

Looking to scrub some moss, stumble through a thorny jungle and get a FA? Well this is the place for you... that is if you have some time to kill in between treks or during your busy life in Kathmandu. It is unclear how much rock is in the discovered area but it looks as though there will be a few multi-pitch routes as well as numerous boulder problems in the coming years. Like all places in Nepal the routes will be bolted but that might prove to be a challenge as the sandstone tends to be a little weak in some areas (so climb with the intention of flashing or you might loose crucial foot holds if you repeat attempts.)

Picture. Video.

Approach

(27.822112, 85.26675)

Take the road out of Balaju bypass north passing Nagarjun forest reserve entrance, Tien Piple village and then head up the ridge towards Shivapuri National Park once you reach the village in the pass between valleys. You will know you are in the right place once you pass an army training camp and arrive in Kakani. The new area is on the north side of the ridge on a trail that heads down across from the Kakani guest house. you will reach a clifftop where you can either rap down 30+ meters or take your pad and hike around to the right.

Routes

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Grade Route

(27.822112, 85.26675) V5+ at mountainproject, 7A at 27crags. Crimps, a jug, a sloper and a pinch culminating in a big move up over a roof. Top out is over the roof but it just might turn into an entire pitch climb in the future. Location: Center at the base of the Kakani wall.

#SD under the lip with a right hand crimp. Move up to a shelf and keep moving to the second shelf and finally the top out. LOcation: Head down the winding trail from the Kakani main wall passing a few small boulders until a clearing with an obviously cleaned face on the left.

Kakani lies 29 km northwest of Kathmandu on the road to Trisuli. From the hill-top, excellent views can be had of Ganesh Himal, Himalchuli, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Gauri Shanker. This has one small climbing rock with 6 routes. The rock is only about 20 meters, but quite challenging. There is also an outdoor climbing wall in the Mountaineering park nearby.

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